Mower Only Runs Well On Choke (Lopey Idle)

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Originally Posted By: gathermewool
Originally Posted By: ARB1977
Hit it with some Amsoil Power foam.


Which store is that sold in, again?
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Ha...Amsoil dealer. I’ve heard it works great at cleaning out carbs and engines.
 
Originally Posted By: boraticus
Don't know how many times it's been said. Elixers don't clean carbs. Don't care what it's called, it won't do the job. It will clean your wallet out pretty good though.


I pulled and cleaned the carb; probably didn't do a good enough job, admittedly, but that step was completed. I purchased the B12, intending to clean the carbon on the piston.

Like an idiot, I filled the gas tank halfway. I'll either need to clamp off the fuel line or run it dry (which will take hours!) I think we know the expected COA.
 
Gathermewool: Looks like a 'Chonda' engine. When you cleaned the carb, did you pull the plastic plug out of the top? Remove the idle screw, because it's in the way. (Make a mental note of the current adjustment first) Pry the plastic plug (thingy) out. There is a wire brush wire sized hole in the tip that must be cleaned out. Not the obvious hole that goes all the way through on the side. It's a tiny hole that is in the tip and goes through to those bigger holes. When you put it back together, be sure the idle adjustment screw is back where it was. Will solve your problem. Only a stiff wire brush wire will poke through that hole sometimes. It's very tiny, and sometimes the clog is hardened.

Most of us on here assume that everyone knows about 'all' of the passages on these things, so we often don't elaborate.
 
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Originally Posted By: yeehaw1960
Gathermewool: Looks like a 'Chonda' engine. When you cleaned the carb, did you pull the plastic plug out of the top? Remove the idle screw, because it's in the way. (Make a mental note of the current adjustment first) Pry the plastic plug (thingy) out. There is a wire brush wire sized hole in the tip that must be cleaned out. Not the obvious hole that goes all the way through on the side. It's a tiny hole that is in the tip and goes through to those bigger holes. When you put it back together, be sure the idle adjustment screw is back where it was. Will solve your problem. Only a stiff wire brush wire will poke through that hole sometimes. It's very tiny, and sometimes the clog is hardened.

Most of us on here assume that everyone knows about 'all' of the passages on these things, so we often don't elaborate.


I did not clean there. Will do when I pull it again. ‘Perciate it!
 
a lopping idle indicates a plugged idle jet.
Won't run with choke off means that both jets
are plugged.
Use a strand of electrical wire to physically
clear them then spray with strong carb cleaner.
(Gum-out is NOT a strong cleaner)


My 2¢
 
As others have said, the jets are plugged with dirt, dissolved rubber, and/or varnish (from old gas) which must be mechanically/physically removed to allow the fuel to flow through them. Adding something to the fuel won't help because fuel must actually be flowing through those jets for an additive to do anything.
I have given instructions on how to fix this problem before, I will give them again.
1. Drain all of the fuel from the tank and fuel line.
2. Remove and disassemble the carb.
3. Poke a small STIFF steel wire through all of the jets, including the main jet found in some float bowl nuts (on the side of the nut on some engines, Tecumseh engines in particular). Do not use copper electrical wire, if it is small enough, it won't be stiff enough. I use the small steel wire found inside plastic twist ties, everyone has twist ties laying around the house. Don't worry about wallowing out the jets, you will only be poking through them.
4. Spray carb cleaner through all of the jets and passageways. Wear eye protection. Compressed air is not needed.
5. Clean-out any varnish and dirt/debris found in the float bowl.
6. Shake the float. If there is anything in it, replace it.
7. After re-installing the carb, check to make sure that the choke operates properly and the throttle linkages are installed and operating correctly. Adjust the governor.
8. Replace the fuel line if it is hard or cracked.
9. Refill with FRESH fuel, not just fresh from the gas can, fresh from the gas station! If your gas can has had gas left in it for a couple of years or if it has been left outside in the rain, get a new gas can.
10. After filling with fuel, let it sit for 30-45 minutes with the air cleaner off before starting. Watch for fuel overflowing from the carb. If so, the inlet needle (and seat in some engines) and/or float will need replacing. Some carbs will need to be replaced if this happens due to corrosion in the inlet seat, Honda carbs are famous for this.
I have performed this procedure many thousands of times and it works every time. The average mechanically inclined person can complete this procedure in less than an hour. Total expenditure, less than a dollar in most cases. The only times that the carb will need to be replaced are due to corrosion or excessive wear.
 
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I had a POS Tecumseh snowblower motor that got where it only ran with the choke on. It was the flywheel key almost all the way sheared off.
 
