Thank you for the credit, SubieRubyRoo. I don't work in the formulation industry. I have just spent way too much time reading and learning about it, and I had enough scientific education to comprehend most of it. I humbly lower myself below those who have worked in the formulation industry.
Best detergent oil for light sludge in Toyota 3.4
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Subie's post is right on. Oil alone will take forever to clean anything. Valvoline Premium Blue Restore was especially developed for fleet operators to clean ring land drain back holes and to stop pistons from sticking rings. It's the real deal in a cleaning oil. It's also sometimes very hard to come by ... See your local Cummin's dealer ...
My system is to run all oil and 1 qt of MMO continuously. Cheap enough and easy on the motor. Add a full can of BG-109 (EPR) 100 miles before a change and drive it normally. Change the oil and do it again. The sludge will be gone (mostly) in about 5 changes.
You can get there faster with KREEN or Seafoam in the oil, but you will need to be changing filters often as it will dislodge stuff. Oversized filters and filter swaps every 500 miles for while is good on the rapid program ...
My system is to run all oil and 1 qt of MMO continuously. Cheap enough and easy on the motor. Add a full can of BG-109 (EPR) 100 miles before a change and drive it normally. Change the oil and do it again. The sludge will be gone (mostly) in about 5 changes.
You can get there faster with KREEN or Seafoam in the oil, but you will need to be changing filters often as it will dislodge stuff. Oversized filters and filter swaps every 500 miles for while is good on the rapid program ...
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Amsoil's AME 15w40 Diesel and Marine has like 3500ppm of Calcium. I'd imagine that would put a nice dent in some sludge, probably like others have said it won't do much to real tacky stuff anytime fast but I'd imagine with such a large slug of calcium it would definitely be able to hold its own
Originally Posted by jongies3
T6 5W-30 Multi-Vehicle or the more commonly found 5W-40.
I don't believe that the T6 5w40 is still SN rated so I've been using the 5w30 multi car. Oreillys can be it for me in under a day
T6 5W-30 Multi-Vehicle or the more commonly found 5W-40.
I don't believe that the T6 5w40 is still SN rated so I've been using the 5w30 multi car. Oreillys can be it for me in under a day
Originally Posted by BigShug681
Why does it matter if the OP has sludge or not? It's the OP's prerogative so just answer his question, no need to interrogate the OP as if prematurely cleaning an engine is a major crime.
Thanks... My thoughts exactly...
Why does it matter if the OP has sludge or not? It's the OP's prerogative so just answer his question, no need to interrogate the OP as if prematurely cleaning an engine is a major crime.
Thanks... My thoughts exactly...
Originally Posted by BigShug681
Amsoil's AME 15w40 Diesel and Marine has like 3500ppm of Calcium. I'd imagine that would put a nice dent in some sludge, probably like others have said it won't do much to real tacky stuff anytime fast but I'd imagine with such a large slug of calcium it would definitely be able to hold its own
Calcium in oil is a buffer for acid build-up. It does not clean anything. Solvents and polar molecules clean things, or at least loosen them so the filter can catch stuff ...
Amsoil's AME 15w40 Diesel and Marine has like 3500ppm of Calcium. I'd imagine that would put a nice dent in some sludge, probably like others have said it won't do much to real tacky stuff anytime fast but I'd imagine with such a large slug of calcium it would definitely be able to hold its own
Calcium in oil is a buffer for acid build-up. It does not clean anything. Solvents and polar molecules clean things, or at least loosen them so the filter can catch stuff ...
I'll respectfully disagree
If it's working fine, do you really need to clean it?
How about some of that Valvoline Blue Restore? It's a 10w-30, and so grade compatible. It's a crazy expensive (about $75 per gallon) special formula designed specifically to dissolve carbon from badly sticking piston rings in certain Cummins diesel engines. This stuff actually IS something different, and might be worth a look. There are a couple threads somewhere on here about it. Make sure you see the word "Restore" not just plain Blue.
Oh, duh, it's the very next thread at the moment... That's where.
ekpolk, have you been hiding on us and then just suddenly reappeared while I'm hiding doing year end work?
I saw this recently:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6VLMfUz34R0
Discussion about cleaning starts about 8:00 minues in.
They are saying that the oil has to get up to temperature before it starts "trapping contaminates"
at 13:00 minutes in - they are talking about flushing engines out by using cheap oil, getting it up to temp, and changing it within 30 minutes or a few hours.
Interested to know what you guys think about that.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6VLMfUz34R0
Discussion about cleaning starts about 8:00 minues in.
They are saying that the oil has to get up to temperature before it starts "trapping contaminates"
at 13:00 minutes in - they are talking about flushing engines out by using cheap oil, getting it up to temp, and changing it within 30 minutes or a few hours.
Interested to know what you guys think about that.
Originally Posted by Onetor
Check this thread: Valvoline Premium Blue Restore
Double-duh. . . I already posted the VPBR info.
Check this thread: Valvoline Premium Blue Restore
Double-duh. . . I already posted the VPBR info.
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