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#4559224 - 10/30/17 11:37 AM Engine Fogging & Winterization
wings&wheels Offline


Registered: 12/05/03
Posts: 577
Loc: New England, USA
Hi, new to boating with a winterization question.

I am putting our new to us boat into the heated barn for the Winter to do some minor fluff and buff; 2nd battery, new radio, etc. This will be for this Winter's storage only.

Mercruiser 4.3L Carb Alpha One Gen 2.

My question is whether or not to fog and drain the engine?

1) Fogging-I never fog my other vehicles that get put away, but knowing that there is water/antifreeze somewhere in the exhaust manifolds & risers (basically pooled water in the path from the cylinders) is this necessary?

2) Draining-I ran antifreeze through the engine, but given that it will be inside, should I drain the engine? Basically, is it better to leave it filled w/ water/anti-freeze or mostly empty w/ the interior metal exposed to the air?

I'm sure I'll be fine either way, but I do get obsessive about maintenance, as do may of us here I suspect. Thanks.
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#4559309 - 10/30/17 01:51 PM Re: Engine Fogging & Winterization [Re: wings&wheels]
Donald Online   content


Registered: 03/21/04
Posts: 20446
Loc: Upstate NY
Fogging via the carb is what I have done with my boat. Often 2 cans at once trying to get it to stall. You can squirt oil into spark plug holes but better to do it via the carb. Removing plugs on engine with water cooled exhaust manifold is usually a PIA?

Is your engine raw or fresh water cooled? What kind of antifreeze? How did you get the antifreeze in the engine? Sucking in the antifreeze via muffs?
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#4559311 - 10/30/17 01:59 PM Re: Engine Fogging & Winterization [Re: wings&wheels]
CT8 Offline


Registered: 10/09/14
Posts: 10920
Loc: Idaho
You do not want water to freeze and I have never fogged an engine in any boats o]I have owned or anything else.
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#4559357 - 10/30/17 03:02 PM Re: Engine Fogging & Winterization [Re: wings&wheels]
Donald Online   content


Registered: 03/21/04
Posts: 20446
Loc: Upstate NY
If you filled the engine with antifreeze via sucking it in via muffs, then it should be all set ASSUMING the thermostat opened and you let it run long enough after thermostat opened so all the raw water in the block was replaced with antifreeze. I suggest draining some out from block drain into Dixie cup and putting it in freezer.

If you used real car antifreeze and not the pink RV stuff, it's best to dump it into a catch container in the spring so it does not get into lake or river.
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#4559392 - 10/30/17 04:07 PM Re: Engine Fogging & Winterization [Re: wings&wheels]
bullwinkle Offline


Registered: 10/09/04
Posts: 7649
Loc: Cincinnati, OH, USA
I personally drain & fill the manifolds AND block, that way you can be sure there's no water in it anywhere. I don't trust using the muffs enough, and fogging is always a good idea, both will prevent rust. I just remove the thermostat housing & stat & dump it right in the manifold (350 Mag Mercruiser).
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#4559447 - 10/30/17 05:22 PM Re: Engine Fogging & Winterization [Re: bullwinkle]
Donald Online   content


Registered: 03/21/04
Posts: 20446
Loc: Upstate NY
Originally Posted By: bullwinkle
I personally drain & fill the manifolds AND block, that way you can be sure there's no water in it anywhere. I don't trust using the muffs enough, and fogging is always a good idea, both will prevent rust. I just remove the thermostat housing & stat & dump it right in the manifold (350 Mag Mercruiser).


I do my engine in a similar manner. I drain the block using block drains and then pull the large hose off the thermostat housing and pour the antifreeze down that hose until the hose is full.

I also pull the hose going to the outdrive and pour antifreeze down that hose until it comes out of the outdrive intake.
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#4559707 - 10/30/17 09:25 PM Re: Engine Fogging & Winterization [Re: wings&wheels]
wings&wheels Offline


Registered: 12/05/03
Posts: 577
Loc: New England, USA
Thanks all.

I used West Marine pink antifreeze and gravity fed/sucked it through muffs into the lower unit after running the engine to normal operating temp on a hose.

I should have fogged the intake when I was running the antifreeze into the engine. I may just put the muffs on and feed antifreeze to them and enlist someone to crank the engine w/ the kill witch off while I spray the intake for a few seconds. I do not want to crank the engine w/o some fluid to the impeller.

