Both my son and wife have a 2014 Honda CRV with the 2.4. Change oil & filter at 5000 miles. I use Honda OEM filters, Kendall 0-W20 full syn for the oil. Both cars run great with no problems. Wife car has about 45,000 miles while my son has about 60,000 miles.
Recommendation for Oil & filter for 2015 Honda CR-V SE
- Thread starter trino15
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted by Danh
Originally Posted by trino15
Originally Posted by Danh
Keep in mind that the 2015 CRV had a DI engine that is prone to fuel dilution. This tendency is worse in cold weather/short trip driving conditions. So whatever oil you use, watch for increasing levels on the dipstick and change oil more frequently the the Maintenance Minder suggests.
I have this CRV and UOAs of 0w-20 have shown >5% fuel and 100C viscosity in the low-mid 6s cSt after a starting point of 8.8 or so. If warranty isn't a concern you might consider a xx w-30 to preserve viscosity. In any event, any SN/SN Plus full synthetic would work fine but imho frequent oil changes are much more important than oil brand.
To make frequent changes easier, take advantage of Honda's recommendation to change the oil filter at every other oil change and invest in a oil extractor. Makes a filterless oil change a snap.
And for those that continue to bash CVTs, please point me to a single example in any forum of a Honda CVT failure.
Hi Danh, previous owner used to change oil between MM 10-15%. In my case, changing oil at what point of MM (e.g. 20%, 30% etc) you think will help preventing fuel dilution?
It's hard to know the optimal point, but fwiw I have never let mine go below 60%. This may seem too ofen, but my UOAs come back without excessive wear metals (I.e. 1.25-1.5 ppm of iron/1,000 miles), so maybe that strategy is working.
"mightymousetech" used to post here and was an Acura technician at a Canadian dealership. His opinion was that the Honda/Acura Maintenance Minder didn't penalize oil life enough for short trips. Based on what I've seen the MM logic and resulting OCIs didn't seem to change when Honda adopted DI, so he may have a point.
I don't mind changing the oil at 60% but I would also like to get a UOA of my present oil. Do you know which lab would be good for that in Canada?
Do you think using TGMO 0W-20 OR IDEMITSU ZEPRO 0W-20 may help in terms of reducing metals wearing?
Sorry for asking you a lot of questions. I have very little knowledge about automobile and fuel related things. But reading through this forum I'm learning
Originally Posted by trino15
Originally Posted by Danh
Keep in mind that the 2015 CRV had a DI engine that is prone to fuel dilution. This tendency is worse in cold weather/short trip driving conditions. So whatever oil you use, watch for increasing levels on the dipstick and change oil more frequently the the Maintenance Minder suggests.
I have this CRV and UOAs of 0w-20 have shown >5% fuel and 100C viscosity in the low-mid 6s cSt after a starting point of 8.8 or so. If warranty isn't a concern you might consider a xx w-30 to preserve viscosity. In any event, any SN/SN Plus full synthetic would work fine but imho frequent oil changes are much more important than oil brand.
To make frequent changes easier, take advantage of Honda's recommendation to change the oil filter at every other oil change and invest in a oil extractor. Makes a filterless oil change a snap.
And for those that continue to bash CVTs, please point me to a single example in any forum of a Honda CVT failure.
Hi Danh, previous owner used to change oil between MM 10-15%. In my case, changing oil at what point of MM (e.g. 20%, 30% etc) you think will help preventing fuel dilution?
It's hard to know the optimal point, but fwiw I have never let mine go below 60%. This may seem too ofen, but my UOAs come back without excessive wear metals (I.e. 1.25-1.5 ppm of iron/1,000 miles), so maybe that strategy is working.
"mightymousetech" used to post here and was an Acura technician at a Canadian dealership. His opinion was that the Honda/Acura Maintenance Minder didn't penalize oil life enough for short trips. Based on what I've seen the MM logic and resulting OCIs didn't seem to change when Honda adopted DI, so he may have a point.
I don't mind changing the oil at 60% but I would also like to get a UOA of my present oil. Do you know which lab would be good for that in Canada?
Do you think using TGMO 0W-20 OR IDEMITSU ZEPRO 0W-20 may help in terms of reducing metals wearing?
Sorry for asking you a lot of questions. I have very little knowledge about automobile and fuel related things. But reading through this forum I'm learning
Originally Posted by sgtrockjoe
Both my son and wife have a 2014 Honda CRV with the 2.4. Change oil & filter at 5000 miles. I use Honda OEM filters, Kendall 0-W20 full syn for the oil. Both cars run great with no problems. Wife car has about 45,000 miles while my son has about 60,000 miles.
