Will mechanix/grease monkey gloves protect from needle nose puncture?

R

R18Civic

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Jan 14, 2017
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Yesterday while working on drum brakes I ended up stabbing myself in the Webbing of my left hand. It hit the bone and left a nasty hole in my hand momentarily.

I went to urgent care and ended up getting a Tdap booster and xrays done to ensure there was no chipped bone or foreign fragments in my hand.

On the ride back from urgent care I was urged to grab some gloves to minimize the chance of this happening again. I ended up with grease monkey gloves. Will they really prevent this from happening again?
 

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Eh, they might help a bit but there's a million variables like force, angle and how sharp the offending tool is.

I can't stand any of the "mechanics" gloves as I feel they're overpriced and don't last-- especially Mechanix' synthetic leather.

You'd be ahead with cow leather driving gloves. I prefer to use Tillman 48 MIG/TIG gloves because they slip on and off VERY easily and dexterity is only a tiny bit worse than mechanics gloves.....but protection is VASTLY superior and they last way longer.

But yeah, anytime I'm doing anything where I might slip like using a prybar or levering drum springs, I'm wearing leather gloves. It effectively gives me more strength because I don't have to be tentative or cautious about injuring my hands.
 
Go stroll your LWS, you might be surprised at some of the offerings and the pricing compared to over-priced Mechanix et al

They should carry a Tillman variation of a driving glove, too.

Goat skin is awesome for dexterity and feels really good but costs more and is easier to puncture. Tradeoffs with everything.....
 
Ouch. Reminds me how much I hate drum brakes. Nothing goes easily on them IME.

Sorry you got injured. Need to be super careful prying with any tool, any time, any place. This is an unfortunate reminder for all.

I can’t stand gloves. Rubber ones get too sweaty, heavy ones too hot.

But loose leather ones for where you can avoid the issue of feel to me are the best. Back when my mother would buy me leather sneakers because they breathed better than ones with man made materials. Who knows how true that is, but it’s important to have something that is easy on/off and can stay dry inside.

I like loose leather gloves for that personally. I also like the white ox gloves for a lot of stuff. Not car work generally though. But they may have done ok here.
 
D60 said:
Eh, they might help a bit but there's a million variables like force, angle and how sharp the offending tool is.

I can't stand any of the "mechanics" gloves as I feel they're overpriced and don't last-- especially Mechanix' synthetic leather.

You'd be ahead with cow leather driving gloves. I prefer to use Tillman 48 MIG/TIG gloves because they slip on and off VERY easily and dexterity is only a tiny bit worse than mechanics gloves.....but protection is VASTLY superior and they last way longer.

But yeah, anytime I'm doing anything where I might slip like using a prybar or levering drum springs, I'm wearing leather gloves. It effectively gives me more strength because I don't have to be tentative or cautious about injuring my hands.
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Tillman 48 is lined/insulated, no? How does that work when doing work in the heat, being hot and sweaty?

Is there a version of those that are unlined?
 
JHZR2 said:
Tillman 48 is lined/insulated, no? How does that work when doing work in the heat, being hot and sweaty?

Is there a version of those that are unlined?
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The 48 is lined but I find that really provides an extra level of protection and comfort. It's thin as glove insulation goes.

You make a good point about the heat and it might be obnoxious. I tend to not work in high heat a lot and we have near zero humidity. HOWEVER, I also find the insulation "insulates" my hands from the leather, allowing them to slip on and off even when sweaty. Straight leather on the skin can be a hassle to peel off and put back on based upon my limited experience in hot conditions.

The 1414 or 1418 would be a cowhide, unlined driver's glove. They tend to cost a few bucks less than a "mechanics" glove but last WAY longer. Like many things leather, they'll often fit better once broken in and sometimes a little exposure to oils, ATF etc actually helps this, but that's a fine line.

The 1415 would be goat skin.

These basic gloves from MSC are actually pretty darn good for under $6/pr, but shipping would deter most people and you'd have no way to try them on for sizing. I like them ok but the stitching doesn't hold up to hot works and they often just come apart on me. I keep a pair in each truck for handling chains, binders, trailer ramps etc. Here again still more durable than an over-priced glove at O'Reilly or AutoZone and a fraction of the cost (if I need them I'll just tack them on an order of cutting tools and bandsaw blades so shipping is irrelevant for me)

 
mfewtrail said:
If you were struggling with a spring using those, get some brake spring pliers.
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I meant to say that, too! The right tools are everything. I never use non-locking needle nose on drum springs, and I hate even doing that as it's not the right tool.
 
Ouch.

I feel I should put in an obligatory comment about wearing safety glasses. I scratched my eye once—that was extreme pain—I can’t imagine what a spring to the eye would feel like.

I know brake drums got the job done for years, but they still scare me.
 
supton said:
Ouch.

I feel I should put in an obligatory comment about wearing safety glasses. I scratched my eye once—that was extreme pain—I can’t imagine what a spring to the eye would feel like.

I know brake drums got the job done for years, but they still scare me.
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I feel naked in the shop without eyes, gloves, pants and steel (actually composite) toes. I also always wear a welders cap just to keep crap out of my hair and anymore a headlamp so I can actually see things (I hear HGH helps with failing eyesight......hmmmmm)

I don't know how people work in shorts or flip flops or without eye protection. I just can't do it and I'm extra tentative which is actually far more dangerous than feeling confident.
 
 
Trav said:
I have those and they are good especially when working with heat shields or sheet metal, steel mesh gloves are better for sheet metal and are more puncture resistant.

Click to expand...
I used them, or something very similar years ago to clean fish on a boat to protect myself from a possible screw up and nasty cuts as a result. They work well.
 
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