Suggested oil for supercharged 5.0L

[stangyellow]

Hahaha! Yeah the B cam is pretty old now as far as cams go. However, if you hear it idle, it doesnt sound bad with increased compression of the s/c. But yes, its old... and not much lift. I was all about a Comp Cams unit, then was talked out of it by the engine builder. You come in with a list of mix matched heads, cams and they say "no, you want these". In a way Im glad because i have a rocketship for a light car, and didnt spend a ton doing it.

The engine was dyno tuned with I believe Diablo software. So it wasnt just thrown together and sent off. Its been "safely" tuned.

I would like to get to the 500rwhp mark but that takes $3k worth of good heads to get there. My oil system is tapped into the pan with a SQ trim. I have an oil pressure gauge, but not oil temp.

I think I'll look to see if I can find a 5w40 Pennzoil full syn. Thanks for the advice everyone.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
My question is why the builder likes the heaviest oil commonly available.
Is it old school thinking?
Sloppy tolerances and clearances?
Because some new cars have 100+ HP more than yours stock, and some use 5-20 or 5-30.


You'll hear it all the time from guys who build SBC's and SBF's. I know many of the "old timers" on the Mustang boards swear by 20w50..... in engines that stock called for 10w30 :facepalm:

I'm a big fan of 40-weights in modified Windsors because they tend to be more robust oils than a 30-weight PCMO, and in an old pushrod engine that isn't the most solid thing to begin with, I think that extra shear resistance, higher HTHS and heftier additive package can be beneficial. Though I think stepping it up to a 50-weight is overkill and can cause oil pump driveshaft failures.

Without an oil temp gauge however, you are really just guessing.

Beating the living tar out of mine, it was still around 32psi on an Autometer gauge hot at idle with a 30-weight in it. It was 38psi with 0w40. And that's an engine with 338,000Km on it

My buddy's (the one I post about a lot on here) is low 40's with 5w40 in it.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: stangyellow
Hahaha! Yeah the B cam is pretty old now as far as cams go. However, if you hear it idle, it doesnt sound bad with increased compression of the s/c. But yes, its old... and not much lift. I was all about a Comp Cams unit, then was talked out of it by the engine builder. You come in with a list of mix matched heads, cams and they say "no, you want these". In a way Im glad because i have a rocketship for a light car, and didnt spend a ton doing it.

The engine was dyno tuned with I believe Diablo software. So it wasnt just thrown together and sent off. Its been "safely" tuned.

I would like to get to the 500rwhp mark but that takes $3k worth of good heads to get there. My oil system is tapped into the pan with a SQ trim. I have an oil pressure gauge, but not oil temp.

I think I'll look to see if I can find a 5w40 Pennzoil full syn. Thanks for the advice everyone.


No it doesn't, lol

The cars I mentioned, one has a set of TFS twisted wedge heads on it, the other had as set of AFR 185's. My old ported GT40's made 398RWHP, 450RWTQ with a 2031 and an A-trim at 8psi.

The TFS-headed car is running 18psi (S-Trim, no intercooler), stock shortblock, un-ported heads, Comp XE268HR. It makes 525.

the AFR-headed car is running I think 14psi (intercooled), stock bore, dished pistons with larger valve reliefs (I think from DSS), Comp XE274HR (IIRC) it makes 534. He bought my TFS-R intake off me to put on it, it currently has an old Performer RPM on it, LOL.

There was/is a combo the guys up in Toronto used to put together. Edelbrock Performer heads, B-cam, FMS cobra rockers, Performer intake and an S-trim. It would make 500RWHP with enough boost

 

[stangyellow]

Oh I know. Getting to the magical number could happen in a weekend. I'd like to swap over to long tubes, remove the compressor, and switch over to an electic fan.

 

[Radman]

Originally Posted By: Robenstein
Castrol GTX is not the oil it used to be as shown by the PQIA VOA's. If you are looking for a cheap and cost effective 20w50 that is loaded with enough zddp, look at the 20w50 Kendall GT1. I find it to be over a buck cheaper per quart around here and in the UOA's I have seen of it, it protects just as well. It has only a slightly lower TBN than VR1, but has alot of zinc.


