Some hardware stores might carry metric studs.
Mower Only Runs Well On Choke (Lopey Idle)
- Thread starter gathermewool
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gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
Installed new carb and the mower now runs perfectly. Started on 3rd pull this time and ran off-choke within 10 seconds of warming up; it initially stalled when I started it cold and then went off choke immediately. Started again on 1st pull.
After warming up, it peters out and wants to stall when the choke is fully shut.
One question:
At idle, the throttle lever stays above where the idle-adjust screw is by a little bit. When I manually operate the throttle as low as allowed by the idle-adjust screw, the RPM lowers, but does not stall. I'm assuming I don't need to adjust the screw, if the idle is OK, right?
After warming up, it peters out and wants to stall when the choke is fully shut.
One question:
At idle, the throttle lever stays above where the idle-adjust screw is by a little bit. When I manually operate the throttle as low as allowed by the idle-adjust screw, the RPM lowers, but does not stall. I'm assuming I don't need to adjust the screw, if the idle is OK, right?
gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
Great, thanks!
Note: the old carb had a very small amount of debris in the bowl after pulling it. I guess I didn't do a good enough job of cleaning out the gas tank, lines and carb.
Note: the old carb had a very small amount of debris in the bowl after pulling it. I guess I didn't do a good enough job of cleaning out the gas tank, lines and carb.
gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Quote:
fter warming up, it peters out and wants to stall when the choke is fully shut.
Is it fixed yet?
I thought running badly with the choke shut (on) was normal.
Quote:
fter warming up, it peters out and wants to stall when the choke is fully shut.
Is it fixed yet?
I thought running badly with the choke shut (on) was normal.
gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
Originally Posted By: Vikas
You are right, I read it wrong and I thought it was petering out after warming!
How did you handle the broken stud?
No worries. I don't always use the right terminology, so I just wanted to be clear.
I ordered a new stud for a couple bucks. The spec'd torque value is much lower than I likely used. I tightened it without using the ratchet this time, tightening hand-tight only.
You are right, I read it wrong and I thought it was petering out after warming!
How did you handle the broken stud?
No worries. I don't always use the right terminology, so I just wanted to be clear.
I ordered a new stud for a couple bucks. The spec'd torque value is much lower than I likely used. I tightened it without using the ratchet this time, tightening hand-tight only.
It's a shame you didn't just poke out the hole I told you about and save your money. The 'idle' screw should be left alone on the new carb. Its purpose is to keep the engine from running too slow, not to set the actual engine run speed. If you want more RPMs, there should be a tab the governor spring is attached to that you can bend to make the spring a little bit tighter, thus make the engine run harder (not too hard).
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
Great, thanks!
Note: the old carb had a very small amount of debris in the bowl after pulling it. I guess I didn't do a good enough job of cleaning out the gas tank, lines and carb.
I'd keep that carb, take it apart and clean all the jets and venturi ports. Have it ready to go if the new one on there now ever gums up as well.
If you need a small stylet i can mail you one.
Great, thanks!
Note: the old carb had a very small amount of debris in the bowl after pulling it. I guess I didn't do a good enough job of cleaning out the gas tank, lines and carb.
I'd keep that carb, take it apart and clean all the jets and venturi ports. Have it ready to go if the new one on there now ever gums up as well.
If you need a small stylet i can mail you one.
gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
Originally Posted By: yeehaw1960
It's a shame you didn't just poke out the hole I told you about and save your money. The 'idle' screw should be left alone on the new carb. Its purpose is to keep the engine from running too slow, not to set the actual engine run speed. If you want more RPMs, there should be a tab the governor spring is attached to that you can bend to make the spring a little bit tighter, thus make the engine run harder (not too hard).
I did and it still ran badly. I want to spend more time figuring out why. I plan to soak the carb for a couple of days and try again. I won’t know if it works until I need to replace it, which may be never (if I’m lucky).
The new carb came with the idle adjust screw all the way backed out. I turned it in until the engine slowed, but still ran while I manually operated the throttle. It took exposing a couple of flats to not almost stall. Is that right?
The engine seems to run at an appropriate speed. If it seems like it’s bogging down too much I’ll adjust the governor linkage.
Thanks again for the advice. I’m sorry I’ve that disappointed you.
It's a shame you didn't just poke out the hole I told you about and save your money. The 'idle' screw should be left alone on the new carb. Its purpose is to keep the engine from running too slow, not to set the actual engine run speed. If you want more RPMs, there should be a tab the governor spring is attached to that you can bend to make the spring a little bit tighter, thus make the engine run harder (not too hard).
I did and it still ran badly. I want to spend more time figuring out why. I plan to soak the carb for a couple of days and try again. I won’t know if it works until I need to replace it, which may be never (if I’m lucky).
The new carb came with the idle adjust screw all the way backed out. I turned it in until the engine slowed, but still ran while I manually operated the throttle. It took exposing a couple of flats to not almost stall. Is that right?
The engine seems to run at an appropriate speed. If it seems like it’s bogging down too much I’ll adjust the governor linkage.
Thanks again for the advice. I’m sorry I’ve that disappointed you.
gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
The last sentence of my previous post was in jest - I forgot to add the emoji.
Sorry...I thought I read that that you pulled that plug out and was satisfied that the hole it came out of was clean. That's not the same as poking a stiff wire through the tip of the plug to clean out that unreasonably small passage. I get too 'into it' when I'm troubleshooting from 'afar'.
gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
Originally Posted By: yeehaw1960
Sorry...I thought I read that that you pulled that plug out and was satisfied that the hole it came out of was clean. That's not the same as poking a stiff wire through the tip of the plug to clean out that unreasonably small passage. I get too 'into it' when I'm troubleshooting from 'afar'.
No worries - I didn't actually put that in any follow-up post. When I pulled the plug it looked really clean; however, I put a cleaner through it multiple times. I tried cleaning the carb again, but I have NOT soaked the carb yet. I have a feeling that the fuel was in there for way too long before I took ownership and, as you and others have mentioned, it wreaked havoc on a lot of small orifices.
Sorry...I thought I read that that you pulled that plug out and was satisfied that the hole it came out of was clean. That's not the same as poking a stiff wire through the tip of the plug to clean out that unreasonably small passage. I get too 'into it' when I'm troubleshooting from 'afar'.
No worries - I didn't actually put that in any follow-up post. When I pulled the plug it looked really clean; however, I put a cleaner through it multiple times. I tried cleaning the carb again, but I have NOT soaked the carb yet. I have a feeling that the fuel was in there for way too long before I took ownership and, as you and others have mentioned, it wreaked havoc on a lot of small orifices.
gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
Finally got around to blowing all of the leaves into a relatively even line in the lawn and then using the mower to mulch it (worked very well, btw).
Just after the mower was warmed up it started to clack and clang and sputter, until it almost stalled. Based on the warnings above about a broken flywheel key, my heart immediately sank!
Checked the obvious first: tank was almost out of gas - I had only put enough in after the carb swap to get it running and forgot to add more!
Just after the mower was warmed up it started to clack and clang and sputter, until it almost stalled. Based on the warnings above about a broken flywheel key, my heart immediately sank!
Checked the obvious first: tank was almost out of gas - I had only put enough in after the carb swap to get it running and forgot to add more!
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