The CVT and DI probably started in CR-V from 2015.
Both my son and wife have a 2014 Honda CRV with the 2.4. Change oil & filter at 5000 miles. I use Honda OEM filters, Kendall 0-W20 full syn for the oil. Both cars run great with no problems. Wife car has about 45,000 miles while my son has about 60,000 miles.
The CVT and DI probably started in CR-V from 2015.
Originally Posted by Astro_Guy
Will do! The plan is to change at 8K, matching the Blackstone universal averages for this engine. We should be there by the first week of June. Allow another week for the lab report to come back.
Hopefully this time you will get better numbers because of the mileage difference.
Will do! The plan is to change at 8K, matching the Blackstone universal averages for this engine. We should be there by the first week of June. Allow another week for the lab report to come back.
Hopefully this time you will get better numbers because of the mileage difference.
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
My 2.4 D.I. Hyundai now has almost 3K and not even a hint of fuel smell anywhere. Dipstick-end smells 100% oil and I darn-near got some oil up-my-nose taking a good whiff up-close.
No rise on the dipstick either. Same full-level spot on the dipstick since new.
Oil color has changed from clear to amber brown. I will likely go for my one free oil change in the next couple weeks and yank that one within weeks. I want to run full synthetic 5w30, not synblend 5w20. I will keep the new dealer oil filter on. But I may loosen it - then re-tighten it to remove some oil in the pump lines.
Which oil thickness are you using now?
My 2.4 D.I. Hyundai now has almost 3K and not even a hint of fuel smell anywhere. Dipstick-end smells 100% oil and I darn-near got some oil up-my-nose taking a good whiff up-close.
No rise on the dipstick either. Same full-level spot on the dipstick since new.
Oil color has changed from clear to amber brown. I will likely go for my one free oil change in the next couple weeks and yank that one within weeks. I want to run full synthetic 5w30, not synblend 5w20. I will keep the new dealer oil filter on. But I may loosen it - then re-tighten it to remove some oil in the pump lines.
Which oil thickness are you using now?
Originally Posted by trino15
Originally Posted by Danh
Originally Posted by trino15
Originally Posted by Danh
Keep in mind that the 2015 CRV had a DI engine that is prone to fuel dilution. This tendency is worse in cold weather/short trip driving conditions. So whatever oil you use, watch for increasing levels on the dipstick and change oil more frequently the the Maintenance Minder suggests.
I have this CRV and UOAs of 0w-20 have shown >5% fuel and 100C viscosity in the low-mid 6s cSt after a starting point of 8.8 or so. If warranty isn't a concern you might consider a xx w-30 to preserve viscosity. In any event, any SN/SN Plus full synthetic would work fine but imho frequent oil changes are much more important than oil brand.
To make frequent changes easier, take advantage of Honda's recommendation to change the oil filter at every other oil change and invest in a oil extractor. Makes a filterless oil change a snap.
And for those that continue to bash CVTs, please point me to a single example in any forum of a Honda CVT failure.
Hi Danh, previous owner used to change oil between MM 10-15%. In my case, changing oil at what point of MM (e.g. 20%, 30% etc) you think will help preventing fuel dilution?
It's hard to know the optimal point, but fwiw I have never let mine go below 60%. This may seem too ofen, but my UOAs come back without excessive wear metals (I.e. 1.25-1.5 ppm of iron/1,000 miles), so maybe that strategy is working.
"mightymousetech" used to post here and was an Acura technician at a Canadian dealership. His opinion was that the Honda/Acura Maintenance Minder didn't penalize oil life enough for short trips. Based on what I've seen the MM logic and resulting OCIs didn't seem to change when Honda adopted DI, so he may have a point.
I don't mind changing the oil at 60% but I would also like to get a UOA of my present oil. Do you know which lab would be good for that in Canada?
Do you think using TGMO 0W-20 OR IDEMITSU ZEPRO 0W-20 may help in terms of reducing metals wearing?
Sorry for asking you a lot of questions. I have very little knowledge about automobile and fuel related things. But reading through this forum I'm learning
Don't know about labs in Canada, but Polaris/Oil Analyzers, Inc in the U.S. does a good job. Look for a lab that measures fuel dilution by gas chromotography, like Polaris.
I really don't think the brand of Oil matters that much. Idemitsu is a fine choice, but so are Mobil1, Pennzoil Platinum, et al..
Originally Posted by Danh
Originally Posted by trino15
Originally Posted by Danh
Keep in mind that the 2015 CRV had a DI engine that is prone to fuel dilution. This tendency is worse in cold weather/short trip driving conditions. So whatever oil you use, watch for increasing levels on the dipstick and change oil more frequently the the Maintenance Minder suggests.