How much Zinc & Phos do you think a roller engine needs?
ZDDP isn't the issue, shearing is.

 

[A_Harman]

Does your car have an intercooler? That would be good for helping the HP without increasing stress on the engine.

Since you have the supercharger using engine oil, I recommend Red Line 5w30. The spur gears in the Vortec unit will shear lesser oils.

 

[aquariuscsm]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
My question is why the builder likes the heaviest oil commonly available.
Is it old school thinking?
Sloppy tolerances and clearances?
Because some new cars have 100+ HP more than yours stock, and some use 5-20 or 5-30.
I'd ask why a 30 or even 40 is not suitable.
Also remember that a thicker oil runs hotter [oil temps 10 deg or so].


I`d say that the builder knows the car is going to be raced and driven hard. Auto manufactureres have to obide by govt mandated cafe regulations for mpg`s. I`d try a synthetic 5W50 over a 20W50 and see how it likes it.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: stangyellow
Oh I know. Getting to the magical number could happen in a weekend. I'd like to swap over to long tubes, remove the compressor, and switch over to an electic fan.


Is yours intercooled? What are you running for headers currently? And does yours share the engine oil or is it self-contained?

 

[A_Harman]

Yeah, definitely put on the long-tube headers. Maybe the cheapest way to more HP.

 

[stangyellow]

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL

Is yours intercooled? What are you running for headers currently? And does yours share the engine oil or is it self-contained?


Mine isn't intercooled. The oiling system in the s/c is tapped into the oil pan. This being said, would a full synthetic 5w50 be fine for the s/c? I dont think Vortech has a real reccomendation as to what should go into their system. At the time, I dont think VOrtech offered their self-contained systems when i put the car together. Vortech was much cheaper than say, a ProCharger thats self contained.

I had a set of BBK headers sitting around with an H-pipe, so thats what i put on there. At some point ill get LT's

 

[A_Harman]

I wouldn't go with 5w50. The supercharger gears are going to shear the poo out of a 5w50, and you'll probably end up with a 5w30 after 1000 miles.

I still think RL 5w30 is a great choice. It's a very shear-stable polyol ester oil with no viscosity improver.

 

[OVERKILL]

You won't gain huge amounts going from the BBK shorties to LT's. Maybe 10HP? And even then, because it is forced induction, the gains aren't going to be big.

What intake? Throttle body? Yes, I ask a LOT of questions.

The 5w50 will be fine. I think it is probably too heavy and I'd run a 5w40, but you really should get Autometer oil pressure and temperature gauges.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
You won't gain huge amounts going from the BBK shorties to LT's. Maybe 10HP? And even then, because it is forced induction, the gains aren't going to be big.

What intake? Throttle body? Yes, I ask a LOT of questions.

The 5w50 will be fine. I think it is probably too heavy and I'd run a 5w40, but you really should get Autometer oil pressure and temperature gauges.

10 hp from long tubes. I would guess closer to 40. When I ditched my bbk shorties for long tubes on my 4.6 I gained 22 rwhp. Yes it was dyno tuned both times.going from manifolds to those junk shorties(gained 12 hp) then again to long tubes. And that's out of a 4.6. I have an 70mm accufab tb,professional pruducts plenum.
When a motor is boosted and you eliminate restrictions the power output is magnified exponentially. I assume you likely have a cobra intake. Other than gasket matching those things there isn't alot you can do to improve flow on the intake side. Maybe a bigger mass air flow but you would need tuned for it. You will realize huge gains with a larger exhaust. What diameter is on it now. 3 inch will make that car melt face

 

[dailydriver]

Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
You won't gain huge amounts going from the BBK shorties to LT's. Maybe 10HP? And even then, because it is forced induction, the gains aren't going to be big.

What intake? Throttle body? Yes, I ask a LOT of questions.

The 5w50 will be fine. I think it is probably too heavy and I'd run a 5w40, but you really should get Autometer oil pressure and temperature gauges.

