The truck does have head studs. I do know the owner (good friend) took care of the truck but I do not know much about the truck otherwise.
Best 5w40 synthetic for 6.0 Powerstroke
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Well, with head studs and a few other mods, the 6.0's are nice motors! They just get a bad rap from many owners trashing them without head studs...
Buy a 5 gallon bucket of Delvac 1 esp 5w40! use the rebate! Good Luck!
The SCT is a really good tuner for it.
Buy a 5 gallon bucket of Delvac 1 esp 5w40! use the rebate! Good Luck!
The SCT is a really good tuner for it.
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dnewton3
Staff member
OP -
You've not addressed any long OFCI topic, so we'll presume you have no intention of that.
There is no "best oil". There are plenty of very good oils; not brand specific. Regarding grade, you're not anywhere near cold enough in NJ to need a syn. You want one; I get that. And that's fine to use one, if you enjoy wasting money. But the engine does not "need" a syn. Plenty of success stories for the 6.0L using conventional 15w-40 and 10w-30. I prefer the thinner grade vs. thicker, as it does not shear as badly, if at all.
You've not addressed any long OFCI topic, so we'll presume you have no intention of that.
There is no "best oil". There are plenty of very good oils; not brand specific. Regarding grade, you're not anywhere near cold enough in NJ to need a syn. You want one; I get that. And that's fine to use one, if you enjoy wasting money. But the engine does not "need" a syn. Plenty of success stories for the 6.0L using conventional 15w-40 and 10w-30. I prefer the thinner grade vs. thicker, as it does not shear as badly, if at all.
None. There is no best 5w40 for a 6 leaker.
As a former 6.ohno owner, you have to really love the things, or you should just walk away Renee.
All 5w40's will shear to a 30 weight in the engine. Nature of the beast. Run any of the 10w30 offerings, and drive.
Start putting money away, you will need head gaskets, and studs if they are not done.
If they are, continue to put money away for the disposable oil cooler, up pipe replacement, coolant flush, and etc.,etc, and etc.
BUT, if you are committed, ARP studs and FelPro gaskets are a great combination. A fresh factory Ford cooler, delete the EGR, and have the FICM worked by ficmrepair with the Atlas 40 tune on it, and the truck becomes pretty reliable and fun to drive.
Blue spring kit in the fuel bowl, factory Motorcraft or Racor oil filter and oil about every 5k, fuel filters every 10k, and Stanadyne fuel add every tank. The turbo will eventually coke up and the variable vanes freeze, but you'll get those cleaned when the studs are put in.
As I said, you have to love the 6.0 or it gets frustrating very quickly.
I got tired, traded for 6.7, and actually enjoy driving and towing now.
As a former 6.ohno owner, you have to really love the things, or you should just walk away Renee.
All 5w40's will shear to a 30 weight in the engine. Nature of the beast. Run any of the 10w30 offerings, and drive.
Start putting money away, you will need head gaskets, and studs if they are not done.
If they are, continue to put money away for the disposable oil cooler, up pipe replacement, coolant flush, and etc.,etc, and etc.
BUT, if you are committed, ARP studs and FelPro gaskets are a great combination. A fresh factory Ford cooler, delete the EGR, and have the FICM worked by ficmrepair with the Atlas 40 tune on it, and the truck becomes pretty reliable and fun to drive.
Blue spring kit in the fuel bowl, factory Motorcraft or Racor oil filter and oil about every 5k, fuel filters every 10k, and Stanadyne fuel add every tank. The turbo will eventually coke up and the variable vanes freeze, but you'll get those cleaned when the studs are put in.
As I said, you have to love the 6.0 or it gets frustrating very quickly.
I got tired, traded for 6.7, and actually enjoy driving and towing now.
I have an 05 with the 6.0 and love it! Take care of all of Ford's shortcomings early in its life and it will be mostly trouble free and out-perform any Cummins or Duracrap out there. Biggest thing is get rid of that EGR cooler and put a REAL diesel coolant in the darn things! Use CAT rated ELC, and not the passenger car rated Ford "Gold" junk! That, IMO was the #1 reason for failure in these trucks! Not to mention the engine was rated when built by IH to produce 265BHP reliably for 500k miles. Ford just had to bump it to 325 to compete and then these kids buy them and load the hottest tune you can find and BOOM!, man those 6.0's are junk! lmao!
