I live near Indianapolis and would like to know where to take a vehicle to get the rotors turned on the vehicle. This is supposed to keep runout much truer and would like to try it. Thanks.
Where to go for on the vehicle rotor turning?
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try oreileys if you have one there. They charge about $15 per rotor or drum.
Some NAPA stores also do them. Check with your local NAPA.
Some NAPA stores also do them. Check with your local NAPA.
Originally Posted By: Sawdusted
try oreileys of you have one there. They charge about $15 per rotor or drum.
Some NAPA stores also do them. Check with your local NAPA.
He wants them turned while on the car
Haven't had that done for years, had a Civic that almost required this (local Honda dealer cut them for me)
try oreileys of you have one there. They charge about $15 per rotor or drum.
Some NAPA stores also do them. Check with your local NAPA.
He wants them turned while on the car
Haven't had that done for years, had a Civic that almost required this (local Honda dealer cut them for me)
Haha... Didn't see the 2nd part.
Only garages will have the on-board brake lathe. It's not a cheap investment.
Only garages will have the on-board brake lathe. It's not a cheap investment.
There should be plenty of places that can do it for you.
I don't do a lot of brake jobs (I do between 50 and 100 per year), but in my experience it is seldom worthwhile to turn rotors. In the last year we have had two pairs of rotors and one pair of drums turned for customers.
1. Use high quality new "guaranteed true" rotors. I use a brand called Ruville which are made by the same company that makes LuK clutches. If I can't get Ruville I use Autopar or Raybestos, both of which are often made by Ruville. Look for a crosshatch finish and narrow vents.
2. Use high quality brake pads, preferably ceramic. A lot of rotor "run out" is really material deposited on the rotors by cheap pads.
3. Thoroughly clean hub:rotor mating surface with wire brush, a thin coat of production oven or brake grease on the hub face will prevent further rusting and help reduce brake noise.
4. Torque lug nuts evenly in a star pattern to torque spec.
I don't do a lot of brake jobs (I do between 50 and 100 per year), but in my experience it is seldom worthwhile to turn rotors. In the last year we have had two pairs of rotors and one pair of drums turned for customers.
1. Use high quality new "guaranteed true" rotors. I use a brand called Ruville which are made by the same company that makes LuK clutches. If I can't get Ruville I use Autopar or Raybestos, both of which are often made by Ruville. Look for a crosshatch finish and narrow vents.
2. Use high quality brake pads, preferably ceramic. A lot of rotor "run out" is really material deposited on the rotors by cheap pads.
3. Thoroughly clean hub:rotor mating surface with wire brush, a thin coat of production oven or brake grease on the hub face will prevent further rusting and help reduce brake noise.
4. Torque lug nuts evenly in a star pattern to torque spec.
Originally Posted By: Cardenio327
There should be plenty of places that can do it for you.
I don't do a lot of brake jobs (I do between 50 and 100 per year), but in my experience it is seldom worthwhile to turn rotors. In the last year we have had two pairs of rotors and one pair of drums turned for customers.
1. Use high quality new "guaranteed true" rotors. I use a brand called Ruville which are made by the same company that makes LuK clutches. If I can't get Ruville I use Autopar or Raybestos, both of which are often made by Ruville. Look for a crosshatch finish and narrow vents.
2. Use high quality brake pads, preferably ceramic. A lot of rotor "run out" is really material deposited on the rotors by cheap pads.
3. Thoroughly clean hub:rotor mating surface with wire brush, a thin coat of production oven or brake grease on the hub face will prevent further rusting and help reduce brake noise.
4. Torque lug nuts evenly in a star pattern to torque spec.
Good advice.
I was going to get mine turned recently then found out I can get a good set new after discount.
There should be plenty of places that can do it for you.
I don't do a lot of brake jobs (I do between 50 and 100 per year), but in my experience it is seldom worthwhile to turn rotors. In the last year we have had two pairs of rotors and one pair of drums turned for customers.
1. Use high quality new "guaranteed true" rotors. I use a brand called Ruville which are made by the same company that makes LuK clutches. If I can't get Ruville I use Autopar or Raybestos, both of which are often made by Ruville. Look for a crosshatch finish and narrow vents.
2. Use high quality brake pads, preferably ceramic. A lot of rotor "run out" is really material deposited on the rotors by cheap pads.
3. Thoroughly clean hub:rotor mating surface with wire brush, a thin coat of production oven or brake grease on the hub face will prevent further rusting and help reduce brake noise.
4. Torque lug nuts evenly in a star pattern to torque spec.
Good advice.
I was going to get mine turned recently then found out I can get a good set new after discount.
AFAIK Nissan require rotors to have a max. runout of 0.001!, so maybe their dealers. Also in the EBC brakes website they recommend to do it and they even have a webpage where you put your zip and gives you the places that have it, around us is a Pepboys, not all of them just one and a bunch of dealerships for different brands of cars. I hope it is of some help
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
Don't even waste your time and money turning rotors.