I was never a boat guy, but my Wife is from a boating family so I gave in. Cleaning the scum off the hull this past weekend reminded me why I wasn't a boat guy grin

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#4559807 - 10/31/17 04:53 AM Re: Engine Fogging & Winterization [Re: wings&wheels]
lars11 Offline


Registered: 12/16/06
Posts: 968
Loc: Sweden
Avoiding cracked block etc is crucial if in freezing temps, either drain all water or use antifreeze. One extra upside with (propylene glycol with inhibitors) is that it will reduce corrosion compared to empty but wet block and exhausts. If you pick the -right kind- it is not poisonous so you can just turn the key in spring. (NOTE: you will have to check concentration of the antifreeze afterwards, if you mix a small amount with all the water in the block you may not be safe. Just math.)

Fogging... Sure if a lot of moisture, you could get some corrosion in the top end. I don't do the full spray can version but I mix some TCW3 in in the last fuel of the season. It will protect some and also improve fuel quality in spring.

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#4566089 - 11/06/17 04:50 PM Re: Engine Fogging & Winterization [Re: wings&wheels]
terminaldegree Online   content


Registered: 11/09/04
Posts: 422
Loc: central Georgia
When I lived in Wisconsin and the ski boat wintered in an uninsulated barn, I started up on the hose, ran it up to temperature, shutdown. Drained the exhaust, block, transmission cooler, and all other elbows and low points outside the engine, hooked everything back up, and started up with the raw water intake hose piped into a 5 gallon bucket full of RV antifreeze. Shutdown when bucket was empty. Because my boatís fuel injected, Iíd then drain the fuel filter canister, replace the fuel filter, pull the spark plugs and give a squirt of a 50/50 MMO/motor oil mix into each cylinder. Replace the plugs, and bump the starter a couple times with the fuel pump disengaged. Would finish up with an oil change.
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#4567403 - 11/08/17 05:26 AM Re: Engine Fogging & Winterization [Re: wings&wheels]
Silverado12 Offline


Registered: 02/26/13
Posts: 3110
Loc: Central Virginia
I also have a 4.3 Alpha One and the only thing I would do that you haven't done already is remove the drain plugs on the engine. There are 4 total. One at the bottom of each manifold and one on each side of the engine. Mine are blue plastic wing nut type plugs. Make sure you stick a paper clip, knife, etc. into the holes and make sure rust scale isn't preventing them from draining. This way you're sure there is nothing in the block that can possibly freeze and cause it to crack in case the heat fails in your garage.


Edited by Silverado12 (11/08/17 05:26 AM)
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#4567503 - 11/08/17 08:29 AM Re: Engine Fogging & Winterization [Re: wings&wheels]
DriveHard Offline


Registered: 11/24/03
Posts: 1062
Loc: Middle of Iowa
Start up and warm up on the hose
Shut down
Change oil and filter
Change out-drive oil (Super important! If water got mixed with the oil in the drive it can also freeze and crack the block!)
drain block and exhaust manifolds
remove hose running to raw water pump at back of pump
blow in hose to clear drive of water
replace hose
turn emergency shutdown switch "off"
open throttle to max
spray fogging oil (2 cans, one in each barrel) into throat of carb while wife cranks engine for count of ten
replace drain plugs
fill block with anti-freeze via hose at thermostat
replace hose at thermostat

Done...whole thing usually takes less than an hour.
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#4567675 - 11/08/17 10:56 AM Re: Engine Fogging & Winterization [Re: wings&wheels]
DoubleWasp Online   content


Registered: 05/21/12
Posts: 5236
Loc: Fort Lauderdale, FL
It should be mentioned for those who are sucking antifreeze into their engines that a 60/40 mix of antifreeze and water has a lower freezing point than straight antifreeze.

I'm a big believer in simply draining everything. Don't forget the water pump circulation hose, as it holds water even after draining block and manifolds.

