Aftermarket turbo BRZ oil recommedations

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At the very minimum, you should be looking at an xW40 with A3/B4 approvals.

The only exception to this is Redline, which is preferable to all other lube.
 
Edge 0W40 A3/B4 or M1 10W30 HM A3/B3 (not the regular ILSAC M1 10W30, the High Mileage 10W30 that's Euro A3)

Or any oil that is rated Porsche A40
 
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What SR5 said.

And plenty of WRX owners are using 40 grades with good results. I'd avoid 30 grades as so many are resource conserving (thinner).

230F is higher than the KV100 spec. So your 30 would be acting more like a 20 grade at that temp (110C). That turbo is definitely warming up the oil
lol.gif
 
Since that is a DI (actually DI + PFI, which is a great setup) engine that you have now made into a DIT engine, LSPI might be a concern.
M1 5W30 ESP might be a good choice for you, it has a low calcium/near zero sodium formulation to help mitigate LSPI and a high HTHS for its grade (3.58). It also has a low NOACK loss of about 6% and a high 254C (489F) flashpoint, so it has a lot going for it in high temp applications.

The downsides are that it is pricey, somewhat hard to find, and has a low starting TBN that makes it a poor candidate for long OCIs. BITOG poster edyvw reported seeing it on sale at NAPA for ~$7/liter, I paid a little over $8/l for a 12l box on Amazon . M1 5W30 ESP is targeted to Euro diesel vehicles, but Mobil says it is also OK for gas engines (a fact which has apparently not made it to the ears of their customer service department).
 
Originally Posted By: subzerospeed
i recommend a medium grade viscosity with an awesome hths and film strength. Redline 5-30 is my recommendation to run. the 30 weight should be good for the clearances in the brz aka not too thick like that "redline 10w60" recommendation. and being that the oil is redline it will last long as [censored] and the shearing and deteriorating associated with lesser oils wont happen. RUN REDLINE YOU WONT HAVE OIL QUALITY ISSUES .

You realize the use of a humorous emoji in posting usually denotes an attempt at humor?
smile.gif
 
230F oil temps is pretty hot for a turbo. I own a few STI's and my oil temps never reach over 105C on my Defi gauges. I would recommend Motul 300V 0w40 or 5w40 which will provide stable oil pressure at high operating temperatures. I recommend getting an oil pressure gauge and see what the oil pressure is with your current oil. I'm usually at 5.2bar at 95C at 3000RPM highway cruising speed.
 
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
...To answer your question, I'd stick with a very robust 5W-30. With the port injection you shouldn't have to worry too much about deposits, right? Your main concern will be the turbo and trying not to spin a bearing. I'd pay as much money as I could to keep this thing running for as long as you can. Were there options for a coolant-cooled turbo for your BRZ?

Good luck! Sounds awesome!


I agree, he won't have to mess around with Subaru Top Engine Cleaner and its funky little tool like I was yesterday (have also run the Carbon Cleaner with the same tool). At least I didn't almost completely screw up a fairly simple procedure like I did last time...
 
My recommendation is a classic "use this, not that (0W40)," if you feel more comfortable using the recommended 30 wt viscosity:

In your application, I would use Amsoil's MCT, Metric 10W30, Motorcycle specific oil. 11.2@100C, 244C Flash point, 5.8 NOACK, 3.5 HTHS and a healthy 11.6 TBN. What's not to like?

For usage in high rpm, high stress engines. I have used it in other high temperature motor oil applications, where the manufacturer sticks to a 30 wt recommendation - air cooled,m outdoor power equipment or generators with a small oil capacity. It is overkill, overlooked and very stout!
 
Originally Posted By: stevo585
Originally Posted By: CT8
At least 0W-40 qnd get a pyrometer to let you see the turbo temps and let the turbo cool to around 300*f before shut down. I bet the torque increase makes the BRZ super.


You think a 0w40 huh?.. that's way thicker than OEM spec. The '15+ WRX which uses the same engine (except lower comp pistons) specs 5w30 which is why I went with that. But yes the extra torque is nice it really is a top end rocket! The car has 255 dur. cams stock more of a revvy top end motor. Its sitting around 285whp and 230wtq on a low boost conservative tune to save the clutch.

The whole pyrometer seems really inconvenient would like to avoid that. I do let it idle after pulls but just driving to work and putting around town I don't.

Subaru Japan allows 5W40 in a stock BRZ so no question an xW40 would be a good choice for you to run. The HTHS of Red Line 5W30 is 3.7 and the HTHS of M1 0W-0 is 3.6 and I would be comfortable running either (or any other ACEA A3/B4 oil).

If you intend to track it, definitely go with an oil cooler such as a Forester XT OEM oil cooler. The operating viscosity of the Mobil1 5W30 that you're running is very likely a 20 grade.

19.gif
 
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Originally Posted By: Virtus_Probi
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
...To answer your question, I'd stick with a very robust 5W-30. With the port injection you shouldn't have to worry too much about deposits, right? Your main concern will be the turbo and trying not to spin a bearing. I'd pay as much money as I could to keep this thing running for as long as you can. Were there options for a coolant-cooled turbo for your BRZ?

