Car: 2001 Camry 1MZ-FE, miles: 108,xxx
About a month ago I installed a TYC altenator because my original altenator was only supplying 12.8-13.1 volts to the battery when the car was running which isn't super horrible but not the best. It was my mistake for buying the TYC from Rockauto as I did not read clearly enough when purchasing. It was my first purchase from them and I saw Denso in the description and thought I was getting a Denso rebuild. I didn't, my own reckless stupidity. Dumb me....
The new altenator is putting out 14.8 volts to the battery when it's running but now I'm having electrical issues that I never had before. Two days later on the way home from midnights at work my TC light started flashing and the ABS light came on. I have a bluetooth code reader but it didn't show codes and I shut the car off when I got home. The lights were not on the next time I started it. I live in Michigan so it's been very cold. I was off for a few days and drove around in temps above 20 degrees Fahrenheit and the lights never came during those days off. I left for work in the morning after my days off with temps below 20 and the lights came on almost immediately. When I got out of work it was warm out (in the thirties) and the lights were not on. If the lights are off and I spin the tires in snow the lights come on immediately and neither the TC or ABS work. The other day I spun the tires and only the TC light came on and stays on. I have to disconnect the battery to clear it. Yesterday morning I left work from midnights and the temps were around zero. Sure enough the ABS light came on and the TC light was already on since. I went into work today with the temperature around 40, the ABS light was off and the TC was still on since I had not disconnected the battery to clear it.
As far as I can tell cold temps below 20 degrees cause the ABS light to come on and the TC light to flash if it isn't lit already. This pattern is very consistent and odd but I'm confident temps below 20 are somehow contributing.
A few weeks ago on a trip out of town my CEL came on with a code P0330. I cleared it and it came back on in about 10 minutes. I've done this a few times over the past few weeks. My car is running just fine and is not running any differently than before he alternator change. MPG, starting, driving, idling, and accelerating all feel the same. I hear no weird knocks or pinging coming from the engine, I don't feel a lack of acceleration from the timing being retarded, and idle is smooth.
Can the new altenator be part of the problem even though it's supplying proper voltage to the battery?
Is it possible that the OE altenator was supplying adequate voltage to the PCM but lower voltage to the battery while the TYC altenator is supplying adequate voltage to the battery but improper voltage to the PCM?
I've researched that improper voltage to the PCM/ECM can cause issues. The battery is an Interstate and was installed a year ago the day I test drove the car. I had none of these issues until I installed the TYC altenator 5 weeks ago. We easily and consistently had temps well below zero from December through January before I changed the altenator and I did not experience any issues with the TC/ABS. I replaced my brakes last summer but it still stops great and I experienced no ABS issues. The altenator also makes a slight and subtle whining sound that my OE never made.
I'm going to check and clean my EGR valve tomorrow as I've read it can contribute to the P0330. It can't hurt anyway with the amount of miles on he car. I'm going to have my OE altenator rebuilt and put that back in. This new TYC might have to be a $100 loss....
Any ideas or suggestions?
Thanks in advance.
About a month ago I installed a TYC altenator because my original altenator was only supplying 12.8-13.1 volts to the battery when the car was running which isn't super horrible but not the best. It was my mistake for buying the TYC from Rockauto as I did not read clearly enough when purchasing. It was my first purchase from them and I saw Denso in the description and thought I was getting a Denso rebuild. I didn't, my own reckless stupidity. Dumb me....
The new altenator is putting out 14.8 volts to the battery when it's running but now I'm having electrical issues that I never had before. Two days later on the way home from midnights at work my TC light started flashing and the ABS light came on. I have a bluetooth code reader but it didn't show codes and I shut the car off when I got home. The lights were not on the next time I started it. I live in Michigan so it's been very cold. I was off for a few days and drove around in temps above 20 degrees Fahrenheit and the lights never came during those days off. I left for work in the morning after my days off with temps below 20 and the lights came on almost immediately. When I got out of work it was warm out (in the thirties) and the lights were not on. If the lights are off and I spin the tires in snow the lights come on immediately and neither the TC or ABS work. The other day I spun the tires and only the TC light came on and stays on. I have to disconnect the battery to clear it. Yesterday morning I left work from midnights and the temps were around zero. Sure enough the ABS light came on and the TC light was already on since. I went into work today with the temperature around 40, the ABS light was off and the TC was still on since I had not disconnected the battery to clear it.
As far as I can tell cold temps below 20 degrees cause the ABS light to come on and the TC light to flash if it isn't lit already. This pattern is very consistent and odd but I'm confident temps below 20 are somehow contributing.
A few weeks ago on a trip out of town my CEL came on with a code P0330. I cleared it and it came back on in about 10 minutes. I've done this a few times over the past few weeks. My car is running just fine and is not running any differently than before he alternator change. MPG, starting, driving, idling, and accelerating all feel the same. I hear no weird knocks or pinging coming from the engine, I don't feel a lack of acceleration from the timing being retarded, and idle is smooth.
Can the new altenator be part of the problem even though it's supplying proper voltage to the battery?
Is it possible that the OE altenator was supplying adequate voltage to the PCM but lower voltage to the battery while the TYC altenator is supplying adequate voltage to the battery but improper voltage to the PCM?
I've researched that improper voltage to the PCM/ECM can cause issues. The battery is an Interstate and was installed a year ago the day I test drove the car. I had none of these issues until I installed the TYC altenator 5 weeks ago. We easily and consistently had temps well below zero from December through January before I changed the altenator and I did not experience any issues with the TC/ABS. I replaced my brakes last summer but it still stops great and I experienced no ABS issues. The altenator also makes a slight and subtle whining sound that my OE never made.
I'm going to check and clean my EGR valve tomorrow as I've read it can contribute to the P0330. It can't hurt anyway with the amount of miles on he car. I'm going to have my OE altenator rebuilt and put that back in. This new TYC might have to be a $100 loss....
Any ideas or suggestions?
Thanks in advance.
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