Cheap German cars

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Originally Posted by SirTanon
Heck, in that price range, why not consider a commonly available sedan like a Taurus? Parts are everywhere, and cheap, plus they're reasonably easy to work on.

I don't know how close this is to you, but there's this:

https://springfield.craigslist.org/cto/d/rockaway-beach-2007-ford-taurus-sel/6822579961.html

Right in your price range, and I bet you could talk them down a fair bit.


That 2007 was the last year of the Taurus. But the 2005 was the last year of the 200hp V6 Duratec, later years only had the weaker Vulcan engine. It's easier to find a Sable LS that had the Duratec and the climate control/leather.
 
The Vulcan might not be as powerful as the Duratec, but it is also less prone to problems... so it's a trade-off. Still has enough power for the car, IMHO, especially commuting, etc..

Do I prefer the Duratec? Yes - my '03 Sable had one - but I also had an '01 Taurus with the Vulcan, and it was fine.
 
Originally Posted by SirTanon
The Vulcan might not be as powerful as the Duratec, but it is also less prone to problems... so it's a trade-off. Still has enough power for the car, IMHO, especially commuting, etc..

Do I prefer the Duratec? Yes - my '03 Sable had one - but I also had an '01 Taurus with the Vulcan, and it was fine.


I never had specific problems with the Duratec, it was the transmission going or more specifically the torque converter going that caused me to dump it. I thought the power was adequate with the Duratec and never really drove a Vulcan. There were a few things that made it more difficult like the alternator was more difficult to get to on a Duratec than Vulcan. Regardless, Duratec didn't really have anything major wrong with it over a Vulcan and at current prices, they're probably about the same so get a Duratec over a Vulcan if you can find one.
 
The Humble Mechanic just published a very pertinent podcast. He speaks of an Audi A8 but I would apply it to any luxury car out of warranty. Skip to 5:30 for the gist.

"I am a firm believer in the most expensive vehicle you can own is a cheap used luxury car."
 
Originally Posted by Brons2
Originally Posted by BMWTurboDzl
In addition to what others have said here's a quick laundry list of common problems with the E46.

Rear sub-frame failure (The sheet metal is too thin where the rear suspension is bolted to the body. It cracks and there's a repair/reinforcement kit available. IIRC there was also a class action settlement.
Window regulator failure
Broken clips for the sunshade (i.e. little trim piece which slides under the sunroof to block out the sun).
Oil sending unit; Oil would travel past the sensor into the wires and cause an intermittent oil light.
VANOS seals (I believe) & VANOS solenoids (easy fix(
Oil Consumption
DISA valve.
PCV blockage causing oil consumption.
Final stage resistor failure.
Cam position sensor failure.
Coolant expansion tank failure. Coolant hoses are probably due for replacement as well. Car is almost 20 yrs old afterall.



You forgot:

THE REPLACEMENT PARTS ARE 2X OR 3X AS EXPENSIVE AS NON-PREMIUM MAKES' PARTS.

Hope this helps.

OP, run far far away, unless you're able to walk or bike when it breaks.

[edit] I've spent many a Saturday morning on the garage floor under an old E30, had a couple of them. And they were among the more reliable ones, which isn't saying much.

Never again.

No they are not!
 
Cheap German car = MK4 VW. Plentiful after 15+ years in the rust belt. A cheap car from any make and same year is going to be hard pressed to beat the interior quality and fuel economy of a 2.0/5spd. City Golfs/Jettas made on the MK4 platform are the ones to get, they are sweet.

If you are wrenching, get the BMW. Old euro cars are for enthusiasts who are willing to DIY.
 
Originally Posted by ram_man
Hey everyone, so I am going to buy a cheap car around $2,500 for me to drive my girlfriend has to drive to Indiana once a month and 70 miles to work so I am going to let her have the dart as her full time daily. I have come across a few early 2000's BMW's with manual transmissions around 150,000 miles they look decent as well. Condition wise. I'm scared of them mostly because I don't know much about them . What is your thoughts on German cars particularly older BMW's? What should be watched out for? Or should they be avoided all together.

Here is the thing, 150,000 miles for E46 is not a lot. But, you need to check some stuff. First of all, E46 is not post 2004 BMW series (starting with E60) that have IBS. They are much more simpler, and not any more complex than your average microwave manufacturer, such as Toyota, Hyundai, Subaru or Honda.
1. Coolant hoses and water pump/thermostat should be changed regardless whether everything is OK.
2. Check subframe.
3. Check oil filter housing gasket, and valve cover gaskets. Check VANOS.

