RX-300 Tranny Slipped

[CharBaby]

My wifes '01 Lexus RX-300(69K) tranny slipped for the first time ever last night. This tranny has seen ATF changes every 12-18 months due to it's reputation of failure. Toyota T-IV(4qts) until last June'10 where I used Castrol IMV. I don't blame the Castrol as this could just be a fluke!

Car had been sitting for hours and when I started the engine and everything was fine. Outside temp was 39deg F. Put the tranny in Drive and drove off as normal. Just up the street from the parking lot that I was leaving from, was a RED signal light. So I stopped for the RED light(
This may only be a fluke. I have had flukes with many vehicles over the years and that particular issues never appeared again in that vehicle. Flukes meaning...Engine had a hickup or tranny did something abnormal or the NAV screen acted weird or heard a grone but, these flukes never happened again.

With all of the ATF drain & refills that I have done on this RX-300, I have never dropped the pan and changed the gasket & screen/filter(what ever type of filter it has IDK)! Maybe it's time?

I don't think that there is even 5K on this last drain/refill and the fluid is alway cherry red in color when I change it out making me wonder why am I wasting ATF?...Then I remember it's reputation of failure!

69K miles, 12-18 month ATF changes, cherry red and alway full(never low). Maybe it's a fluke?

I'm trying to convince myself all is well, can you tell?

 

[AzFireGuy79]

Sounds like an electronics failure to me. Have you looked online to see if this issue is common for your vehicle.

 

[rshaw125]

What can happen is that debris that comes from the tranny clutches wearing can get into the valves/solenoids. This is normal wear but a little debris can disrupt fluid flow. I would clean out the pan/screen and install a magnefine filter on the return line.

 

[CharBaby]

Originally Posted By: AzFireGuy79
Sounds like an electronics failure to me. Have you looked online to see if this issue is common for your vehicle.


Not recently, thank you for asking.
Only what I have read in the past on other fourms such as CLUB LEXUS. Sounds similar to what others may have experienced prior to total failure/replacement.

I have lots of Castrol IMV ATF as I bought the shelf at PepBoy's on sale with a coupon to boot. I'm currently using the Castrol IMV ATF in my Altima, daughters Mazda3 and the LexRX.

If this persists, I'm dropping the pan, changing the screen/filter and gasket and cleaning the tranny solenoid. Want to see how much gunk is in the pan/magnets which will get a thourough cleaning/spray down as well.

The tranny has been good thus far with only a lethargic feeling from 1st-2nd gear change as always(since new). The whole vehicle has a lethargic but comfortable kind of feeling as it's just not sporty/engauging to drive but my wife loves it! It just kinda goes about it's business veeerrryyy slllooowwwllllyyy!!!

 

[CharBaby]

Originally Posted By: rshaw125
What can happen is that debris that comes from the tranny clutches wearing can get into the valves/solenoids. This is normal wear but a little debris can disrupt fluid flow. I would clean out the pan/screen and install a magnefine filter on the return line.


Read your reply and it's a reassuring comment...Thanks!

As I stated above, I will be attacking the issue soon and adding your exact recomendation(inline filter), which I may not have done had you not mentioned it.

 

[oilboy123]

It's never good to assume that everything is OK in the pan? What you can't see could burn you?

If you take off the pan and replace the filter you know for sure it's not a problem. I don't care what a shop says I'm checking/changing it.

 

[unDummy]

Drop the pan for inspection.
Test the solenoids.

Double check the running level since cold/low level could cause the same.

Toss in a bottle of Lubegard Red or Platinum.

 

[CharBaby]

Fluid is fine(cherry red) and the level is perfect(HOT). Tried to duplicate the issue today and it didn't happen. I won't be taking the tranny to a shop until I inspect everything after dropping the pan, cleaning everything and installing a new screen/filter & gasket along with new ATF, maybe going back to T-IV.

 

[CharBaby]

Day 2...Still seems fine!

 

[unDummy]

Not a fluid issue.

Just make sure shifter is in drive. Sometimes a 'false neutral' occurs if it isn't completely engaged.

I'd still drop the pan for inspection. Clean the magnets, replace the screen&seal, and button 'er with some new fluid.

If this is an AWD, I'd recommend a full synthetic like Amsoil, RoyalPurple, Redline... If not, use Castrol Highmileage or Maxlife.

 

[gogozy]

any reason to use a full synthetic fluid for AWD (in contract to 2WD?) THANKS..

 

[CharBaby]

Originally Posted By: unDummy
Not a fluid issue.

Just make sure shifter is in drive. Sometimes a 'false neutral' occurs if it isn't completely engaged.

I'd still drop the pan for inspection. Clean the magnets, replace the screen&seal, and button 'er with some new fluid.

If this is an AWD, I'd recommend a full synthetic like Amsoil, RoyalPurple, Redline... If not, use Castrol Highmileage or
Maxlife.


It did cross my mind about the shifter not quite being in "D". I couldn't pull the shifter down any further as it hit it's stop.

Yes, It's an AWD!

Lastly, I will certainly drop the pan and possibly use a different ATF although, as I mentioned, I have tons of Castrol IMV ATF. I'd love to try a really good synthetic.

 

[unDummy]

Not much you can do for bad transmission programming, overweight vehicle, hot transmission, and too many shifts that will wear the transmission out.

Get a good ATF cooler and use that Castrol IMV up and shorten your drain/refill regimen, like now and every 6-months or every/2nd oil change. You can still Lubegard Red it if you want or Autorx the transmission. Ester seal conditioning time!

If you already have installed an ATF cooler and don't want a bigger one, increase the ATF capacity by using a B&M, Transdapt, or Permacool ATF filter(which uses the quart sized PH8a filter or any size 3/4" thread filter you can fit).