10 hp from long tubes. I would guess closer to 40. When I ditched my bbk shorties for long tubes on my 4.6 I gained 22 rwhp. Yes it was dyno tuned both times.going from manifolds to those junk shorties(gained 12 hp) then again to long tubes. And that's out of a 4.6. I have an 70mm accufab tb,professional pruducts plenum.
When a motor is boosted and you eliminate restrictions the power output is magnified exponentially. I assume you likely have a cobra intake. Other than gasket matching those things there isn't alot you can do to improve flow on the intake side. Maybe a bigger mass air flow but you would need tuned for it. You will realize huge gains with a larger exhaust. What diameter is on it now. 3 inch will make that car melt face



^^^This is what I was also going to say, especially on a boosted engine!!

I remember in my old T-Bird SC modding days that everyone said to NEVER put an aftermarket pulley on the Eaton unless you first do long tubes and a much better flowing system than the stocker, and then a tune on top of that! (For fear of blowing out head gaskets and such.)

In fact I was going to estimate up to 45+ more at the wheels for the mods he listed as planning to do (with a tune of course).

 

[aquariuscsm]

Doesn`t the supercharged Cobra spec 5W50 from Ford?

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: A_Harman
I wouldn't go with 5w50. The supercharger gears are going to shear the poo out of a 5w50, and you'll probably end up with a 5w30 after 1000 miles.
I still think RL 5w30 is a great choice. It's a very shear-stable polyol ester oil with no viscosity improver.

I agree.
I'd also install or upgrade to a decent oil pressure gauge to see where you're at in terms of operational viscosity.
I'm also sure you'd be more than fine with the cheaper and readily available M1 0W-40 which would be lighter on start-up.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
You won't gain huge amounts going from the BBK shorties to LT's. Maybe 10HP? And even then, because it is forced induction, the gains aren't going to be big.

What intake? Throttle body? Yes, I ask a LOT of questions.

The 5w50 will be fine. I think it is probably too heavy and I'd run a 5w40, but you really should get Autometer oil pressure and temperature gauges.

10 hp from long tubes. I would guess closer to 40. When I ditched my bbk shorties for long tubes on my 4.6 I gained 22 rwhp. Yes it was dyno tuned both times.going from manifolds to those junk shorties(gained 12 hp) then again to long tubes. And that's out of a 4.6. I have an 70mm accufab tb,professional pruducts plenum.
When a motor is boosted and you eliminate restrictions the power output is magnified exponentially. I assume you likely have a cobra intake. Other than gasket matching those things there isn't alot you can do to improve flow on the intake side. Maybe a bigger mass air flow but you would need tuned for it. You will realize huge gains with a larger exhaust. What diameter is on it now. 3 inch will make that car melt face


The Windsor shorties are MUCH better than the Modular shorties. I've seen numerous tests showing that it is 10-15HP going from shorties to long-tubes on an H/C/I Windsor, I'm not pulling these numbers out of my a$$.

My one buddy gained almost nothing going from shorties with an off-road H to a set of long-tubes on the same car and engine, re-tuned both times. It was only a couple of HP. That is the 525RWHP car.

It makes a BIGGER difference on an N/A car because of scavenging. Not as much of an issue on a boosted car because the boost charge helps push the exhaust charge out of the engine.

 

[Merkava_4]

Motorcraft 5W-50.

 

[aquariuscsm]

Wonder how different M1,PP,Syntec,and MC 5W50`s are,if at all?

 

[Robenstein]

Originally Posted By: Radman
Originally Posted By: Robenstein
Castrol GTX is not the oil it used to be as shown by the PQIA VOA's. If you are looking for a cheap and cost effective 20w50 that is loaded with enough zddp, look at the 20w50 Kendall GT1. I find it to be over a buck cheaper per quart around here and in the UOA's I have seen of it, it protects just as well. It has only a slightly lower TBN than VR1, but has alot of zinc.


How much Zinc & Phos do you think a roller engine needs?
ZDDP isn't the issue, shearing is.


Well all around GTX is not as good as other oils that cost less. Just look at the PQIA tests on the new SN oils. Castrol GTX and Valvoline conventional had some of the lowest TBN as well. BP has generally cheapened up their oil line IMHO. And back in the day, all I ran was GTX. If he is going to run conventional, around here GTX is more expensive than most brands. He may just as well run something with a better additive package that costs less. The Kendall here is 3 bucks a quart, GTX is over 4.50.