Amsoil ASM 0W-20 too thin for old Toyota engine ??

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My Toyota Echo 2005(1NZ-FE engine) manual calls for 5w-30 oil. After reading of thin oil benefit, I try using Amsoil ASM 0w-20. The car used Mobil 1 before the change.
First few hundred kms after the change, it seems the car has no torque, even it may spin faster on high rpm if it is driven alone. The issue is the car engine sounds louder after 2000 km, and then I drain the oil and put back new ASM. After the change, the cars seems running well, pull faster from low rpm, however the torque still missing and sometimes when the engine is hot during hot weather (35 celcius) and start the engine, the car seems lack of compression and cranks longer, even it still can be started during one crank.

After another 2000 km, the engine also sounds harsher and develops pinging during the low rpm pulls.
Then I flush the engine oil, and go back to Mobil 1, and it seems the engine torque is back, and the engine sounds smoother.
With both oils, the engine never consume oil.

I am just wondering if this really shows that 0w-20 is too thin and the pings developed because it burns the oil?

My other question is whether the Redline SI-1 is effective to be used to remove the combustion chamner deposit ?

Please advise. Thank you
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I've been kinda wondering something similiar myself. We both have cars with a Toyota engine. Mine is 1ZZ-FE. Lately, there have been a few post concerning Toyota back specing some engines for 5w20 and/or 0w20. I have a quart of Amsoil XL 10w30 that I thought I might mix with 3 quarts of Amsoil XL 5w20 for a homemade Winter mix. Recently I have seen a viscosity calculator somewhere that I need to plug these weights into.

Oh, sorry to jack your thread a bit and welcome to Bitog! Soon someone will be here to inform us where we can find out which engines toyota says it is okay to back spec to the 5w20 oils. My advice is too back spec only if it gets really cold where you the car will be driven. If one is driving in Florida I feel there is no need to back spec. Now I just noticed you have already been running 0w20 and it seems your car didn't like it. Some engines can be finicky. My advice to you is to continue running Mobil 1 since it seems you feel better about it. I don't usually recommend Mobil 1 but if your engine seems to like it keep on running it. I do recommend a UOA to see how your motor is wearing...
 
I find it hard to believe you are seeing these differences based on 1.5 cSt difference. Amsoil is 9.0 cSt @100C vs M1 11 cSt @100C. I guess it's possible but unlikely. I think you are draining the oil to soon.
 
Toyota only spec'd 2006 and newer for 5w-20 and 0w-20 (not incl the Prius, its still 5w-30).

Here is the TSB:




NOTE the comment in the bottom of the TSB.

The part about engine noise...

My advise is to follow your manual. If you have a 2006 and a model that the TSB covers, fine use the 5w-20 if you want to. But if you use the 5w-30 its not going to hurt the engine.

Bill
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Where is AP? Africa? Sounds warm. I say get some Amsoil ATM. Where are you buying your Amsoil?

I think you should have been using ASL at the very least. I think maybe your car does need a higher viscosity oil for compression ring seal and possibly a fuel dilution issue. Bill shows the excellent Bulletin.
 
I'd say all the problems were caused by combustion chamber deposits, resulting in pinging and spark retard, and had nothing to do with the different oils used.
 
I know i am draining way too soon, however the reason for first drain because I want to eliminate the possibility of the first change of oil suffer from the mixed oil problem (Mobil+Amsoil). Once I change to the new ASM, the engine sounds smooth. THe issue who bug me is the lacking of torque with 0w-20 and the noisy engine during high rpm after 2000km, as well as the pinging issue. I know it seems does not make sense since 0w-20 suppose to be better for high rpm, but my worry is about the thinner oil get burned and cause pinging.
 
older engine tends to burn a little oil, and if you use 0W-20 in an engine that burns oil you will experience they burns a lot of oil, so that's why it's better to go to a higher vis like 10W-30
 
How many miles on the engine? Auto-rx got rid of my pinging. I won't even go into trying to understand why.

Might be worth a shot. I have a friend that runs ASL 5-30 in his Echo. I was thinking of encouraging him to try the ASM. Now you are scaring me...............
 
I say do a decarbon and Auto-rx run. Then switch back to what ever oil you want.

The fact that it is pinging tells me it must have some carbon deposits. Unless you are burning a bunch of oil I can't see the ASM causing the pinging itself.
 
The engine is just 40.000 miles, I run auto-rx around 10.000 miles ago. Currently I am using Redline SI-1 to clear the carbon, it seems it has reduced the pinging but not eliminate it.
 
to clean engine deposits from combustion chambers use Amsoil Power Foam sprayed right into the throttle body and use Amsoil PI improver in the gas tank.
a whole lot cheaper than frantic oil changing for no good reasons
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the cam timing control systems in VV-T engines such as the 1NZ-FE are designed to work with a limited range of oil viscosities.
use only what the manuf. specs in their manual or performance suffers. torque, horspower and top end rpm will be drastically affected.
the shape of cam systems to come
Mobil 1 5w30 may even have too little viscosity to perform well in your engine.

we are fast approaching oil changes only at the dealer with manufacture approved and certified oils only.
 
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