I have this CRV and UOAs of 0w-20 have shown >5% fuel and 100C viscosity in the low-mid 6s cSt after a starting point of 8.8 or so. If warranty isn't a concern you might consider a xx w-30 to preserve viscosity. In any event, any SN/SN Plus full synthetic would work fine but imho frequent oil changes are much more important than oil brand.
To make frequent changes easier, take advantage of Honda's recommendation to change the oil filter at every other oil change and invest in a oil extractor. Makes a filterless oil change a snap.
And for those that continue to bash CVTs, please point me to a single example in any forum of a Honda CVT failure.
Hi Danh, previous owner used to change oil between MM 10-15%. In my case, changing oil at what point of MM (e.g. 20%, 30% etc) you think will help preventing fuel dilution?
It's hard to know the optimal point, but fwiw I have never let mine go below 60%. This may seem too ofen, but my UOAs come back without excessive wear metals (I.e. 1.25-1.5 ppm of iron/1,000 miles), so maybe that strategy is working.
"mightymousetech" used to post here and was an Acura technician at a Canadian dealership. His opinion was that the Honda/Acura Maintenance Minder didn't penalize oil life enough for short trips. Based on what I've seen the MM logic and resulting OCIs didn't seem to change when Honda adopted DI, so he may have a point.
I don't mind changing the oil at 60% but I would also like to get a UOA of my present oil. Do you know which lab would be good for that in Canada?
Do you think using TGMO 0W-20 OR IDEMITSU ZEPRO 0W-20 may help in terms of reducing metals wearing?
Sorry for asking you a lot of questions. I have very little knowledge about automobile and fuel related things. But reading through this forum I'm learning
Don't know about labs in Canada, but Polaris/Oil Analyzers, Inc in the U.S. does a good job. Look for a lab that measures fuel dilution by gas chromotography, like Polaris.
I really don't think the brand of Oil matters that much. Idemitsu is a fine choice, but so are Mobil1, Pennzoil Platinum, et al..
Buy a 0W-20 full synthetic SN/SN+ that's on sale at whatever store you go to, pair it with a Fram Ultra filter and don't worry about it. You could run sand in the crankcase and that car would still do at least 100k.
Last edited:
The K24 is one of the best engines ever made. See my signature. It got to over 500k on bulk oil changes at the dealership. I've used lots of different brands. Synthetic, high mileage, conventional, etc. and it doesn't skip a beat. Buy what's on sale or has a rebate, as long as it has the current API specifications on it. It doesn't require anything exotic other than it being a 0W-20.
Originally Posted by littlehulkster
Buy a 0W-20 full synthetic SN/SN+ that's on sale at whatever store you go to, pair it with a Fram Ultra filter and don't worry about it. You could run sand in the crankcase and that car would still do at least 100k.
Thanks littlehulkster!
Buy a 0W-20 full synthetic SN/SN+ that's on sale at whatever store you go to, pair it with a Fram Ultra filter and don't worry about it. You could run sand in the crankcase and that car would still do at least 100k.
Thanks littlehulkster!
Originally Posted by ThirdeYe
The K24 is one of the best engines ever made. See my signature. It got to over 500k on bulk oil changes at the dealership. I've used lots of different brands. Synthetic, high mileage, conventional, etc. and it doesn't skip a beat. Buy what's on sale or has a rebate, as long as it has the current API specifications on it. It doesn't require anything exotic other than it being a 0W-20.
Originally Posted by ThirdeYe
The K24 is one of the best engines ever made. See my signature. It got to over 500k on bulk oil changes at the dealership. I've used lots of different brands. Synthetic, high mileage, conventional, etc. and it doesn't skip a beat. Buy what's on sale or has a rebate, as long as it has the current API specifications on it. It doesn't require anything exotic other than it being a 0W-20.
Thanks ThirdeYe!
The K24 is one of the best engines ever made. See my signature. It got to over 500k on bulk oil changes at the dealership. I've used lots of different brands. Synthetic, high mileage, conventional, etc. and it doesn't skip a beat. Buy what's on sale or has a rebate, as long as it has the current API specifications on it. It doesn't require anything exotic other than it being a 0W-20.
Originally Posted by ThirdeYe
The K24 is one of the best engines ever made. See my signature. It got to over 500k on bulk oil changes at the dealership. I've used lots of different brands. Synthetic, high mileage, conventional, etc. and it doesn't skip a beat. Buy what's on sale or has a rebate, as long as it has the current API specifications on it. It doesn't require anything exotic other than it being a 0W-20.
Thanks ThirdeYe!
- Status
Similar threads
- Question