Best thing would be to take car to good BMW indy mechanic, not BMW dealership as mechanics in BMW dealership today do not know to do anything if computer does not tell them how, and E46 is very analog vehicle.
Also, someone mentioned 07 X5 4.8i. Anyone who buys BMW v8 is buying BMW because of badge, and they 100% do not know ANYTHING about them. If they new, they would know to never buy BMW with N62 or N63 engine (V8's). Your E46 have inline 6 cyl engine, and those are probably best 6 cyl engines ever made in the world. They have some issues, as all engines do, but nothing major, and no engine is having that silky sound as BMW inline 6.
Now, E46 you are looking is 20 year old car. As I mentioned, coolant hoses would have to be changed and water pump, and water pump/thermostat is very easy DIY on those engines even if you never did it.
But, again, it is 20 year old car. However, if car is OK, and you change some stuff, get it in good order, you will be fastest guy on curvy mountain road as chasis in that car is better than in many new cars.
 
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Originally Posted by LotI
The Humble Mechanic just published a very pertinent podcast. He speaks of an Audi A8 but I would apply it to any luxury car out of warranty. Skip to 5:30 for the gist.

"I am a firm believer in the most expensive vehicle you can own is a cheap used luxury car."

Audi A8 and BMW E46?
I mean, one cannot make this up.
 
I'll give you an example on a "Cheap" German car in my signature.

The dual-mass flywheel gave out and by the time I bought the parts and tools to replace it and the clutch, I had $1500 in the job doing it myself.
Ever hear of triple square bit sockets? You'll need them to work on a German vehicle unless it's really old.

Look up the price for a dual-mass flywheel. Of course you could install a solid flywheel, but given your previous threads about wheel balance issues,
I guarantee you wont like it.
 
Originally Posted by skyactiv
I'll give you an example on a "Cheap" German car in my signature.

The dual-mass flywheel gave out and by the time I bought the parts and tools to replace it and the clutch, I had $1500 in the job doing it myself.
Ever hear of triple square bit sockets? You'll need them to work on a German vehicle unless it's really old.

Look up the price for a dual-mass flywheel. Of course you could install a solid flywheel, but given your previous threads about wheel balance issues,
I guarantee you wont like it.

Dual-mass flywheel is for VW products like water pump for BMW, they just cannot get their grip around that. I changed 2 on Skoda Octavia 1.9tdi.
 
I will add that I like how German cars drive and to me it's worth it. My GTI is my favorite car I ever owned. I do want a BMW someday.
 
If youre mechanically inclined, those earlier ones are the easiest to work on and parts are everywhere. E39, E36, E46, all with the M54 that HASNT been overheated are great cars if the body is straight. We see tons over 200k. Amazon has tons of cheap parts for it, along with junkyards. Even OE quality parts really arent that bad. However, most people run them into the ground after they start hearing the repair costs and even lots of small things add up quickly. Keep in mind, maintenance does not depreciate.
 
Originally Posted by skyactiv
I will add that I like how German cars drive and to me it's worth it. My GTI is my favorite car I ever owned. I do want a BMW someday.

That is not an issue for me too.
BMW's definitely have their quirks. But, as it happened every time I owned one, every morning when I wake up, I was looking to drive to where ever I needed to go. Now I drive Toyota to work and I have feeling I will vomit when I turn on engine.
 
The fewer the electrical doo-dads and the better the maintenance habits of the prior owner, the greater the chances of you finding a good German car.

I would look at getting a VW with the 5-speed and the 2.5 liter engine. A Rabbit in particular may be a great choice if it was maintained right.
 
Originally Posted by ram_man
Hey everyone, so I am going to buy a cheap car around $2,500 for me to drive my girlfriend has to drive to Indiana once a month and 70 miles to work so I am going to let her have the dart as her full time daily. I have come across a few early 2000's BMW's with manual transmissions around 150,000 miles they look decent as well. Condition wise. I'm scared of them mostly because I don't know much about them . What is your thoughts on German cars particularly older BMW's? What should be watched out for? Or should they be avoided all together.


My advice is to simply buy an American car from an American company, which is Ford or GM now... I wish Chrysler was still in there, but sadly they aren't. You can benefit on the cost front, since American cars are less expensive to buy and to own. I bought a BMW for my wife, brand new in '03 and had tranny problems (among other issues) until I traded it a year and a half later (last foreign car ever for me). Ford & GM make vehicles that are second to none and they are plentiful. Good Luck man.
 
Originally Posted by Audios
Amazon has tons of cheap parts for it, along with junkyards.
BMWs were not that common in the upic nearest to me before they closed it. They were also almost always picked clean when I saw them. Tons of VAGs, few Mercedes and BMW.
 
Originally Posted by Wolf359

You mean aside from the obvious ones of the fact that they're 18-19 years old and have over 150k? That's usually the primary reason.


You mean the car or the owner?
 
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