Will spring clamps on lower radiator hose eventually stop leaking?

[doutrnz]

I got a tear in the lower radiator hose that I replaced. I use the original spring clamp for the bottom connection to the radiator. The bottom of the radiator connection is plastic so the nipple did not have any corrosion. I used a small amount of wd-40 to help slide the new hose over the fitting. There is a small "stop" on the radiator so you know how far in to put the hose over the fitting. After putting the spring clamp in place, there is a small leak from the connection. I have tried putting the clamp in different places of the hose to try to get a seal but it still leaks a little. I noticed when it heats up or when Im driving, there isnt a leak. Its not until the engine starts to cool again that the leak starts again.

I read that putting the spring clamp in the exact same place as it was before on the hose makes sure there is a proper seal. The problem is, this is a new hose and there isnt an indentation from the spring clamp to match up with. I've tried putting the clamp near the edge of the hose, near the nipple and inbetween them and that still leaks. Will the leak stop over time? I'm hoping that the expansion and contraction of all the connections eventually will "seat" itself and make a good seal eventually.

I'm hoping I'm not the only one that is experiencing this. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Brian123]

What kind of car is this?

Maybe you have a crack in the Radiator somewhere, you might want to get a Pressure Test done.

 

[The Critic]

Was this a dealer hose or aftermarket? The spring clamps are sized for specific diameters - down to the mm. If the replacement hose is dimensionally different in any manner, the clamp may not work.

Clamp Full Tab Constant Tension 9mm - 50mm

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belmetric.com

 

[Trav]

Old spring clamps loose tension with age, the only way to make sure they seal 100% is to us a new OE hose and a new clamp. Putting a coating of a sealer on the nipple right before putting the hose on will help seal it. You can also use a constant tension clamp.
These are a couple that will work.

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Permatex® High Tack® Gasket Sealant, 4 OZ - Permatex

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Napa has the clamps just take your old one for the correct size. These are not standard screw clamps, they have a liner and use Belleville spring washers to maintain tension.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7051509

 

[D60]

I've noticed with the larger spring clamps like for rad hoses it's important to get them perfectly square so they seat "flat" with maximum contact.

That said, it sounds like this one is tired.

In all honesty, it probably will "crustify" with time but that's not the best approach

And I use copious WD on most every hose I slide together. If your clamp is properly tensioned and beyond the "stops" built into 99% of connections I can't see a problem and I've never had one. I also can't imagine a tiny bit of WD in the cooling system being an issue at all....or I've never had a problem unless it was traces of WD that killed my last water pump seal.....

 

[Ihatetochangeoil]

Trav and The Critic are above reproach on this site and I would take their advice on anything for a car. That much being said, I can't imagine a LEAK of ANY automobile fluid "stopping" on its own without the application of something; sealer, seating a clamp squarely, using the right size clamp, tightening a flare or compression fitting, replacing a gasket, sufficient torque, etc. I'm NOT a mechanic for a living, just an OCD BITOG nut who wrenches on my own junk. Leaks don't "stop" on their own, and any leak is not good. When I "slide on" any clamped hose, I ALWAYS use a little silicone grease, new clamps, and NOTHING I've put together leaks.

 

[Chris142]

Those spring clamps shouldn't be reused. slide it to where you can get a worm clamp in there

 

[Ihatetochangeoil]

Those spring clamps shouldn't be reused. slide it to where you can get a worm clamp in there

Worm clamps shouldn't be used; and you are correct. Spring clamps shouldn't be RE-used. As the vehicle and hoses age, the rubber (EPDM) compresses and softens. A worm clamp just sits there, it has no spring tension to keep pressure on an aging, compressing, softening hose.

 

[oldcodger]

If you do not have a crack in the radiator connection an OE hose and constant pressure clamp will cure your problem. Like Ihatetpchangeo said worm clamps do not really work. I have tried them and they will hold for while but you will find you need to keep re-tightening them.

 

[ekrampitzjr]

Use silicone grease when applying a new hose, not WD-40, which contains kerosene. Over time petroleum-based liquids will attack the plastic nipple and the neoprene hose.

 

[Lubener]

It's not likely to get better. Replace the clamp and next time lubricate the hose with some coolant to aid in hose installation.. You should not need any sealant to seal the hose connection. Don't use WD-40.

 

[Soft Cars]

Either the clamp has lost its tension, clamp is the wrong size, or the hose is wrong diameter.

The surest bet is to get a factory hose and the matching factory hose clamp.

Also, don't over expand the clamps. Get a good set of pliers like the Mayhew 28680.

 

[The Critic]

Also, don't over expand the clamps. Get a good set of pliers like the Mayhew 28680.

That is an important point. When removing these clamps, you need to avoid "distorting" them. They make hose clamp pliers that are designed to remove these clamps without damage.

I always reuse constant-tension clamps and have never had a leak, but I also don't manipulate them in ways that I have seen other techs do.

 

[SC Maintenance]

I have re-used constant tension clamps, but I have also ruined them taking them off by twisting them. If they don't open enough to slide off easily then you end up twisting them from the back and forth of forcing them off, or getting them over the bubble on the end of the rad outlet. They get a slight twist and no longer apply an even force. As well as described, spring steel looses its spring over time.

I would bight the bullet and drain the rad and get a new clamp on - or as suggested try moving it all the way inboard and try a screw type clamp. Its not going to improve - likely get worse.

Was the hose fit pretty good? I had an issue with an aftermarket hose being too large - Continental hose to be exact. I could tell as soon as I slid it on it wasn't going to work out.

 

[D60]

"While the ingredients in WD-40® Multi-Use Product are secret, we can tell you what it does NOT contain. WD-40® Multi-Use Product does not contain silicone, kerosene, water, graphite, or chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs)."

 

[Chris142]

Worm clamps shouldn't be used; and you are correct. Spring clamps shouldn't be RE-used. As the vehicle and hoses age, the rubber (EPDM) compresses and softens. A worm clamp just sits there, it has no spring tension to keep pressure on an aging, compressing, softening hose.

20+ years at a radiator shop I never had a problem with worm clamps.

 

[D60]

20+ years at a radiator shop I never had a problem with worm clamps.

Used to be that's all there was and somehow vehicles stayed on the road.

That said, I understand the concept of spring tension and prefer to use them when possible.

I've even seen Eric O throw on worm drive clamps when the spring tensions rusted through.

 

[Soft Cars]

20+ years at a radiator shop I never had a problem with worm clamps.

I have problems with them all the time. I get them tight and then two weeks later they're leaking.

 

[Ihatetochangeoil]

20+ years at a radiator shop I never had a problem with worm clamps.

Nothing I said was meant to be personal and I do not doubt you. I'm 65 and don't rebuild carburetors anymore. Today's world is NOT the world in which I grew up. I don't think spring type hose clamps existed back then, nor did Google or smartphones or the internet, but I digress. No one who can keep a 57 case tractor going is a mechanical slouch, but sometimes the newer stuff IS better, like fuel injection over carburetion. It is my OPINION that manufacturers now DO NOT use spring clamps because they're better; they use spring clamps because they're CHEAPER and FASTER on an assembly line. Nowhere else but in the OCD world of BITOG would we even be having this conversation over such minutia. 19 responses discussing why a hose leak?!?! Chris 142, may you live long and prosper sir!

 

[Blueshound]

Used to be that's all there was and somehow vehicles stayed on the road.

That said, I understand the concept of spring tension and prefer to use them when possible.

I've even seen Eric O throw on worm drive clamps when the spring tensions rusted through.

That's what I would do. Slide the spring clamp over a bit, and add a worm drive clamp.