Its a wash with all of them, buy the Dodge to get the Cummins but put a $3000 transmission in it every couple years or spend $5k and fix the 6.0 once and have a killer truck!
Oh, and use LiquiMoly M0s2 every oil change with a good diesel rated 10W30 and it will reward you with trouble free service. The M0s2 is as good or better than the overpriced RevX and Archoil and 1/3 the cost!
Its a wash with all of them, buy the Dodge to get the Cummins but put a $3000 transmission in it every couple years or spend $5k and fix the 6.0 once and have a killer truck!
Oh, and use LiquiMoly M0s2 every oil change with a good diesel rated 10W30 and it will reward you with trouble free service. The M0s2 is as good or better than the overpriced RevX and Archoil and 1/3 the cost!
Valvoline 5w-40 Extreme
Rotella, Delvac or Mobil 1, flip a coin! (Or get the cheapest one on sale) No need to waste money on boutique oils as these ones are more than adequate. My 7.3 seems to "like" T6 the best of all I've tried. Just make sure to follow the OEM intervals on it as I understand the 6.0 thrashes on oil pretty hard and good on you running MC filters on it! Heard lots of horror stories running aftermarket oil filters causing issues in those for whatever reason.
Also running the T6 in my 7.3 this past winter was great, many single digit startups with no problems and it hardly romped at all like it use to with regular 15W-40. Glow plugs, relay, and new batteries and cables on top of all that and she starts up like a dream. People that say diesels are hard to start in cold probably don't maintain them right. I live in Montana so I know cold!
Originally Posted by benjy
there are best oils + best for my application + wallet!! IMO RedLine lubricants fall into the BEST application if money is not an issue. most "synthetics" are better but just a higher processed CRUDE oils but ESTER + PAO are synthesised + superior REAL synthetic oils
What kind of gibberish is that?
there are best oils + best for my application + wallet!! IMO RedLine lubricants fall into the BEST application if money is not an issue. most "synthetics" are better but just a higher processed CRUDE oils but ESTER + PAO are synthesised + superior REAL synthetic oils
What kind of gibberish is that?
Originally Posted by 4WD
Originally Posted by toneydoc
Rotella is good stuff
Did T6 ever get the NOACK down cause last I heard it was higher than dino Delo and Delvac that have higher HTHS = million mile motor club � and what. $12/gallon �
Yup. If they ain't in the million mile club, they ain't real diesel engine oils
Originally Posted by toneydoc
Rotella is good stuff
Did T6 ever get the NOACK down cause last I heard it was higher than dino Delo and Delvac that have higher HTHS = million mile motor club � and what. $12/gallon �
Yup. If they ain't in the million mile club, they ain't real diesel engine oils
Originally Posted by Cujet
You won't find a better oil than Mobil 1, 5W-40 TDT. It's about as robust as they come. It's also a great choice for other demanding applications, such as air cooled motorcycles, generators and turbocharged cars.
Rotella T6 is a good oil, but keep in mind it's not as robust as the TDT, and Duramax owners have had some ticking/noise issues with T6.
Ticking/noise issues over the sound of an already rattling diesel engine? I'm calling bull on that one. Lol
You won't find a better oil than Mobil 1, 5W-40 TDT. It's about as robust as they come. It's also a great choice for other demanding applications, such as air cooled motorcycles, generators and turbocharged cars.
Rotella T6 is a good oil, but keep in mind it's not as robust as the TDT, and Duramax owners have had some ticking/noise issues with T6.
Ticking/noise issues over the sound of an already rattling diesel engine? I'm calling bull on that one. Lol
Originally Posted by Cujet
You won't find a better oil than Mobil 1, 5W-40 TDT. It's about as robust as they come. It's also a great choice for other demanding applications, such as air cooled motorcycles, generators and turbocharged cars.
