Hello, and do any of you folks use conventional for some of the year and then switch to syn and back for winter or vice versa? I mainly use synthetic year round.
Anyone switch from conventional to synthetic?
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Well I just put pennzoil platinum in my 13' forte and plan on runnig the full 7500 oci per my manual.. And I have considered using conventional in the summer because cold starts and fuel dilution aren't as bad in the summer. I haven't done it yet.. But it may be my plan going forward.
That is exactly what I do. 4 changes a year, a short one on conventional in the summer, spring and fall a blend, and a very good syn for the duration of winter.
Originally Posted By: GutsyGecko
That is exactly what I do. 4 changes a year, a short one on conventional in the summer, spring and fall a blend, and a very good syn for the duration of winter.
Sounds like a waste!
That is exactly what I do. 4 changes a year, a short one on conventional in the summer, spring and fall a blend, and a very good syn for the duration of winter.
Sounds like a waste!
I went to synthetic at the first oil change (1200 miles) and just run synthetic for the length the oil life monitor says, down to below 10% left. Year round.
Originally Posted By: TiredTrucker
I went to synthetic at the first oil change (1200 miles) and just run synthetic for the length the oil life monitor says, down to below 10% left. Year round.
That's a much better way to do it!
I went to synthetic at the first oil change (1200 miles) and just run synthetic for the length the oil life monitor says, down to below 10% left. Year round.
That's a much better way to do it!
The Dakota currently has synthetic with a Mobil 1 filter that I'll run until at least March. Once the weather gets warmer, I'll go back to conventional and 3 month/3,000 mile changes.
This is done for my benefit, not the truck's, as I don't have a heated garage to do changes over the winter months, and I see no reason to pay $30-$35 to the local Dodge dealer for an oil change in January.
This is done for my benefit, not the truck's, as I don't have a heated garage to do changes over the winter months, and I see no reason to pay $30-$35 to the local Dodge dealer for an oil change in January.
For just about $5 more for synthetic there's not much reason to use conventional in a new car
true lubedude13
Originally Posted By: lubedude13
For just about $5 more for synthetic there's not much reason to use conventional in a new car
+1.....IMO, you should go synthetic all year long. For just a few $$$ more per oil change, you can have all the benifits of a synthetic, which when your out of warrenty, and have normal driving habits....can go 10,000 between Oil changes.
Mobil 1 0w20 AFE... would be a great year-round oil (if your vehicle is spected for a 20)....with many on this site doing 10K OCI's.
For just about $5 more for synthetic there's not much reason to use conventional in a new car
+1.....IMO, you should go synthetic all year long. For just a few $$$ more per oil change, you can have all the benifits of a synthetic, which when your out of warrenty, and have normal driving habits....can go 10,000 between Oil changes.
Mobil 1 0w20 AFE... would be a great year-round oil (if your vehicle is spected for a 20)....with many on this site doing 10K OCI's.
Not typically.
I always have lots of cheaply aquired syn on hand, so I generally use it in our newer cars.
If I happen to have some conventional I bought dirt cheap, I'll run it during warmer weather.
Please remember that any oil meeting the specs your car requires will perform just fine in use.
If conventional oil is adequate to the needs of your engine, then using syn will not provide any better protection.
If oil X does the job with no stress, then oil X+ can't do any better.
Extended drains with syn?
Dave Newton blew that idea away with a good UOA of ST conventional from his own minivan.
I always have lots of cheaply aquired syn on hand, so I generally use it in our newer cars.
If I happen to have some conventional I bought dirt cheap, I'll run it during warmer weather.
Please remember that any oil meeting the specs your car requires will perform just fine in use.
If conventional oil is adequate to the needs of your engine, then using syn will not provide any better protection.
If oil X does the job with no stress, then oil X+ can't do any better.
Extended drains with syn?
Dave Newton blew that idea away with a good UOA of ST conventional from his own minivan.
