Yowza!
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Originally Posted By: carviewsonic
Originally Posted By: 46Harry
I'm a firm believer in an early first oil change on a new or rebuilt engine. Looking at the pictures of a filter from a new engine, that only reaffirms my position on early oil and filter changes. I've done that with every new or rebuilt engine I've owned. That being said, this is just my opinion on oil changes.
+1
Does Honda (and some other manufacturers) still recommend leaving the factory fill in for the entire first interval? I'd have a hard time doing that...
I think every automaker recommends running the factory fill out to the first defined oil change, and not dumping it early.
Motorcycles manufacturers on the other hand all seem to recommend the first oil & filter change at 600 miles.
Originally Posted By: 46Harry
I'm a firm believer in an early first oil change on a new or rebuilt engine. Looking at the pictures of a filter from a new engine, that only reaffirms my position on early oil and filter changes. I've done that with every new or rebuilt engine I've owned. That being said, this is just my opinion on oil changes.
+1
Does Honda (and some other manufacturers) still recommend leaving the factory fill in for the entire first interval? I'd have a hard time doing that...
I think every automaker recommends running the factory fill out to the first defined oil change, and not dumping it early.
Motorcycles manufacturers on the other hand all seem to recommend the first oil & filter change at 600 miles.
Looks like the filter did its job. This is why it is recommended to add a coolant fllter cause all that stuff is circulating around the coolant circuit clogging up heater cores and radiators and thermostats.
Machining leaves roughness and burs, and the roughness gets worn down when parts rub together. Burs may come off. Even if the parts are cleaned well. I always see glitter in a new car oil drain pan in sunlight, although haven't had many new cars or had all makes.
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Kuato, I didn't change the oil - just the filter. I might have another one to cut open when I do the oil change in two weeks. There will be 1200 total miles on the engine then.
I bought a new truck on Dec. 31 and it had such poor build quality that I returned it a month later and replaced it with this truck. The build quality was better but still not what it should be. Also, the dealership falsified the PDI paperwork by falsely stating that they checked things that were never checked (washer fluid pump not hooked up from the factory and PDI sheets claims to have verified washer/wiper function was the icing). The differential was low on both of these trucks by about 16 ounces. I haven't checked out the transmission but being a manual gearbox I don't feel that it would make any difference to change the gear oil early. Transmissions tend to shed metals until worn in so I'll let it go, along with the rear axle, to 50,000 miles.
For now, I have dealership provided Gonher made filters. I will buy some Mahle OC575 filters for future use. I am going to use Quaker State synthetic blend 5w30 oil to see how it performs. It is the lowest priced 'Dexos-1' rated oil at Wal-Mart so I'll try it for a few years with 5,000 mile intervals. The factory installed filter was a Japanese made Mahle so I'll be curios to see how the aftermarket Mahle-Knecht product compared on the inside.
I bought a new truck on Dec. 31 and it had such poor build quality that I returned it a month later and replaced it with this truck. The build quality was better but still not what it should be. Also, the dealership falsified the PDI paperwork by falsely stating that they checked things that were never checked (washer fluid pump not hooked up from the factory and PDI sheets claims to have verified washer/wiper function was the icing). The differential was low on both of these trucks by about 16 ounces. I haven't checked out the transmission but being a manual gearbox I don't feel that it would make any difference to change the gear oil early. Transmissions tend to shed metals until worn in so I'll let it go, along with the rear axle, to 50,000 miles.
For now, I have dealership provided Gonher made filters. I will buy some Mahle OC575 filters for future use. I am going to use Quaker State synthetic blend 5w30 oil to see how it performs. It is the lowest priced 'Dexos-1' rated oil at Wal-Mart so I'll try it for a few years with 5,000 mile intervals. The factory installed filter was a Japanese made Mahle so I'll be curios to see how the aftermarket Mahle-Knecht product compared on the inside.
Originally Posted By: bvance554
I don't' see a problem. Looks like the filter did its job. If that metal were in the drain pan then there might be a problem.