Good luck! Sounds awesome!


I agree, he won't have to mess around with Subaru Top Engine Cleaner and its funky little tool like I was yesterday (have also run the Carbon Cleaner with the same tool). At least I didn't almost completely screw up a fairly simple procedure like I did last time...


I'd love to hear more. Start a thread with pics, please!
 
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
Originally Posted By: stevo585
Originally Posted By: CT8
At least 0W-40 qnd get a pyrometer to let you see the turbo temps and let the turbo cool to around 300*f before shut down. I bet the torque increase makes the BRZ super.


You think a 0w40 huh?.. that's way thicker than OEM spec. The '15+ WRX which uses the same engine (except lower comp pistons) specs 5w30 which is why I went with that. But yes the extra torque is nice it really is a top end rocket! The car has 255 dur. cams stock more of a revvy top end motor. Its sitting around 285whp and 230wtq on a low boost conservative tune to save the clutch.

The whole pyrometer seems really inconvenient would like to avoid that. I do let it idle after pulls but just driving to work and putting around town I don't.


The WRX comes with a direct-injected turbo FA20F engine. Your direct AND port-injected N/A FA20D engine now has a turbo, so I'd say the change you implemented constitutes a less-than-conservative result. 285/230 at the wheels is a substantial gain over stock - HUGE!

Who tuned you and what boost levels you're running?

//

To answer your question, I'd stick with a very robust 5W-30. With the port injection you shouldn't have to worry too much about deposits, right? Your main concern will be the turbo and trying not to spin a bearing. I'd pay as much money as I could to keep this thing running for as long as you can. Were there options for a coolant-cooled turbo for your BRZ?

Good luck! Sounds awesome!


Well what I meant is that power level is considered "safe". I could push up to about 425whp with my turbo with the right fuel, clutch etc. Its tuned by HRI tuning who is one of the best tuners for the platform. Its street tuned, in person, on 9-10psi. We backed off 1-2 degrees of timing advance from the knock wall and afr at 11.5. Very safe and conservative. Sure there are lots of water cooled turbos like Garrett GTX series but I didn't want to spend 1600 for a turbo. I'm only 3-4k all in right now running a PTE 5431 MFS (billet wheel) journal bearing hence oil only.
 
Originally Posted By: Virtus_Probi
Since that is a DI (actually DI + PFI, which is a great setup) engine that you have now made into a DIT engine, LSPI might be a concern.
M1 5W30 ESP might be a good choice for you, it has a low calcium/near zero sodium formulation to help mitigate LSPI and a high HTHS for its grade (3.58). It also has a low NOACK loss of about 6% and a high 254C (489F) flashpoint, so it has a lot going for it in high temp applications.

The downsides are that it is pricey, somewhat hard to find, and has a low starting TBN that makes it a poor candidate for long OCIs. BITOG poster edyvw reported seeing it on sale at NAPA for ~$7/liter, I paid a little over $8/l for a 12l box on Amazon . M1 5W30 ESP is targeted to Euro diesel vehicles, but Mobil says it is also OK for gas engines (a fact which has apparently not made it to the ears of their customer service department).


In a way yes it is DIT but it never runs DI only its always some mix of PI too about 30%. Also my turbo doesn't spool super fast like an oem turbo. Its 3-4k range spool. LSPI is usually from high loads in a tall gear or low rpm which I generally cant even do. Its easy to avoid just be in the right gear...

The ESP is interesting doesn't seem to far off from the HM 10w30 which is easier to find.
 
Originally Posted By: bluesubie
Originally Posted By: stevo585
Originally Posted By: CT8
At least 0W-40 qnd get a pyrometer to let you see the turbo temps and let the turbo cool to around 300*f before shut down. I bet the torque increase makes the BRZ super.


You think a 0w40 huh?.. that's way thicker than OEM spec. The '15+ WRX which uses the same engine (except lower comp pistons) specs 5w30 which is why I went with that. But yes the extra torque is nice it really is a top end rocket! The car has 255 dur. cams stock more of a revvy top end motor. Its sitting around 285whp and 230wtq on a low boost conservative tune to save the clutch.

The whole pyrometer seems really inconvenient would like to avoid that. I do let it idle after pulls but just driving to work and putting around town I don't.

Subaru Japan allows 5W40 in a stock BRZ so no question an xW40 would be a good choice for you to run. The HTHS of Red Line 5W30 is 3.7 and the HTHS of M1 0W-0 is 3.6 and I would be comfortable running either (or any other ACEA A3/B4 oil).

If you intend to track it, definitely go with an oil cooler such as a Forester XT OEM oil cooler. The operating viscosity of the Mobil1 5W30 that you're running is very likely a 20 grade.

19.gif



Did not know that, quite a spread from a 0w-20 usdm to a 5w40 jdm spec. I'll probably run a either M1 HM 10W30 or M1 0-40. Something ACEA A3/B3 as others have suggested seems like that spec is for DIT engines.

Not sure I'm sold the redline is worth 2X the cost. I'm only going to do 5k OCI max anyways. Probably pick an above and do a UOA at 3k. And of course invest in a Forester XT OEM oil cooler I see they are only about $250 for the parts.
 
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