Or make your own like in this thread:

http://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2197895

 

[wiswind]

One other explanation for your issue could be that you were on a slick spot on the road.
This can be caused by oil, antifreeze, etc on the road surface.
Stop lights are a common spot for this, car sitting and accidents can cause this.
A little rain and you have a very slick spot.
You may or may not hear the wheel spin.
For this reason, I would wait to see if this happens again.

 

[unDummy]

It has AWD and would have no problem moving if a couple tires hit something slippery. Plus, his speedometer would be climbing while he goes nowhere.

Toyota AT programming uses 'neutral' when coasting(based on throttle position & speed). It can be forgetful and not shift back into drive after coming to the stop. Because these transmissions shift multiple times in and out of drive, and not just when up and downshifting, they just don't last too long. Nothing like programming that trashes the fluid and trans quickly.

Worn seals or solenoids is the likely culprit causing the delay.

Might also be good to do a battery disconnect to clear out volatile ram and give the trans some basic driver relearning.

If you can't do a remote oil filter ATF filter kit, then Magnefine it.

 

[CharBaby]

The roads were bone dry that night and there wasn't and still isn't any automotive fluids on the road where I had stopped. So far, it's just a fluke(I'm hoping but we'll see) as I travel this road regularly and often sit at this particular light. The outside temp that night was around 37 deg F. Still can't duplicate the situation so, it may be nothing.

The car has an OE tranny cooler.
I'm not going to change the AFT every 6 months as this will equate to every 3K miles. Even when I do change the ATF every 12-18 months,(as I stated in my first post), it's still cherry red, smells perfect and no grit on the dipstick that I can feel. As the fluid is draining(HOT) and I run my fingers throught stream of outcomming fluid, I can't feel any debris between my fingers. I know that this doesn't mean anything but, it's the best that I can describe.

I have often in the past when doing a D&F of the ATF, have done a battery dissconnect. It's never changed the way the tranny shifts. With the short amount of driving that this car sees(short trips daily around town), I don't beleive the tranny is overheating. It often never runs for more than 15 minutes from the time my wife starts the engine and drive to the "Y" where she works with young teens.

We have recently taken the car on an 800(one way) mile trip and it was flawless. It sees a 100 mile(one way) to see family on the weekends often. The car rests, and then we travel home. The longer the trip, the better she runs. It just needs the long trips more often...Anyway!

The Tranny Light on the dash has never come on in this car and the light does work BTW. This light will come on if ever the ATF/trans overheats for any reason. The light does work as each time I start up the car, the awray of lights on the dash all go through their system check.

I may though, install a remote or inline filter(which has been suggested) but, I first want to see what the inside of the pan/screen looks like after 10 years with only D&F.

I realize these tranny's have a poor reputation for reliability(for any vehicle, not just Lexus) but, we will get into the matter as soon as the weather permits and I can lay up the vehicle for a couple of days when the summer car comes out of winter storage so that we have another vehicle to run around in while the Lex sits. I also need to replace the High Pressure P/S line so, I want to do both at the same time and lay up the car just this once. Also, I want to do an inspection of the tranny cooler as what I can see now, doesn't that great(very rusty) on the feed and returns lines due to all of the road salt that is used in the winter.

Thanks Guys for all of the replys/tips

CB

 

[wiswind]

My 2003 Sienna in-pan filter has just a nylon screen inside it.
I added a Magnefine filter to the cooler line that the fluid flows back INTO the transmission through.
The Magnefine is a real plus in keeping the fluid clean, and I recommend it.
It is easy to install, and the recommended change interval is once a year.
It has a bypass valve to let fluid bypass the filter element in the unlikely event that the media should become clogged.
The additional filteration provided it very good for addressing any issues of particle buildup in the valves within the transmission.

You can see the nylon screen through the window in the filter in this picture.

 

[wiswind]

From taking a look on the Rockauto website......
Yours may have a media inside it...the pictures that I see on Rockauto look like it may.
However, the BEST of the in-pan filters filter down to a nominal particle size of around 80microns.
The Magnefine filters to a nominal particle size of 30 microns.
A member posted a link to a report (that I don't have a link to anymore) that stated this information, stating that the increased filtration down to a nominal particle size of 30 microns was very beneficial for the valves in modern transmissions.

If you go to the Rockauto website, look up your 2001 RX300, select auto transmission, select filter......then select ATP filter......then click on "info", a window with a picture opens up........to the right of the picture, there is a link that you can click on that will open a 2 page document that shows 2 diagrams of a parts breakdown of your transmission......you may find that interesting to see.

 

[rslifkin]

I put in one of the NAPA Magnefines (Filtran branded) yesterday. The NAPA on Lyell ave in Rochester had it for about $23. I think I bought the only one they had in stock though, but they could definitely get one in for you if you ask.

 

[unDummy]

OE cooler is useless if it is a radiator only cooler. If you have a tow package(or other upgrade) and have a front mount radiator including the OE rad cooler and you don't tow, you should be good.

Feeling fluid between your fingers is a foolish joke that makes you feel better but really a silly aSSumption. You CAN'T feel wear in the ATF fluid. If you did, its already shredded beyond repair.

Yeah, a couple 3k drain/refills will drop the wear particle counts down and get the viscosity up some.

A Magnefine is too easy not to install and probably the best prevention option, especially with the shift habits of the transmission loading the fluid with wear, and that wears affect on solenoids and seals.

It skipped once. Then it'll skip again in a few months. Then it'll skip again in a few weeks. Then it'll skip again in a few days. Then it'll skip again in a few hours.... and then you need a rebuild. If it repeats, I recommend that you trade it in!

It warned you. Do something about it while you still can before its too late. Or, do nothing and don't complain about it!