I think someone told me a lie...not sure.

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Lies, no, but some misconceptions that have a ring of truth to them. Back in those days, synthetics were made from group IV and up and PAO base stocks. Also, the conventional oils were primary group 1 base stock. The gap between the two was quite large and on a high mileage motor that only ran on conventional, the synthetics could cause leaks and extra oil consumption.

Today the gap between conventionals and synthetics is much, much smaller. Conventional oils now have group II+ and some group III base stocks, while most synthetics are primarily made from Group III. So switching between the two, in most cases, will cause no problems.

As far as engines lasting longer on synthetics, unless manufacturing specifications require the use of synthetic oils, there is absolutely no evidence that engines running synthetic oils last longer. Lots of hot air on the internet forums, but no hard facts or studies.
 
Originally Posted By: raytseng
well, on the other hand, your car is now 23 years old, so whatever worked for 23years just keep doing whatever you're doing. How much longer are you expecting as a "lifetime", and what "benefit" are you trying to acheive by changing now 23years later?

It's like telling a 80year old to stop eating mcdonalds and stop smoking cigarettes. Sure it may help, but it's not already dead, whatever worked did fine. You cannot roll back the clock to take a do over on it.


I must agree with this, wholeheartedly. Why change now? Sure, it might help.. it might give you the option of longer OCI, but really, why change? Stick with what has gotten your car to 23 years.

I certainly don't think it would hurt though. I just wonder if the extra added cost would equate to any real benefit in that car.
 
In case you are interested, Synthetic is more a marketing term that a reality. In the old days it truly was synthesized oil. But a while back some oil companies went to prove the very highly refined dino oil met the same criteria and were therefore allowed to use the term "Synthetic" in the description of the oils the sold. It is common now and somewhat misleading...

But, there is nothing wrong with these oils. Highly refined petroleum is as good as some lab made oils. Most can easily go 5,000 miles between changes and some 7,500 without concern (at which point you are likely to be changing yours anyway).

So in truth, 90% of the oils out there that you see the word synthetic on are actually a blend. True PAO synthetics are available like Motul 300v Ester, but they are very expensive - like $19/qt.

If I had a new to me 20 year old car (I have 20~40 year old cars mostly). I'd get the oil changed and put a decent filter on it and use something like Valvoline Maxlife 5W-30 in the red bottle (syn-blend) for the first round and see how it goes... If not to many drips and drops and it sounds and runs well, keep it up. If it does not seem to go well, come back and tell us and we'll see where to go from there
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Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
In case you are interested, Synthetic is more a marketing term that a reality. In the old days it truly was synthesized oil. But a while back some oil companies went to prove the very highly refined dino oil met the same criteria and were therefore allowed to use the term "Synthetic" in the description of the oils the sold. It is common now and somewhat misleading...

But, there is nothing wrong with these oils. Highly refined petroleum is as good as some lab made oils. Most can easily go 5,000 miles between changes and some 7,500 without concern (at which point you are likely to be changing yours anyway).

So in truth, 90% of the oils out there that you see the word synthetic on are actually a blend. True PAO synthetics are available like Motul 300v Ester, but they are very expensive - like $19/qt.

If I had a new to me 20 year old car (I have 20~40 year old cars mostly). I'd get the oil changed and put a decent filter on it and use something like Valvoline Maxlife 5W-30 in the red bottle (syn-blend) for the first round and see how it goes... If not to many drips and drops and it sounds and runs well, keep it up. If it does not seem to go well, come back and tell us and we'll see where to go from there
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Should we pay attention to result or a name ?

The current synthetic may not pass the German definition of "Full Synthetic", but if it is much better than dino of yesteryear then who care if it isn't real synthetic.
 
No we don't care. PYB is a mostly unlabeled blend, Motorcraft, is labeled a blend and so is Maxlife, etc. They are not really that far apart if your yard stick is Motul 300V Ester... All are very good oils compared to yesteryear, no argument there
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They sell upmarket versions labeled "Synthetic" that are actually just better blends w/o being what some Euro specs would call "Full Synthetic".

Does it make a difference? Not really. Is it marketing - yes. Do folks buy into it - yes
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Just pointing out to BuickGirl that you have to take it all with a grain of salt. Look for an oil that will meet engine specs and last long enough to get to the next oil change.

Unless she's going to put the hammer down on this motor a LOT. In that case be looking further up the food chain... And that's also my point - going up the food chain needs a reason/rational
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I figured I could use synthetic, as I had been for a long time. The main thing was someone saying I could take the cheap route. No thanks, I will pay a few more bucks and get something name brand. I did just replace the engine in him because someone who worked on my car had no idea what they were doing. I do love the 3800 engines. I actually have two Park Avenues. I'll just stick with what I want and if someone wants to say be a cheapskate then I will just ignore them. I'm not talking buying Amsoil or anything. Maybe some Valvoline, Castrol, or Mobil 1, etc. But nothing cheap and no cheap filters for sure. I have been using the AC Delco filters and I will stick with those because that's what I'm used to. Also, I just used $1 Walmart or Dollar store items as a statement. I do know they have cheap oil at the Dollar store here, but I wouldn't buy it. Anything name brand I am cool with. I'll just stick to dino for now since this engine only has 84,000 miles on it. However, mine went 251,000 up until some idiot ruined it. It would've went further had someone not ruined it. The mechanic was surprised at how clean my 251,000 mile engine was. I take care of my baby and so did my grandpa when he owned him.
 
Mainly I was just trying to prove someone wrong because people do get misinformed reading things online. Dino 10W-30 is fine for me along with an AC Delco filter. I change my own oil, it's rather easy on my car. I prefer doing my own car repairs because it's cheaper and I trust my work.
 
Originally Posted By: BuickGirl
Mainly I was just trying to prove someone wrong because people do get misinformed reading things online. Dino 10W-30 is fine for me along with an AC Delco filter. I change my own oil, it's rather easy on my car. I prefer doing my own car repairs because it's cheaper and I trust my work.

Good for you. Post pics of your Park Avenues!
 
Originally Posted By: BuickGirl
I figured I could use synthetic, as I had been for a long time. The main thing was someone saying I could take the cheap route. No thanks, I will pay a few more bucks and get something name brand.

Exactly. What you've always been doing is fine. There are very few cars where a synthetic might be forbidden, and I can't think of any of them with a Buick badge.
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