Dura-seal vs. Bar Leaks

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Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
It's a good idea to change the oil soon after pour in the Head Gasket Fix to rid of any trace amount of metallic.


I plan to dump the fill about a wk after application. The Barz tech guy said the filter would collect whatever product made it past the head gasket. But that's not sufficient peace of mind for me.
 
Does anyone use Alumiseal anymore? I had an old Honda Accord that developed a major head gasket leak. I had to carry a gallon of water around if I wanted to make it home. If I reved the engine hard, coolant would shoot several feet into the air from the overflow reservoir. One can of Alumiseal stopped the leak to my amazement. I drove that car for several years afterwards and was quite impressed that the leak stayed sealed.
 
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I just found some stuff at our auto parts store called K-Seal. It's 10$ a bottle.. but guaranteed for the life of the car or truck. I tried it today an an old crown vic... It did work.

kseal.com

Have a look and judge for yourself. I went in to buy Bar's.. they said try this instead...
 
Originally Posted By: WMSmotorhead
Have a look and judge for yourself.


Too late. 1/2 of the 24oz bottle of Barz Head Gasket Fix went in tonite. Precariously drained some of the new ST coolant, replaced straight into the radiator w/ Barz. Idled for 30 min. Drove for about 10 min.

My virgin pure Mazda 6 is now tainted w/ a "fix".

I'll dump the oil in a week or two. Will be tempted to drop in new coolant, though that's "not necessary" according to Barz.
 
Barz Leak Head Gasket Fix has now had ample time to cure in my Mazda. Barz claims no need to drain coolant. Anyone have a contrary opinion to this?
 
No post drain necessary after Barz Leak install. But for peace of mind, and since I had a forgotten gallon of Toyota Long Life in the garage, and since the Barz has had sufficient time and mileage to do its thing - I drained the radiator today (and the new ST coolant), and dropped in the Toyota coolant (very deep dark red - like red wine).

If I had it to do over again, I would've added the Barz to the old coolant, and not wasted this ST coolant.

But feel better now. Most of the residual Barz is out, and Toyota Long Life is in.
 
Don't mix coolants and don't use anything with 2-EHA in a system that wasn't designed for it. You're solving one problem and introducing another potential one. I would flush it and stick with OEM Mazda FL-22 or at least something like Zerex Asian formula.
 
Originally Posted By: FusilliJerry82
Don't mix coolants and don't use anything with 2-EHA in a system that wasn't designed for it. You're solving one problem and introducing another potential one. I would flush it and stick with OEM Mazda FL-22 or at least something like Zerex Asian formula.


I'm glad this coolant issue is so utterly simple. The jugs say "for all engines. Mix with any coolant". The OEMs say there's doom around every corner.
 
The coolant maker won't be the one responsible when you get brown gunk in your system and you develop a real, noticeable leak; at least not legally/practically. I've seen it happen personally with someone using "All Makes" junk in a Taurus. Brown slime everywhere and the person didn't heed my warning to flush the system and use the right stuff; the head gasket blew a year later.

If you need coolant to top-up and its not an emergency, is the few dollars more the OEM costs that big a deal if there's even an inkling of a risk?
 
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Originally Posted By: ericthepig


My virgin pure Mazda 6 is now tainted w/ a "fix".



Your virgin pure Mazda was tainted with a pesky leak before the "fix"...
The only way to be fully confident that the leak is gone is to trade the car, or at least install a new engine.
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When I worked at Chrysler years ago every vehicle got a tablet in the radiator. Perhaps GMBoy or someone else at an assembly plant can tell us if that practice is still going on. Those tablets cured a lot of ills before they even left the plant and never hurt the vehicle.
 
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