Buy new ones.
Sometimes it makes sense to turn, especially captive rotors.
For example, my Pathfinder has captive rotors mounted behind the wheel hub. The entire wheel hub needs to come off to change rotors. Labor to remove is close to 2-3 hours to R&R. Unless you're doing the brake job yourself (free labor), it may be feasible to turn the rotors.
Also OEM rotors are plenty thick to turn if the runnout is not too bad.
It would make sense to turn them once, then replace on the next set.
Don't even waste your time and money turning rotors.
Buy new ones.
Sometimes it makes sense to turn, especially captive rotors.
For example, my Pathfinder has captive rotors mounted behind the wheel hub. The entire wheel hub needs to come off to change rotors. Labor to remove is close to 2-3 hours to R&R. Unless you're doing the brake job yourself (free labor), it may be feasible to turn the rotors.
Also OEM rotors are plenty thick to turn if the runnout is not too bad.
It would make sense to turn them once, then replace on the next set.
This is the webpage http://www.procutusa.com/zipfind.aspx
90-97 accords are this way, good luck finding a shop with a on the car brake lathe
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Any Ford dealer should have this
This, ford dealers are required to have the on car machines.
Any Ford dealer should have this
This, ford dealers are required to have the on car machines.
I asked around and could not find any places. But from mene's post there is a website that lists quite a few. Regardless the indy shops do not seem to do much in the way of machining rotors of any kind.
I wonder how much it costs? For me it was rotors from my Dodge Ram where the rotor and hub are one piece.
I wonder how much it costs? For me it was rotors from my Dodge Ram where the rotor and hub are one piece.
Where can you find Ruville Rotors? I googled it and not much on them. Thanks.
The tire shop I worked at in college had an on-the-car lathe in addition to the normal lathe, and it was just a tire shop that also did brakes.
Originally Posted By: spk2000
Where can you find Ruville Rotors? I googled it and not much on them. Thanks.
They don't sell them under their own brand in the states. Some Raybestos Service Grade and most Raybestos Professional Grade are made by Ruville in China or Brazil. They can be identified by a pronounced crosshatch finish on the braking surface, heavy castings with narrower than usual vent slots and have the specs stamped into the disc edge or engraved onto the outer hat surface. I use them on my family's vehicles and have installed them on countless customers' rides.
Another good one is Brembo, but they don't machine a crosshatch finish into the braking surface. They leave a spiral surface behind just like a brake lathe, which can cause problems with ATE Teaves and other brands of calipers.
Where can you find Ruville Rotors? I googled it and not much on them. Thanks.
They don't sell them under their own brand in the states. Some Raybestos Service Grade and most Raybestos Professional Grade are made by Ruville in China or Brazil. They can be identified by a pronounced crosshatch finish on the braking surface, heavy castings with narrower than usual vent slots and have the specs stamped into the disc edge or engraved onto the outer hat surface. I use them on my family's vehicles and have installed them on countless customers' rides.
Another good one is Brembo, but they don't machine a crosshatch finish into the braking surface. They leave a spiral surface behind just like a brake lathe, which can cause problems with ATE Teaves and other brands of calipers.
Originally Posted By: Sawdusted
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
Don't even waste your time and money turning rotors.
Buy new ones.
Sometimes it makes sense to turn, especially captive rotors.
For example, my Pathfinder has captive rotors mounted behind the wheel hub. The entire wheel hub needs to come off to change rotors. Labor to remove is close to 2-3 hours to R&R. Unless you're doing the brake job yourself (free labor), it may be feasible to turn the rotors.
Also OEM rotors are plenty thick to turn if the runnout is not too bad.
It would make sense to turn them once, then replace on the next set.
Given that scenario, I agree with you.
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
Don't even waste your time and money turning rotors.
Buy new ones.
Sometimes it makes sense to turn, especially captive rotors.
For example, my Pathfinder has captive rotors mounted behind the wheel hub. The entire wheel hub needs to come off to change rotors. Labor to remove is close to 2-3 hours to R&R. Unless you're doing the brake job yourself (free labor), it may be feasible to turn the rotors.
Also OEM rotors are plenty thick to turn if the runnout is not too bad.
It would make sense to turn them once, then replace on the next set.
Given that scenario, I agree with you.
Originally Posted By: yonyon
In addition to Ford dealers, Honda dealers and Firestone stores should have a Procut machine. Ford, Honda, Nissan, and Isuzu all have some vehicles with rotors that are all-but-impossible to machine on a bench lathe.
I never worked at or saw a Firestone store with an on-vehicle brake lathe. I only saw conventional lathes.
In addition to Ford dealers, Honda dealers and Firestone stores should have a Procut machine. Ford, Honda, Nissan, and Isuzu all have some vehicles with rotors that are all-but-impossible to machine on a bench lathe.
I never worked at or saw a Firestone store with an on-vehicle brake lathe. I only saw conventional lathes.
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