Would there be any downside to running Pennzoil High Mileage 10W40?
1968 Volkswagen Beetle oil recommendations
- Thread starter mrdctaylor
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Penn HM 10-40 should work just fine.
Still, OCIs should be kept short.
Still, OCIs should be kept short.
I saw some threads saying that if I went with a HM oil, I'd never be able to go back. Any truth to this?
Originally Posted By: addyguy
None. Personally, I'd go with a HDEO 15W-40 for that engine.
Same. Lots of good choices here, and they're cheap.
None. Personally, I'd go with a HDEO 15W-40 for that engine.
Same. Lots of good choices here, and they're cheap.
Originally Posted By: Maximus1966
...The oil screen is so coarse as to be practically useless. Every other oil change would be fine for cleaning it and re-installing. You'll need a new gasket when you drop the screen....and don't overtorque the screws holding the plate on.
+1
Castrol GTX 10W-40 or Rotella T 15W-40 have been good for my '64. (which I kind of wish I still had)
...The oil screen is so coarse as to be practically useless. Every other oil change would be fine for cleaning it and re-installing. You'll need a new gasket when you drop the screen....and don't overtorque the screws holding the plate on.
+1
Castrol GTX 10W-40 or Rotella T 15W-40 have been good for my '64. (which I kind of wish I still had)
I've been running Rotella 15w-40 with ZDDP additive in my 2276cc for the past few years with no complaints.
That screen is actually excellent... [for keeping out small birds].
I have restored many VW's of that era. I would use a 20w50 high mileage type oil. Blown main seals are a common occurance and require engine removal to replace. Leaking push rod tube seals and oil cooler seals are also an unwelcome frequent headache. I believe that the "high mileage" types of oil have additives that will hopefully soften up your 43 year old seals.
I cannot begin to tell you how many blown up bug motors that I have personally seen in 13 years in the bug biz. Number 3 runs hot and usually destroys the crankshaft journal and rod bearing when the clueless owner runs the motor low on oil. It only holds 2 3/4 qt. to begin with and has loose tolerances since it is air cooled so they DO use oil. The girl that is going to drive the car needs to have it drilled into her head to check the oil at EVERY fill-up.
I do not know what a type 1 motor overhaul goes for these days,but I think it must be in the neighborhood of $1,500...had one chick fill the engine with oil until it was literally full-til it came out of the oil cap! LOL!!
I cannot begin to tell you how many blown up bug motors that I have personally seen in 13 years in the bug biz. Number 3 runs hot and usually destroys the crankshaft journal and rod bearing when the clueless owner runs the motor low on oil. It only holds 2 3/4 qt. to begin with and has loose tolerances since it is air cooled so they DO use oil. The girl that is going to drive the car needs to have it drilled into her head to check the oil at EVERY fill-up.
I do not know what a type 1 motor overhaul goes for these days,but I think it must be in the neighborhood of $1,500...had one chick fill the engine with oil until it was literally full-til it came out of the oil cap! LOL!!
There is no PCV system Make sure the Road vent tube is clear, There is a rubber cap that can stick. Then you WILL blow oil out of everywhere!
20-50? If you need this, the engine is already gone.
20-50? If you need this, the engine is already gone.
110 degree days in Texas - 20w50 a must IMHO!
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