New Motorcycle Break-in

[BigJohn]

Bike is a brand new, Kawasaki Versys-X 300


I feel a little stupid starting this thread, as I have read many threads on this topic..... but this is the first.....new bike that I have purchased since 2007.

What's the thought from the collective on the break-in?????

For the first 500 miles....I am guessing....keep the RPM's at 75% from redline....

And..... dump the factory fill at 200 miles. (drain the oil filter but screw it back on)

Then, dump the 2nd fill at 1,500 miles and replace the filter.


Manual calls for 10W40..... I will be using standard Shell Rotella 15W40, as this is a shared, sump engine and I want the beauty of the JASO rating.

........

 

[SZR48207]

Just go by the manual procedure for RPM break in, leave the factory fill oil until the 1st scheduled maintenance interval. I doubt you will see any perceptible gain by doing early oil change.

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

I posted several months ago, SportRider or Motorcyclist took two CBR300s or whatever, and rode one according to the manual for the break-in, and beat the brakes off the other one from the word "Congrats on your new purchase!". The post-break in testing showed there was no statistical difference between the cranking compression, leakdown, or power. Just ride it however you would normally; having been off a bike for 12 years, it's probably not likely you're ready to scrape knee pucks or practice standing donuts on it anytime soon, so it will be just fine.

 

[Linctex]

Originally Posted by BigJohn

For the first 500 miles....I am guessing....keep the RPM's at 75% from redline....
And..... dump the factory fill at 200 miles. (drain the oil filter but screw it back on)
Then, dump the 2nd fill at 1,500 miles and replace the filter.
........


There's no need to dump at 200 miles. Run that oil till it's nice dark brown & call it good.

Is that bike geared really low? It might be hard running around at 40 MPH if you are watching the Revs

 

[BigJohn]

Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo
I posted several months ago, SportRider or Motorcyclist took two CBR300s or whatever, and rode one according to the manual for the break-in, and beat the brakes off the other one from the word "Congrats on your new purchase!". The post-break in testing showed there was no statistical difference between the cranking compression, leakdown, or power. Just ride it however you would normally; having been off a bike for 12 years, it's probably not likely you're ready to scrape knee pucks or practice standing donuts on it anytime soon, so it will be just fine.



Thats great info........ thanks

 

[ARCOgraphite]

I would change the filter after 10 hours and top off the oil. I would stay far away from redline the first 500-1000miles , especially if its near 10000rpm, but use full throttle as needed or wanted.

Be safe a lot of completely inattentive drivers out there.

 

[Trav]

Dump it at 100, 300, 500 and 1K miles. The shared sump is the reason, the gears and dogs, clutch basket and steels will shed a lot of metal early and can cause excess wear. I know it sound like a lot of oil changes and it is but this is not a car engine (some old stuff shared the sump like the Mini). These are hardened steel particles not soft metals for the most part.
Regardless of modern manufacturing techniques and improved cleanliness parts have to match each other and that creates particles.

 

[pb]

i have a ex300. replace that filter, dont just screw with it. i use m14t. respect the manufacturers break in, yes it is geared low but do your best. my uoa shows fuel dilution concerns with the factory tune.
and assume cagers dont see you.

 

[AZjeff]

What to do, follow the manual or 4 OCs in the first 1K miles? Would love to see the oil strained somehow to see what you catch whatever you decide to do.

 

[Bonz]

Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo
I posted several months ago, SportRider or Motorcyclist took two CBR300s or whatever, and rode one according to the manual for the break-in, and beat the brakes off the other one from the word "Congrats on your new purchase!". The post-break in testing showed there was no statistical difference between the cranking compression, leakdown, or power. Just ride it however you would normally; having been off a bike for 12 years, it's probably not likely you're ready to scrape knee pucks or practice standing donuts on it anytime soon, so it will be just fine.


Yes, it is the March/April "Motorcyclist" I received last week that has the above CB300F "break-in" test. They took the two bikes, rebuilt each engine measuring piston diameter, ring end gap, cylinder diameter and valve clearances as well as what is mentioned in the above post about compression, leak down, power. No difference in actual parts dimensions before/after between the engines either.

Originally Posted by Trav
Dump it at 100, 300, 500 and 1K miles. The shared sump is the reason, the gears and dogs, clutch basket and steels will shed a lot of metal early and can cause excess wear. I know it sound like a lot of oil changes and it is but this is not a car engine (some old stuff shared the sump like the Mini). These are hardened steel particles not soft metals for the most part.
Regardless of modern manufacturing techniques and improved cleanliness parts have to match each other and that creates particles.


Oil filter is there because it filters oil... dumping filtered oil that often simply throws it away. I don't know how many motorcycles I have bought used, it is many. Would safely wager not a one of them was broken in with 4 oil drains/fills by the original owners in the first 1,000 miles. No issues internally with any engines (40 years old in the case of the XS1100's I have owned and sold) based on oil consumption from "excess wear". This ritualistic multi-dumping of oil doesn't do a thing to increase longevity of the engine.