Agree, that's what filters are for. Now if it had gone into bypass due to capacity that's another story
I don't' see a problem. Looks like the filter did its job. If that metal were in the drain pan then there might be a problem.
Agree, that's what filters are for. Now if it had gone into bypass due to capacity that's another story
FowVay said:
I cut open my factory OEM Nissan filter for the Versa at 2k. I saw no visible particles in there. I would keep your photos and document the notes just to be safe.
Originally Posted By: goodtimes
Machining leaves roughness and burs, and the roughness gets worn down when parts rub together. Burs may come off. Even if the parts are cleaned well. I always see glitter in a new car oil drain pan in sunlight, although haven't had many new cars or had all makes.
Working as the material guy in a machine shop for awhile its true. I would be covered in aluminum glitter just from cutting and knocking down a few edges. Some would be fine powder but some would be longer pieces. It almost looks like this block wasn't blown out or washed and just assembled.
Machining leaves roughness and burs, and the roughness gets worn down when parts rub together. Burs may come off. Even if the parts are cleaned well. I always see glitter in a new car oil drain pan in sunlight, although haven't had many new cars or had all makes.
Working as the material guy in a machine shop for awhile its true. I would be covered in aluminum glitter just from cutting and knocking down a few edges. Some would be fine powder but some would be longer pieces. It almost looks like this block wasn't blown out or washed and just assembled.
Fuji had a spate of Ej255 turbo engines grenading due to parts ( crank?) not being cleaned after machining a few years ago.
Somebody didn't clean either the block or the crank. - or you have a part failing.
My Nissan has been FINE. Subaru has been fine (if you don't mind some oil usage)
the Grass is always greener ...
Biggest problems with Toyota, Ford and Honda.
__
Run the larger Armada and Titan V8 filter. the OE is too small. - Unless you like bearing knock.
Surprisingly the QR25DE like to be OVER filled a bit with oil. Just a cup.
Enjoy the HORRENDOUS injector noise when cold - or is this just mine??
Somebody didn't clean either the block or the crank. - or you have a part failing.
My Nissan has been FINE. Subaru has been fine (if you don't mind some oil usage)
the Grass is always greener ...
Biggest problems with Toyota, Ford and Honda.
__
Run the larger Armada and Titan V8 filter. the OE is too small. - Unless you like bearing knock.
Surprisingly the QR25DE like to be OVER filled a bit with oil. Just a cup.
Enjoy the HORRENDOUS injector noise when cold - or is this just mine??
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Originally Posted By: FowVay
Kuato, I didn't change the oil - just the filter. I might have another one to cut open when I do the oil change in two weeks. There will be 1200 total miles on the engine then.
....
Thanks for the clarification, I missed that; but still
now there is some evidence of the existence of break in material; and a huge volume of it too.
Kuato, I didn't change the oil - just the filter. I might have another one to cut open when I do the oil change in two weeks. There will be 1200 total miles on the engine then.
....
Thanks for the clarification, I missed that; but still
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Run the larger Armada and Titan V8 filter. the OE is too small. - Unless you like bearing knock.
Surprisingly the QR25DE like to be OVER filled a bit with oil. Just a cup.
Enjoy the HORRENDOUS injector noise when cold - or is this just mine??
Run a different size filter and you'll give Nissan a reason to deny any warranty claim. I'd drive it like I stole it until the next oil change and see what shows up in the filter. If any more wear metal is present then I'd beat it like a redheaded step child to make sure it goes kaput before the warranty is up.
Run the larger Armada and Titan V8 filter. the OE is too small. - Unless you like bearing knock.
Surprisingly the QR25DE like to be OVER filled a bit with oil. Just a cup.
Enjoy the HORRENDOUS injector noise when cold - or is this just mine??
Run a different size filter and you'll give Nissan a reason to deny any warranty claim. I'd drive it like I stole it until the next oil change and see what shows up in the filter. If any more wear metal is present then I'd beat it like a redheaded step child to make sure it goes kaput before the warranty is up.