Fogging is never a bad idea. Doesn't take as long as people think for surface rust to form on the cylinder walls.
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#4568315 - 11/08/17 08:57 PM Re: Engine Fogging & Winterization [Re: wings&wheels]
terminaldegree Online   content


Registered: 11/09/04
Posts: 422
Loc: central Georgia
DoubleWasp,

Iím talking about the RV, non-toxic stuff, not regular automotive stuff. Donít think the -50 (or whatever) RV formulation is intended to work as well in a partial concentration with water.
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#4568511 - 11/09/17 06:25 AM Re: Engine Fogging & Winterization [Re: wings&wheels]
alarmguy Offline


Registered: 07/10/12
Posts: 2146
Loc: South Carolina
Originally Posted By: wings&wheels
Hi, new to boating with a winterization question.

I am putting our new to us boat into the heated barn for the Winter to do some minor fluff and buff; 2nd battery, new radio, etc. This will be for this Winter's storage only.

Mercruiser 4.3L Carb Alpha One Gen 2.

My question is whether or not to fog and drain the engine?

1) Fogging-I never fog my other vehicles that get put away, but knowing that there is water/antifreeze somewhere in the exhaust manifolds & risers (basically pooled water in the path from the cylinders) is this necessary?

2) Draining-I ran antifreeze through the engine, but given that it will be inside, should I drain the engine? Basically, is it better to leave it filled w/ water/anti-freeze or mostly empty w/ the interior metal exposed to the air?

I'm sure I'll be fine either way, but I do get obsessive about maintenance, as do may of us here I suspect. Thanks.


For what its worth, been boating for 4 decades in NY until moving down south, most always had Mecruisers in every boat.
This is what I did every winter and always worked perfectly.

1. Heated engine up until hot, ran straight standard antifreeze through the engine using a 5 gallon bucket with a hose in the bucket, attached to the "muffins" that you put over the outdrive.
I would put a garden hose in the bucket to keep it full with fresh water while I ran the engine, once I had the engine nice and hot I would remove the garden hose, let the outdrive continue to suck some water out of the bucket, then at the last minute before the bucket would run dry I quickly pour in 2 gallons of STRAIGHT NON Diluted antifreeze.

2. ABOUT midway before the engine sucked all the anti freeze out of the bucket I would pour standard weight motor oil (10/30 or whatever) into the carburetor really smoking up the engine and pouring fast enough but not to fast that the engine would stall, once the bucket was almost dry of antifreeze I pour one last gulp of motor oil into the engine and if it doesn't stall simply turn the key off quickly. You really do not have to pour a heck of a lot oil in once you see the engine smoking good, at that point you can "stall it out" or just shut off the key.. as it is amazing, some of the newest FI mercs I have found its almost impossible to stall the engine! So I just turn off the key once rough running and smoking good.


Edited by alarmguy (11/09/17 06:34 AM)
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#4569634 - 11/10/17 08:51 AM Re: Engine Fogging & Winterization [Re: alarmguy]
wings&wheels Offline


Registered: 12/05/03
Posts: 577
Loc: New England, USA
Originally Posted By: alarmguy
For what its worth, been boating for 4 decades in NY until moving down south, most always had Mecruisers in every boat.
This is what I did every winter and always worked perfectly.

1. Heated engine up until hot, ran straight standard antifreeze through the engine using a 5 gallon bucket with a hose in the bucket, attached to the "muffins" that you put over the outdrive.
I would put a garden hose in the bucket to keep it full with fresh water while I ran the engine, once I had the engine nice and hot I would remove the garden hose, let the outdrive continue to suck some water out of the bucket, then at the last minute before the bucket would run dry I quickly pour in 2 gallons of STRAIGHT NON Diluted antifreeze.

2. ABOUT midway before the engine sucked all the anti freeze out of the bucket I would pour standard weight motor oil (10/30 or whatever) into the carburetor really smoking up the engine and pouring fast enough but not to fast that the engine would stall, once the bucket was almost dry of antifreeze I pour one last gulp of motor oil into the engine and if it doesn't stall simply turn the key off quickly. You really do not have to pour a heck of a lot oil in once you see the engine smoking good, at that point you can "stall it out" or just shut off the key.. as it is amazing, some of the newest FI mercs I have found its almost impossible to stall the engine! So I just turn off the key once rough running and smoking good.


Hi, this is essentially what I did except for using NAPA fogging oil in lieu of motor oil.

Thanks for all the replies.

_________________________
'05 Lotus Elise S/C
'85 Land Rover 90 diesel
'74 Triumph TR6
'72 Land Rover Series III 88"
'99 Porsche 996/'01 Boxster S (Wife's...)
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