93 Metro xfi 70k. bought with 40k, syn since then
i will be going with castrol titanium 0w-20 at the next service.
last geo had a complete rebuild with performance cam and milled head. ran syn in that engine from day one. ran 125k plus tons of idle time sold it 5yrs ago and still see it on the road running strong. the guy says he still uses syn @ 10-12+k oci's
ken
i will be going with castrol titanium 0w-20 at the next service.
last geo had a complete rebuild with performance cam and milled head. ran syn in that engine from day one. ran 125k plus tons of idle time sold it 5yrs ago and still see it on the road running strong. the guy says he still uses syn @ 10-12+k oci's
ken
I switched from conventional to synthetic in my RAM last oil change, I used Valvoline Maxlife 10W-30. It's pretty good stuff, I replaced the valve cover gaskets the other day and it was relatively clean under there.
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Not typically.
I always have lots of cheaply aquired syn on hand, so I generally use it in our newer cars.
If I happen to have some conventional I bought dirt cheap, I'll run it during warmer weather.
Please remember that any oil meeting the specs your car requires will perform just fine in use.
If conventional oil is adequate to the needs of your engine, then using syn will not provide any better protection.
If oil X does the job with no stress, then oil X+ can't do any better.
Extended drains with syn?
Dave Newton blew that idea away with a good UOA of ST conventional from his own minivan.
Yeah, I'll base my car maintenance on what Dave Newton does. (sarcasm)
Not typically.
I always have lots of cheaply aquired syn on hand, so I generally use it in our newer cars.
If I happen to have some conventional I bought dirt cheap, I'll run it during warmer weather.
Please remember that any oil meeting the specs your car requires will perform just fine in use.
If conventional oil is adequate to the needs of your engine, then using syn will not provide any better protection.
If oil X does the job with no stress, then oil X+ can't do any better.
Extended drains with syn?
Dave Newton blew that idea away with a good UOA of ST conventional from his own minivan.
Yeah, I'll base my car maintenance on what Dave Newton does. (sarcasm)
Well, what Dnewton3 does is what some folks I know should do in all fairness and honesty. After readiing his advice and learning from him; I may just do what he is doing. Whether I use QSGB or ST oil. I see ST Syn oil has a nice dose of BORON, but havent saw a recent VOA of the 5w20 or 5w30 to know if conventioinal has that same shot of boron.
I just use whatever I have in my stockpile, 5k for dino and 7.5k for synthetic.
My LS400 OCI is a little longer, 6-8k/6mo with dino and 12-15k/12mo with syn, the FCI is once a year(re-use filter with dino). The E430 is 12-13k/12mo with syn only.
Yeah, why pay any attention to a guy who's made an avocation of studying masses of UOAs, applying statistiscal analysis to them and then putting into practice what he's learned, while proving his hypothesis?
We should go by our guts instead.
We should go by our guts instead.
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Yeah, why pay any attention to a guy who's made an avocation of studying masses of UOAs, applying statistiscal analysis to them and then putting into practice what he's learned, while proving his hypothesis?
We should go by our guts instead.
I prefer to follow my owners manual, and not overthink it. I refuse to play Russian roulette with my cars. I plan on keeping them for 15-20 years. But all you Extended oil change worshipers can do whatever you want. My 9 year old civic, that I bought new, does not use any oil between changes. Inside the oil fill hole is spotless. FWIW, I just bought a 2013 civic and plan to change oil based on the oil minder system. No UOA's needed!!!
Yeah, why pay any attention to a guy who's made an avocation of studying masses of UOAs, applying statistiscal analysis to them and then putting into practice what he's learned, while proving his hypothesis?
We should go by our guts instead.
I prefer to follow my owners manual, and not overthink it. I refuse to play Russian roulette with my cars. I plan on keeping them for 15-20 years. But all you Extended oil change worshipers can do whatever you want. My 9 year old civic, that I bought new, does not use any oil between changes. Inside the oil fill hole is spotless. FWIW, I just bought a 2013 civic and plan to change oil based on the oil minder system. No UOA's needed!!!
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