Oil spec needed, 2.4 2azfe Camry

[38sho]

I need a little help, I know its a popular car so someone on here must have one on this vintage

I had my baby Friday so I'm off of work for the week so I don't have access to my work computer.

what is the oil spec for a 2002 Toyota Camry, with the 2.4, I believe its called the 2azfe engine........

is it a 5w-30 or 5w-20 year?

thanks, guy just wants something cheaper, non synthetic, so I'll look around for a deal

 

[ARCOgraphite]

It says on the oil cap. 5w-30 would be minimum. I would put Rotella T5 10w-30 or John Deere Torq-Guard in there. You dont need a 5w oil and its SEVERE compromises.

 

[38sho]

whats its SEVERE compromises? lol

 

[Bill in Utah]

First of all congrads for the new baby!

Second use ANY 5w-30 and you'll be fine. As far as OCIs, need a LOT more info before giving out that data.

Arco is on a different planet where a 5w-30 oil is bad but 10w-30 is good.

Bill

 

[bepperb]

The right oil would be a 5-30. There was a TSB that kinda ambiguously back specd 5-20, but between your engine and the one that is currently recommended 0/5-20 there are a lot of changes, larger oil pan, rerouted coolant passages, piston oil squirters, different O2 setup.

So, I would run 5-30 but 5-20 isn't necessarily mechanically not advisable.

ARCO claims to have had a 2azfe "die" on him, but in reality some of the valves were noisy and he chose not to adjust them himself because it would require removing the cam temporarily, which (while not difficult to a tech making minimum wage) was more effort than he had in him. IIRC also the water pump leaked, but that's obviously not oil related.

 

[38sho]

I just like to use the manufacturer spec'd oil when I do stuff on the side for people.......

I see AAP has syntec blend and a pure one on sale for 19.99

or pepboys has PYB and a pure one for 18.99

might opt for the Castrol

 

[GROUCHO MARX]

Go for the Motorcraft Syn blend at Wally's or the QS Full Synthetic At Wally's @ 18.50 for the 5 qt jug.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Originally Posted By: bepperb

ARCO claims to have had a 2azfe "die" on him, but in reality some of the valves were noisy and he chose not to adjust them himself because it would require removing the cam temporarily, which (while not difficult to a tech making minimum wage) was more effort than he had in him. IIRC also the water pump leaked, but that's obviously not oil related.
Thats DOHC, front cover , VVTI system, all front accessories, cam box, chains tensioners, a whole day 600 dollar job. PLus engine was burning oil, excessive piston slap, low on fuel mileage. Engine was PERFECT before a couple rounds of INFERIOR GF-4 garbage. Also lost 2 suzukis early but saved a mitsubishi 3.0L buy going to 10w-40 with 3000miles OCIs. I have NO doubt anymore that GF-4 oil and E10 combo is killing engines.

 

[38sho]

engines have been dieing for years, this is nothing new

 

[addyguy]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted By: bepperb

ARCO claims to have had a 2azfe "die" on him, but in reality some of the valves were noisy and he chose not to adjust them himself because it would require removing the cam temporarily, which (while not difficult to a tech making minimum wage) was more effort than he had in him. IIRC also the water pump leaked, but that's obviously not oil related.
Thats DOHC, front cover , VVTI system, all front accessories, cam box, chains tensioners, a whole day 600 dollar job. PLus engine was burning oil, excessive piston slap, low on fuel mileage. Engine was PERFECT before a couple rounds of INFERIOR GF-4 garbage. Also lost 2 suzukis early but saved a mitsubishi 3.0L buy going to 10w-40 with 3000miles OCIs. I have NO doubt anymore that GF-4 oil and E10 combo is killing engines.


I know you've had your 'experiences' that guide your actions, but I really wish you'd stop posting this untrue information.

IF this was true, millions of engines everyday would be quitting on the raods and being hauled off to junkyards. Instead, vehicles now last longer than they ever had.

You abuse your vehicles on a daily basis, and that contributes to low engine life - that's all there is to it, Arco. Really.

