Compression spec. on Echo PB-200 leaf blower

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Originally Posted By: FNFAL308
Does that clerify my position and is it safe to say that we agree that 100PSI is TOO LOW??
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Yes, it sounds like we are on the same page now, good deal
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Originally Posted By: hate2work
Originally Posted By: FNFAL308
Does that clerify my position and is it safe to say that we agree that 100PSI is TOO LOW??
beer3.gif



Yes, it sounds like we are on the same page now, good deal
cheers3.gif



Very good then, I'm glad we worked that out..
I'll try to be more clear in future posts..
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Update: So I have been running this Echo exclusively instead of my Stihl. I am using HP Ultra oil and 89 Octane gas. I haven't seen the bogging at WOT in awhile now. I have a few gallons of premix through it now and it really is screaming at WOT. It makes RPMs quicker too.
Could the Stihl oil have cleaned it out? I used Echo power blend for awhile when I bought it new, then Supertech 2 cycle. It has never run stronger than with the Stihl oil.
 
What could have been dirty inside the engine that would cause a bog and that Ultra would have cleaned out? Does this engine use reeds or is it a ported 2 cycle? I know there are reed and ported 2 strokes just not sure which is used more often these days. Could a port have been fouled up with carbon?
 
All two stroke engines are ported. Reeds are used in certain models and applications. I believe your question should be "Is the
engine "piston ported"? Which means that the piston alone controls the port activity without the assistance of reeds.

I can't say for sure but I doubt that it has reeds. Most small OPE engines I've worked on don't. However, believe it or not, Lawn Boy engines have used reeds for over forty years or more!

I'd like to make a few comments on some of what I've read so far.

From reading the info about your "miracle cure" I'd be willing to venture that you may have had a fuel supply problem. As engine speed increase, fuel demand couldn't keep up.

Check your compression tester with a known pressure source. I was doing some compression tests on a couple old Lawn Boy engines and couldn't believe the low readings I was getting on perfectly running engines. I connected the compression tester to my air compressor and set the output to 100 psi. The compression tester was off by 20 psi. I'll be taking that one to camp to use. I'll put an "add 20 psi" sticker on it.

On the topic of compression. Saying that a two cycle engine will not run properly at compression levels of less than 100 psi, is not entirely correct. Check out the specs for Lawn Boy mowers. Some are spec'd at 80 psi cold. On older well used equipment 100 psi isn't that bad. However, I'd be happier with 120 psi. If the cylinder is in decent shape, put a new set of rings in it to see what it does for compression. Ten bucks for a set of rings to give a few more years of service is a better choice than trashing it.

On the topic of leaking crankcase. EVERY engine that I've had with a leaking crankcase tended to speed up and sometimes run away. Never had one that wanted to slow down, especially at WOT.

On the topic of ethanol in gasoline and the fact that dealers are selling non-ethanol fuel. Just curious but what is the profit margin for these fuels? I'm certain that may have some bearing on dealerships selling the stuff. Personally, I run around 40 or more pieces of OPE, motorcycles, snowmobiles, outboard motors, ATVs etc. using nothing but E10 fuel and have never had issues. However, I am fairly vigilant about fuel management. E10 gasoline may contribute to fuel related engine problems but I'd say that sloppy fuel management is more of a factor than the fuel itself.
 
I'm not sure I would call it a "Miracle Cure". The only variable that has changed has been the oil I am using in it. The gas is still coming from my 5 gallon container, so I cant say I had a batch of bad fuel. I haven't touched the carb, haven't changed the plug, air, or fuel filter. The only thing that has changed was the premix I am using. I dont know what else would make it run normally now besides the only thing that I have changed- the oil.
I am going to continue to run this oil and use this blower until the onslaught of leaves this fall. I will post back with anything new.
 
I doubt that changing the brand of oil would have any bearing on the engine's performance. Oil brand/composition just isn't that critical to have a major effect on engine performance.

I'd suspect that you had some form of fuel restriction. Be it a piece of varnish that may have dissolved or a small piece of debris restricting a jet or passage dislodged, a kink in the fuel line, an air bubble, a fuel valve restriction, a fuel tank ventilation issue, a piece of debris between electrodes on the spark plug??? Any number of things could have had an effect but I doubt very much it would be brand of oil.

I understand that it's the only variable that you introduced. However, as mentioned above, it's more probable that it was caused any of the above possibilities or something else.

I have a small Shindaiwa two cycle water pump that was causing me issues just this weekend at camp. Sometimes it would run fine then not at all. An intermittent problem. Pulled the carb, cleaned it reassembled. No change. Pulled the fuel line and it would allow fuel flow. Reassembled, no change. Pulled fuel valve inspected, found no problem, reassembled, tested fuel valve, no fuel???? I thought that I had thoroughly inspected the fuel tank but, I soon found that what was happening. When I would work on the pump, I laid it on it's back to keep the fuel at the deep end of the tank opposite the fuel outlet. When I sat the pump upright to test it, the fuel would slosh back to the fuel line outlet. As a result, it would dislodge a very thin piece of debris approx 1/4" square (piece of a leaf possibly) that was stuck to the side of the outlet spout on the fuel tank. If it stayed stuck to the side of the spout, the pump would run. However, the sloshing fuel would sometimes cause it to drop and block the 1/8" diameter fuel line hole. Removal of the debris did the trick.

Little things like that can be very difficult to diagnose if every aspect of the fuel system isn't thoroughly examined.
 
Originally Posted By: Jeepster_nut
What could have been dirty inside the engine that would cause a bog and that Ultra would have cleaned out? Does this engine use reeds or is it a ported 2 cycle? I know there are reed and ported 2 strokes just not sure which is used more often these days. Could a port have been fouled up with carbon?


This engine uses no reeds while some Echo saws still use reeds this unit does not.

Yes you could have had some build up that has been cleaned off, could also have had some build up on the spark arrestor or exh port itself.

May have had something not allowing the inlet lever to fully open which "could" cause the BOG at WOT..

May be fuel, may be coincidence? The Ultra oil is very good no doubt and if your pleased with the results you have obtained then I would recommend it's continued use.

While I have seen fuel lines and grommets on these go bad, I would imagine you checked them early on.. It's common for the fuel lines oin these to kinda "melt".. they get real sticky and mushy so fuel has pretty much no chance to get through.

I've already touched on the compression thing, 100 is NOT ideal and often not enough simple as that.. If your compression reading is accurate and this unit runs with low compression consider yourself fortunate..

As to the leaking crankcase, I see this problem regularly. There is a test which I have already outlined.. Usually if the crank case is leaking the unit will not idle, if its bad enough (blown crank seal for example) it will not run at all.
On occasion I get one that's obviously lean and does not respond correctly to carb adjustments. This could also be caused by a bad intake gasket or cracked intake insulator. Again must not be the case with your unit since it's now running..
 
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