Not questioning you, as I'm running M1 TDT 5w40 in my Ram EcoDiesel, but where are you getting that it's "robust"?
All I ever hear is that it's the weaker little brother of Delvac 1 because it doesn't have many manufacturer approvals and that if you want a stout and robust oil you should choose Delvac 1.
I chose M1 TDT 5w40 because I got it for $10/g and it meets all of the requirements my EcoDiesel calls for.
You won't find a better oil than Mobil 1, 5W-40 TDT. It's about as robust as they come. It's also a great choice for other demanding applications, such as air cooled motorcycles, generators and turbocharged cars.
Not questioning you, as I'm running M1 TDT 5w40 in my Ram EcoDiesel, but where are you getting that it's "robust"?
All I ever hear is that it's the weaker little brother of Delvac 1 because it doesn't have many manufacturer approvals and that if you want a stout and robust oil you should choose Delvac 1.
I chose M1 TDT 5w40 because I got it for $10/g and it meets all of the requirements my EcoDiesel calls for.
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Originally Posted by SavagePatch
Originally Posted by Cujet
You won't find a better oil than Mobil 1, 5W-40 TDT. It's about as robust as they come. It's also a great choice for other demanding applications, such as air cooled motorcycles, generators and turbocharged cars.
Not questioning you, as I'm running M1 TDT 5w40 in my Ram EcoDiesel, but where are you getting that it's "robust"?
All I ever hear is that it's the weaker little brother of Delvac 1 because it doesn't have many manufacturer approvals and that if you want a stout and robust oil you should choose Delvac 1.
I chose M1 TDT 5w40 because I got it for $10/g and it meets all of the requirements my EcoDiesel calls for.
Last I checked, M1 TDT does NOT have MS-10902/Cummins CES 20081, so it is not an oil that meets all of the specs unless that changed.
Delvac 1 ESP 5W40 has Cummins CES 20081 along with just about every other builder approval.
Originally Posted by Cujet
You won't find a better oil than Mobil 1, 5W-40 TDT. It's about as robust as they come. It's also a great choice for other demanding applications, such as air cooled motorcycles, generators and turbocharged cars.
Not questioning you, as I'm running M1 TDT 5w40 in my Ram EcoDiesel, but where are you getting that it's "robust"?
All I ever hear is that it's the weaker little brother of Delvac 1 because it doesn't have many manufacturer approvals and that if you want a stout and robust oil you should choose Delvac 1.
I chose M1 TDT 5w40 because I got it for $10/g and it meets all of the requirements my EcoDiesel calls for.
Last I checked, M1 TDT does NOT have MS-10902/Cummins CES 20081, so it is not an oil that meets all of the specs unless that changed.
Delvac 1 ESP 5W40 has Cummins CES 20081 along with just about every other builder approval.
Hello, fellow 6.0 owner here, a few things that I want to touch on. First high quality oil is essential with the 6.0, if you fail to use it you will be plugging the truck in at anything under 55 degrees. Second Warren Diesel specifically states that you should not run T6, something to do with it can foam in an HPO system and it will leave deposit build up on the spool valves of the injector causing stiction, and they build injectors so I think I'd follow what they say. Third, the 6.0 is an awesome engine and is actually becoming quite the contender as a powerhouse in the diesel scene. I can't remember if you said it but make sure you have at least a tool that can measure Ficm voltage, ICP and IPR values, a fuel pressure gauge is a must to ensure the truck has adequate supply to the injectors or you will be replacing them in a hurry, finally even if it's been studded you need to check the cooling system pressure at the degas, would be a shame to have a nice truck only to find out it has blown head gaskets. Now to answer your original question the attached picture is a very good choice for the 6.0, but I've also ran the 5w40 amsoil you mentioned
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted by 2015_PSD
Originally Posted by Cujet
Rotella T6 is a good oil, but keep in mind it's not as robust as the TDT.
Based on?
Yes, please do help to make the case of what that is based upon...
Originally Posted by Cujet
Rotella T6 is a good oil, but keep in mind it's not as robust as the TDT.
Based on?
Yes, please do help to make the case of what that is based upon...
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