To the OP, you can safely change oil and filter around whatever mileage the maker suggests. Ride it comfortably to get used to the bike and the braking/handling/power delivery from a safety perspective but don't worry about running it up the rpm scale as you start to put the miles on it.

 

[Trav]

The oil filter only filters oil after it has been through the pump, there are a lot of moving parts that receive splash oiling just because of all the parts moving in it in the bottom of the crankcase.
I found that procedure in a performance magazine years ago and have used it a few times. How much difference it makes I have no idea but I can tell you after 240K Km the CBR 1000F had zero streaking on the bearings or cam holders when I pulled it apart to replace the stretched cam chain.

Dino oil is cheap enough I thought it was worth it. After 1K I swapped it to synthetic. The average lifespan of that engine is about 100K, I was at 240K and it was still in great shape. I cant prove it was the good break in or the oil I used in it but it cant be disproved either.

 

[CT8]

Trav how many people giving advice have seen the insides of an engine?

 

[Bonz]

Trav, great care and feeding of the CBR1000F! I love that old style bike, nothing finer.

I sure don't want to be contrary, as Trav is correct about oil being thrown around in the lower end from splash lubrication and particles are in it at some point. The thing that damages lower end is lack of lubrication. I would love to hear from anyone with an issue where a particle from manufacture got in and ruined any lower end parts or caused the cams to show wear on their saddles and caps as the oil is filtered before reaching the top end. (cam saddle/cap wear- is what I think you are talking about when changing the cam chain).

Folks realize the engine is started and the tranny run through the gears on a rolling road/dyno before it is ever put in the crate and shipped over the ocean to the dealer, right? I believe that oil is drained at the factory and the dealer fills it when assembled for sale.

 

[CT8]

I would be worried about the heat generated by sustained Wide open throttle rather that running up the RPMs momentarily during break in.

 

[CT8]

Are you trying to tell us that the engine and trans are broke it after the dyno run?. Oil filter bypass .

 

[Trav]

Yes mine was a grey market import from Holland delivered in Germany, I got it still in the crate with no fluids in it so I treated as such. I see your point.
Grey market was common in those times because it was illegal to sell a bike with more than 100HP in Germany but not illegal to bring one in that you owned. It was legal to open it up if sold in Germany but it was an expensive process with all sorts of paperwork. Thankfully those days are gone.

In the manual it has a 100km and 1K oik change in Km so 60 and 600 miles and keep the RPM under 4K RPM which was not easy to do. That was a good bike.

 

[JeePing]

Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo
I posted several months ago, SportRider or Motorcyclist took two CBR300s or whatever, and rode one according to the manual for the break-in, and beat the brakes off the other one from the word "Congrats on your new purchase!". The post-break in testing showed there was no statistical difference between the cranking compression, leakdown, or power. Just ride it however you would normally; having been off a bike for 12 years, it's probably not likely you're ready to scrape knee pucks or practice standing donuts on it anytime soon, so it will be just fine.


That was a retard test, complete joke. People, for the love of God, do what engineers who designed the bike tell you to.

OP, follow the manual and you will do just fine.


Here is a good video regarding break in

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LiNsEsU8pGs

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

Jeep, it's obvious you have no reading comprehension. Most importantly, I pointed out the fact that since the OP hasn't ridden in over a DECADE, he will likely need time to get reacquainted and dust off his riding skills which will likely match with the break-in period. And, even though you're entitled to your opinion, it doesn't invalidate the test results just because you think they were retarded. In that instance, it was essentially proven that those engines were machined and assembled well enough there was no issue with how it was broken in.

If you roll your line of thinking out across the board, you should probably just stop coming here, because it appears you think that any "off-label" usage is "retarded"... so out-of-grade oils, larger filters, bypass filters... are all retarded in your eyes??

 

[ragtoplvr]

you are breaking in an entire bike, Engine, transmission, brakes and every other component. Sure, a engine might benefit from a spirited break-in. How about the transmission gears and if present final drive gears. How about the clutch, and then the brakes. There are high spots on the brakes, and on the clutch. You can glaze the high spots, and have reduced brake performance for a long time until it corrects. I personally make a manual transmission noisy for life buy towing too soon. It never failed, it was noisy for life. I heard it happen. I say follow to some extent the recommended break in.

Rod

 

[JeePing]

Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo
Jeep, it's obvious you have no reading comprehension. Most importantly, I pointed out the fact that since the OP hasn't ridden in over a DECADE, he will likely need time to get reacquainted and dust off his riding skills which will likely match with the break-in period. And, even though you're entitled to your opinion, it doesn't invalidate the test results just because you think they were retarded. In that instance, it was essentially proven that those engines were machined and assembled well enough there was no issue with how it was broken in.

If you roll your line of thinking out across the board, you should probably just stop coming here, because it appears you think that any "off-label" usage is "retarded"... so out-of-grade oils, larger filters, bypass filters... are all retarded in your eyes??



Those tests are a joke and should not be toted as solid evidenced, there is a lot of misinformation already out there and you are helping spread it.
Stay on topic.