Saturn sohc rebuilt

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spasm3

spasm3

Joined
May 30, 2010
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Location
North Carolina
Finally got the engine installed and fired it up today!! It runs quiet!
You can see the teardown pics here.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...bui#Post3914624

My cost was about $900.

Rebuild pics..

Old scored cam.


Replacement used cam, new ones not available.


Crank and main bearings installed.


Checking ring gap.



I snapped a rod bolt off, so i replaced all of them

I used craftsman torque wrench for all the rods mains and head bolts.


I prefer to use a ring expander for installing rings. Its a simple one.

Lubed the cylinder with a mix of 5w30 oil and Schaeffer's 132


I used my old craftsman ring compressor.







Lubes i used for the main and rod bearings, and the moly paste for the cam. I've had the moly paste for a long time.

Cam install.

Some lifters had to be replaced. I filled them all with oil just before installing.


Installed the timing set, i forgot to take pics of the guides and tensioner,lubed with molypaste. sorry.



The oil pump was scored as well as the cover.


I sanded the cover down on a piece of glass until the scored gaps were gone, i finished it up with a 400 grit. I installed new pump gears.


I forget to stop and get pics of the rear main seal install and the front timing cover. And i neglected to take pics of installing the new luk clutch set. Sorry!

I filled the engine 1/2 quart over with oil, so it would fill the pickup tube a bit higher. The Oil pump was filled up and the oil filter was also prefilled. I usually use a 3600 filter on saturns, but i wanted to get oil pressure up a soon as possible so i used the shorter 3614.
After all the fluids were filled up and checked for leaks. I hooked my charge/starter to the battery and set it for 200 amp starting. I wanted the starter to spin as fast as possible with the spark plugs out of the head. About 5 seconds and the oil light went out. I installed the spark plugs and it stared right up.

No CEL's!!!
 
Last edited:
thumbsup2.gif
- thanks for the pics !
 
I should have mentioned, that prior to assembley, i washed the block down with soap and water and rinsed. It took two cleanings of the bores for a white cotton cloth to be clean after wiping the bores. The crank was polished and standard size. I also cleaned the crank and used large pipe cleaners and ran them through all the oil holes of the crank.

The block was bored over .5mm or .020. and finished 600 grit for moly rings. The head did not have to be resurfaced nor did the block need resurfacing.

Pistons were enginetech ( silvolite)
Bearings were sealed power and also the oil pump.
Rings were sealed power moly
timing set was sealed power.
victor reinz gasket set. Victor reinz head bolts.
A member suggested toyota black sealant for the pan and timing cover. I used that, no leaks!
Clutch was a LUK rep set.

The subframe was bent from an accident he had, so we replaced it with a u pull it subframe, while the engine was out. Now maybe we can get it aligned!
 
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Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
A little off-topic...

How do you like that Craftsman torque wrench?


Works great. I just don't trust the clicker wrenches for this. I use a clicker for lug nuts, but not an engine.
You have to make sure you line of sight is right over the scale to be accurate.
 
Looks like a good job. Nice pics, and good progress.

I notice the head does have a quench pad and it looks like the pistons are down the hole about 0.030... So that added to the compressed head gasket thickness will likely end you up at around 60 thou for quench...

Will be OK, but targeting 40 thou will allow a bit more aggressive timing, and that means power and fuel economy. Just a minor thing, but it might have been worth surfacing the block to tighten it up a smidge...
 
Originally Posted By: spasm3
About 5 seconds and the oil light went out.
during the first start? I have done a lot rebuilds, yes they were all Toyota...I lubed all moving parts with Ultra Slick, I didn't so called "prime" the oil pump either, never seen the oil light on (maybe less then a second?), is it the engine design or was something off on yours?
 
Originally Posted By: 01_celica_gt
Originally Posted By: spasm3
About 5 seconds and the oil light went out.
during the first start? I have done a lot rebuilds, yes they were all Toyota...I lubed all moving parts with Ultra Slick, I didn't so called "prime" the oil pump either, never seen the oil light on (maybe less then a second?), is it the engine design or was something off on yours?


I left the spark plugs out and spun the engine over without compression, It might have only been 1- 2 seconds or so. I basically let it crank until the oil light went out. then installed the plugs and cranked it up.
 
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Looks like a good job. Nice pics, and good progress.

I notice the head does have a quench pad and it looks like the pistons are down the hole about 0.030... So that added to the compressed head gasket thickness will likely end you up at around 60 thou for quench...

Will be OK, but targeting 40 thou will allow a bit more aggressive timing, and that means power and fuel economy. Just a minor thing, but it might have been worth surfacing the block to tighten it up a smidge...


The edge of the pistons are about flush maybe .010. They are dished pistons, not many choices for pistons unless you spend for custom. This is low output fuel economy engine. It got 45pg hwy, but it did not have anywhere near full valve lift on one cyl due to the scored cam. Not sure if it will get that same mpg. We will see.
 
Way to go!

Thanks for the pictures and tutorials.

It is casual threads like this that help laymans (or light duty mechanics) really break the ice on learning more. It kind of gets our foot in the door or gets our feet wet just being around.

You laid the oil pump on glass to sand it. Well, sand makes up glass, right? Sounds like an old timer's secret.
 
I noticed you used Sealed Power rings,i used then
in the 1960,s and 70,s and found at that time
they were the best piston rings. Never had a problem
at all with them. By the way nice build...Gordon
 
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28

You laid the oil pump on glass to sand it. Well, sand makes up glass, right? Sounds like an old timer's secret.


I taped down the sand paper to a piece of glass. I worked the cover over the sandpaper covered glass in multible directions. I used glass as it is the flattest surface i had to work with.

Thanks for the comments.

I'm going the change the filter due to the moly assembly paste, and then the oil and filter again in 100 miles.

Now i have to decide if i'm going to run 5w 30 syn or a 0w 40 after it breaks in a bit.
 
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