 

[bepperb]

Well, GF 4 and E10 hasn't killed mine yet. Honestly, I thought towing a 1500 lb trailer behind a 3600lb vehicle filled with two kids, a dog, my fat behind and my wife, plus a weeks worth of "stuff" all on 156 hp would kill it first, but somehow it troops on.

I use 5-30 for 7500 miles for this unappreciated lamb.

 

[lexus114]

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
It says on the oil cap. 5w-30 would be minimum. I would put Rotella T5 10w-30 or John Deere Torq-Guard in there. You dont need a 5w oil and its SEVERE compromises.


You and your freakin lawn mower oil.

 

[beast3300]

To the orginal poster. Your answer is 5w30 as mentioned. I believe those early year Toyotas had a sludging issue. Use a quality brand and a reasonable interval.

 

[asiancivicmaniac]

Originally Posted By: beast3300
To the orginal poster. Your answer is 5w30 as mentioned. I believe those early year Toyotas had a sludging issue. Use a quality brand and a reasonable interval.


Not the 2az-fe

 

[38sho]

I think I will go with Mobil Clean 5000 5w-30, and a Pure One, it will be about the same cost as the Castrol/Purolater oil change special if I get the oil at Wally world

I tend to stick with Mobil oil and either Mobil filters or P1 filters on my side oil change jobs..... gotta keep some kind of pattern to know I'm doing good, I don't have the backing of my shop when I do stuff at home....

I was thinking of a 5000 OCI

this guy is older, retired, and he has to run a road trip up to New Jersey from south florida on the oil I put in.....

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: addyguy
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted By: bepperb

ARCO claims to have had a 2azfe "die" on him, but in reality some of the valves were noisy and he chose not to adjust them himself because it would require removing the cam temporarily, which (while not difficult to a tech making minimum wage) was more effort than he had in him. IIRC also the water pump leaked, but that's obviously not oil related.
Thats DOHC, front cover , VVTI system, all front accessories, cam box, chains tensioners, a whole day 600 dollar job. PLus engine was burning oil, excessive piston slap, low on fuel mileage. Engine was PERFECT before a couple rounds of INFERIOR GF-4 garbage. Also lost 2 suzukis early but saved a mitsubishi 3.0L buy going to 10w-40 with 3000miles OCIs. I have NO doubt anymore that GF-4 oil and E10 combo is killing engines.


I know you've had your 'experiences' that guide your actions, but I really wish you'd stop posting this untrue information.

IF this was true, millions of engines everyday would be quitting on the raods and being hauled off to junkyards. Instead, vehicles now last longer than they ever had.

You abuse your vehicles on a daily basis, and that contributes to low engine life - that's all there is to it, Arco. Really.


+1 Something is going on with his vehicles, or the poor guy has about the worst luck going!

To the OP, use 5w30. If the engine was back spec'd to 5W20 and you'd like to give it a try it won't hurt a thing.

 

[Robenstein]

I have the same engine, but made in 2006. I have used Valvoline Synpower, Quaker State Ultimate Durability, both in the 5w30 flavors and did 5k mile oil change intervals with good results.

Right now I am running German Castrol/ Syntec 0w30. This has proven to be the smoothest feeling oil in the car so far in its 48k miles.

 

[mechtech2]

Arco has been around long enough to know that the '5' or whatever first number is for cold flow/viscosity. And that the second number is for hot viscosity. I don't get why he says "severe consequences" are to be had with a '5'.

If a 5-30 is not perfect for your Camry in your location, it is very close.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

High % of VII to get the 30w. It is essntially a light base oil between SAE 10 and 5 then additised to get the 30W. VII are NOT lubricants. Thats why you see HD oils used in aircooled engines and gensets rec SAE 30. They are prone to shearing out of grade. VII cause heavy valve head deposits (especially on DI engines and oil burners) and rung land gums and varnish. They are not an oil or a lubricant - especially the EPDM based product made from reground innertubes and tirte liners - yep thats where they get the stuff!

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Originally Posted By: addyguy
...

You abuse your vehicles on a daily basis, and that contributes to low engine life - that's all there is to it, Arco. Really.
Nope: Never had a patterned and sustained issue with EVERY new car until low saps oils AND reform fuel came out. And I "abused" my cars much more when I was a teen and a 20-something in the 80's.