I predict either the next filter will contain a lot less metal, or else the engine's life will be short.
When I removed the original factory oil filter from my Mazda, there was one large metal sliver stuck in one of the inlet holes---too large to even reach the media. Thereafter, there was very little metal visible in any of the filters I dissected.
When I removed the original factory oil filter from my Mazda, there was one large metal sliver stuck in one of the inlet holes---too large to even reach the media. Thereafter, there was very little metal visible in any of the filters I dissected.
Originally Posted By: funflyer
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Run the larger Armada and Titan V8 filter. the OE is too small. - Unless you like bearing knock.
Surprisingly the QR25DE like to be OVER filled a bit with oil. Just a cup.
Enjoy the HORRENDOUS injector noise when cold - or is this just mine??
Run a different size filter and you'll give Nissan a reason to deny any warranty claim. I'd drive it like I stole it until the next oil change and see what shows up in the filter. If any more wear metal is present then I'd beat it like a redheaded step child to make sure it goes kaput before the warranty is up.
Do that and Nissan will deny your warranty. Nissan/Renault can ascertain(from the ECU)how the engine has been operated. My BIL was told by his Honda dealer - "Hey Jonah, you had a pretty hard panic stop recently ... did the car perform OK for you in this situation?"
Me, I would have handed the guy's @^&%$ to him about poking into my stuff without my consent.
Usually Nissan service would be too clueless to even notice a genuine Nissan filter that was a tiny bit larger.
Don't be a fairy wimp - This is 'Merica buddy!
Its your car, Do what you want within reason.
The can be nothing AT ALL wrong with a slightly larger filter of EXACT SAME DESIGN. In fact there plenty wrong with the current Nissan's spec'd TINY - almost INVISIBLE - filter that would be marginal installed as a fuel line filter, nevermind on a DOHC mechanical bucket tappet 175 HP high output 4 banger.
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Run the larger Armada and Titan V8 filter. the OE is too small. - Unless you like bearing knock.
Surprisingly the QR25DE like to be OVER filled a bit with oil. Just a cup.
Enjoy the HORRENDOUS injector noise when cold - or is this just mine??
Run a different size filter and you'll give Nissan a reason to deny any warranty claim. I'd drive it like I stole it until the next oil change and see what shows up in the filter. If any more wear metal is present then I'd beat it like a redheaded step child to make sure it goes kaput before the warranty is up.
Do that and Nissan will deny your warranty. Nissan/Renault can ascertain(from the ECU)how the engine has been operated. My BIL was told by his Honda dealer - "Hey Jonah, you had a pretty hard panic stop recently ... did the car perform OK for you in this situation?"
Me, I would have handed the guy's @^&%$ to him about poking into my stuff without my consent.
Usually Nissan service would be too clueless to even notice a genuine Nissan filter that was a tiny bit larger.
Don't be a fairy wimp - This is 'Merica buddy!
Its your car, Do what you want within reason.
The can be nothing AT ALL wrong with a slightly larger filter of EXACT SAME DESIGN. In fact there plenty wrong with the current Nissan's spec'd TINY - almost INVISIBLE - filter that would be marginal installed as a fuel line filter, nevermind on a DOHC mechanical bucket tappet 175 HP high output 4 banger.
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If I could open my OE factory JAPON Nissan filter that was installed on my rogue, I do so and photo graph for comparison notes. I don't have a large roller knife conduit cutter.
I do thank the OP for looking in his filter 0 all you UOA guys ignore this - and this is wear the wear metal is - not on you UOA report which is mainly CHEMICALLY CONVERTED (etched) sacrificial protection wear.
The more the better in UOA FORM on performace driven or hard worked vehicles.
Think about it.
I do thank the OP for looking in his filter 0 all you UOA guys ignore this - and this is wear the wear metal is - not on you UOA report which is mainly CHEMICALLY CONVERTED (etched) sacrificial protection wear.
The more the better in UOA FORM on performace driven or hard worked vehicles.
Think about it.
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