EZ oil change
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I make oil drain thingies like that for my boats starting in 1974 . I just flop my push lawn mower onto its side and drain the oil out the fill tube. That wouldn't be so good on a lawn tractor .
great job!
My air compressor has this same set-up. No valve though, just an acorn nut at the end of the pipe nipple.
Just make sure some kid dosent use it as a leg rest or a step.
Other than that it looks great.
What oil are you using?
Other than that it looks great.
What oil are you using?
Quote:
Other than that it looks great.
What oil are you using?
Thanks. After looking at the picture, I reversed the handle on the ball valve so that it faces the rear of the tractor when closed so that it has less of a chance of catching on a bush and draining all the oil out.
I used Castrol Syntec 20w-50 the first few years. This time I had some leftover Havoline 10w-40 that I used. Before bitog, I was strictly 20w-50 for everything. I am slowly migrating to thinner oils but I'm on the baby step program. I am watching performance and oil consumption with the thinner oils.
Other than that it looks great.
What oil are you using?
Thanks. After looking at the picture, I reversed the handle on the ball valve so that it faces the rear of the tractor when closed so that it has less of a chance of catching on a bush and draining all the oil out.
I used Castrol Syntec 20w-50 the first few years. This time I had some leftover Havoline 10w-40 that I used. Before bitog, I was strictly 20w-50 for everything. I am slowly migrating to thinner oils but I'm on the baby step program. I am watching performance and oil consumption with the thinner oils.
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My JD's 15hp Kohler has the plastic thingy as well. Every season I use it and think, "There's got to be a better way..."
That's a nice setup you have.
I'm a fan of "Dranzit," which is essentially the same idea as you came up with, but with a flexible rubber hose and a brass cap instead of a valve.
Whatever makes the job easier, right?
That's a nice setup you have.
I'm a fan of "Dranzit," which is essentially the same idea as you came up with, but with a flexible rubber hose and a brass cap instead of a valve.
Whatever makes the job easier, right?
Bigd, nice work on that. I had the same thing with my Cub Cadet 2544. It had the worst factory setup I've ever dealt with. The plastic quick drain set right on top of the x-member that the engine bolts to. Cub's answer was to include a pc of drain hose to shove onto the 'quick drain'. The hose would kink due to it's position and oil would either not flow out, or leak all over the place. I had to unbolt and lift the engine to do my home-made setup. I used an (old, new stock) JD brass drain valve at the end:
Joel
Joel
Ain't that the truth. Some guy with an engineering and design degree should use some common sense.
wow i'd love to do something like this on my Briggs motor, i've got the oil drain plug in the same location as your tractor does. i agree with you that draining the oil is quite a messy job using the factory drain location...
Dad's Ariens snowblower has an ideal set-up when it comes to draining oil ... it's a small tube that comes from the back of the block straight back with a little cap on the tube. A 1/2" wrench (I think) or crescent wrench and that's all you need. Tip up the front of the machine and set it on block of wood or whatever for a faster, more complete drain. Couldn't be more simple.
Every piece of OPE should be so equipped. This engines are often run at high RPM and high stress so with small sumps and no filter, there is no good reason to put off oil changes. With a proper drain tube, a tractor's oil can be changed in the middle of mowing a field ... or in the winter, in the middle of a snow storm as it takes only 3-5 minutes.
Every piece of OPE should be so equipped. This engines are often run at high RPM and high stress so with small sumps and no filter, there is no good reason to put off oil changes. With a proper drain tube, a tractor's oil can be changed in the middle of mowing a field ... or in the winter, in the middle of a snow storm as it takes only 3-5 minutes.
Just be careful with that sticking out past the frame. It could get caught on something. And in a contest between the steel pipe and the aluminum block, it won't be the cheap one that breaks
Dad used to have an equipment rental yard. The most usable and safe setup I saw was a hydraulic hose with a cap on it. We'd tie them up out of the way until its time to drain. That way you don't have to worry about it getting hit and broke off.
Dad used to have an equipment rental yard. The most usable and safe setup I saw was a hydraulic hose with a cap on it. We'd tie them up out of the way until its time to drain. That way you don't have to worry about it getting hit and broke off.
I've seen Simplicity lawn/garden tractors with just that. A section of hydraulic hose, capped at the end for an engine oil drain.
Joel
Joel
Looks great! I did something similar on my LT160 for around $8-$9 in parts. It fits completely under the hood when it's closed.
Nice setup! My Z-Force came with this from the factory:
Joel
Joel
I did the same to my DLT 3000 only I come out just past the frame and turned it downward with the valve on the bottom.
Sure beats that plastic drain that was on mine...which has a Kohler 20hp engine.
Sure beats that plastic drain that was on mine...which has a Kohler 20hp engine.
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