Originally Posted By: wag123
As others have said, the jets are plugged with dirt, dissolved rubber, and/or varnish (from old gas) which must be mechanically/physically removed to allow the fuel to flow through them. Adding something to the fuel won't help because fuel must actually be flowing through those jets for an additive to do anything.
I have given instructions on how to fix this problem before, I will give them again.
1. Drain all of the fuel from the tank and fuel line.
2. Remove and disassemble the carb.
3. Poke a small STIFF steel wire through all of the jets, including the main jet found in some float bowl nuts (on the side of the nut on some engines, Tecumseh engines in particular). Do not use copper electrical wire, if it is small enough, it won't be stiff enough. I use the small steel wire found inside plastic twist ties, everyone has twist ties laying around the house. Don't worry about wallowing out the jets, you will only be poking through them.
4. Spray carb cleaner through all of the jets and passageways. Wear eye protection. Compressed air is not needed.
5. Clean-out any varnish and dirt/debris found in the float bowl.
6. Shake the float. If there is anything in it, replace it.
7. After re-installing the carb, check to make sure that the choke operates properly and the throttle linkages are installed and operating correctly. Adjust the governor.
8. Replace the fuel line if it is hard or cracked.
9. Refill with FRESH fuel, not just fresh from the gas can, fresh from the gas station! If your gas can has had gas left in it for a couple of years or if it has been left outside in the rain, get a new gas can.
10. After filling with fuel, let it sit for 30-45 minutes with the air cleaner off before starting. Watch for fuel overflowing from the carb. If so, the inlet needle (and seat in some engines) and/or float will need replacing. Some carbs will need to be replaced if this happens due to corrosion in the inlet seat, Honda carbs are famous for this.
I have performed this procedure many thousands of times and it works every time. The average mechanically inclined person can complete this procedure in less than an hour. Total expenditure, less than a dollar in most cases. The only times that the carb will need to be replaced are due to corrosion or excessive wear.


Awesome, thanks for the pointers. I'll check everything you mentioned and report back my findings.
 
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
I had a POS Tecumseh snowblower motor that got where it only ran with the choke on. It was the flywheel key almost all the way sheared off.


How can I check this?
 
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
I had a POS Tecumseh snowblower motor that got where it only ran with the choke on. It was the flywheel key almost all the way sheared off.


How can I check this?

The flywheel must be removed to check the flywheel key. To do this you will need a small engine flywheel puller (or knocker) and a torque wrench for flywheel re-installation (re-torquing the flywheel nut to the correct amount is critical). Do not attempt to use a jaw-type pulley/bearing puller. A sheared flywheel key would be a relatively rare occurrence on a snow blower but fairly common on a rotary mower, particularly if you are prone to hitting objects with it (like rocks, roots, stumps, pipes, etc). Typically, the starter will kick back if the key is sheared (wants to pull the rope out of your hand when starting), and often times the engine won't start at all (choke or no choke) because the ignition timing is off. If the flywheel key is sheared you also need to inspect the mower for blade damage and a bent crankshaft.
In your case, I would pursue the clogged carburetor repair before looking at this.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
I had a POS Tecumseh snowblower motor that got where it only ran with the choke on. It was the flywheel key almost all the way sheared off.


How can I check this?


I just loosen the nut so no threads are exposed. Put a pry bar under the flywheel and hammer the nut. Pops right off.
 
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
I had a POS Tecumseh snowblower motor that got where it only ran with the choke on. It was the flywheel key almost all the way sheared off.


How can I check this?


I just loosen the nut so no threads are exposed. Put a pry bar under the flywheel and hammer the nut. Pops right off.


Done that on a number of occasions. When one doesn't have a puller big enough, you have to use what you have. One must ensure the nut is backed off sufficiently to protect the threads on the shaft and to provide room for the flywheel to move.

If I were the OP, I'd ensure the carb is clean before I'd be pulling the flywheel.
 
Don't pull the flywheel until you poke out the hole I told you about. On the Chonda's, for what you're describing, the flywheel is not the problem. If it ran pretty strong with a slight 'miss', or kicked back (and didn't start) when you pulled the rope, I would check the key.
 
The fact that the mower started almost immediately after re-installing the (apparently not very well cleaned) carb AND was actually able to run off-choke (only when warmed-up, granted), whereas it was previously hard to start and would almost immediately die as soon as the choke was opened up.

Also, as previously mentioned, I stupidly filled the mower's gas tank more than halfway.
33.gif


What would you guys do with the fuel? The fuel is now only a few days old (and treated with Stabil and some B12), so I'd rather not dump it. I'm not sure whether to let the mower burn it all up, to possibly burn off some of the piston carbon, or to dump it into my genny or maybe some intermediate container for reuse in the mower after cleaning the carb again.
 
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