Greetings, I searched this question but came up dry. The car is an 2007 Saturn Aura 3.6l v6 non DI engine. Current mileage 130k, Its had synthetic oil every 5k since new. Car sees about 90% hwy use. Is this stuff too thick for my engine? Thanks.
Mobil 1 0w-40 for GM 3.6l ?
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I'd use 5W30 which GM specs for that engine. You could also use Mobil 1 AFE 0W30. There is really no need for 0W40 unless you're burning a lot of oil and want to try something a little "thicker" in an attempt to slow it down.
I run M1 0w40 in my 3.6l. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2485360
You probably would bet better UOA's running that than a 30w. The 3.6 is a beast on oil.
I would run the speccd oil unless you are having an issue. Are you having any oil related issues?
No issues, no leaks or usage. Isn't M1 0w-40 close to a 30wt at operating temps? The reason for switching: I've always thought it was a very stout oil and we drive a lot. I was wanting to go from 5k oci up to 7k or 8k miles. Also, I was going to run it in my Suburban, having one oil would be nice.
The viscosity range for a 40 weight is approximately 11.6cSt-14.5cSt at 100C while Mobil 1 0W40 is showing 13.40 cSt on the last VOA of API SN I saw. Its not exactly close to the 30 weight range but it will surely work fine and is an extended drain product.
9.1cSt-11.3cSt is the 30 weight viscosity at 100c
9.1cSt-11.3cSt is the 30 weight viscosity at 100c
OVERKILL
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Originally Posted By: gregk24
I would stick with a 30 weight. Mobil 1 0w40 might be ok at operating temp, but at start up it will be much thicker.
Depends on what you are comparing it to and at what temp. At -35C I'll take the 0w-40 over a conventional 5w-30
I would stick with a 30 weight. Mobil 1 0w40 might be ok at operating temp, but at start up it will be much thicker.
Depends on what you are comparing it to and at what temp. At -35C I'll take the 0w-40 over a conventional 5w-30
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: gregk24
I would stick with a 30 weight. Mobil 1 0w40 might be ok at operating temp, but at start up it will be much thicker.
Depends on what you are comparing it to and at what temp. At -35C I'll take the 0w-40 over a conventional 5w-30
Dont think that is an issue for the OP
Originally Posted By: gregk24
I would stick with a 30 weight. Mobil 1 0w40 might be ok at operating temp, but at start up it will be much thicker.
Depends on what you are comparing it to and at what temp. At -35C I'll take the 0w-40 over a conventional 5w-30
Dont think that is an issue for the OP
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: gregk24
I would stick with a 30 weight. Mobil 1 0w40 might be ok at operating temp, but at start up it will be much thicker.
Depends on what you are comparing it to and at what temp. At -35C I'll take the 0w-40 over a conventional 5w-30
Dont think that is an issue for the OP
I'm sure Colorado gets reasonably cold though
@ 40C, PYB is 63.9cSt vs 75cSt for the 0w-40. Not much of a difference.
At -40C, PYB isn't pouring. M1 0w-40 is 31,000cP. At -35C, M1 0w-40 is roughly half that @ ~15,500cP. PYB 5w-30 is 15,900cP (heavier).
And the slopes would go that way for a bit (the 0w-40 being lighter) up until they cross at some point below 0C.
So it all just depends on your reference temperature
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: gregk24
I would stick with a 30 weight. Mobil 1 0w40 might be ok at operating temp, but at start up it will be much thicker.
Depends on what you are comparing it to and at what temp. At -35C I'll take the 0w-40 over a conventional 5w-30
Dont think that is an issue for the OP
I'm sure Colorado gets reasonably cold though
@ 40C, PYB is 63.9cSt vs 75cSt for the 0w-40. Not much of a difference.
At -40C, PYB isn't pouring. M1 0w-40 is 31,000cP. At -35C, M1 0w-40 is roughly half that @ ~15,500cP. PYB 5w-30 is 15,900cP (heavier).
And the slopes would go that way for a bit (the 0w-40 being lighter) up until they cross at some point below 0C.
So it all just depends on your reference temperature
It's already been determined that M1 0w40 performs admirably in the coldest of winters. At a certain point you just need to have block/pan heaters for comfort rather than the engine. While Colorado can get pretty cold the average is fine for the M1 0w40.
This stuff is just so tempting since Walmarto Started offering it in the 5 Quart jugs for $25.00 The other option is just running the Mobil 1 EP 5w-30. Its only 2 dollars more.
Yes it has the olm. I have been doing the 5k oci to stay ahead of any timing chain issues. And yes "ALL" pre 2010 GM 3.6 v6 engines have potential chain issues. Whether DI or not. In 2010 GM made changes to address the T-chain issue. I dont know if the 2011 and up years are having issues or not. Considering the fix: Pulling the engine out, Replace chain, $3500.00. I'll pay the extra $2-$300 bucks on oil changes to ovoid that nightmare. I'd say at least 2/3 of the reports I've personally read about were cars that went with Extendeed oci's (around 8k and up) Worst years seem to be 2008 and 2009 DI engines before the 2010 changes.
I wouldn't hesitate to use the M1 0W40 in that engine, despite it's spec. That engine likely uses 40 grades in other parts of the world, so nothing bad will come of it. Not sure it will help at all either, but definitely nothing wrong with using it in my opinion.
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