This is my point - 10W30 doesn’t need to meet the approvals that 5W30 does (i.e. D1 Gen 3) , so when another round or two of more stringent approval updates comes into play where does that leave 10W30 ? I’m merely suggesting that the reasons I would use 10W30 in a GDI engine (less sheering , lower NOACK , less VII’s making for less deposits) may eventually all be able to be accomplished with newer approval 5W30 . oils . Where does that leave 10W30 ? How much future R&D is going to go into R&D for an oil (like 10W30) by major oil companies which does not have to meet more stringent upcoming approvals outside of GF-7 and what ever follows SP base approvals) ? Perhaps it’s already happened : M1 10W30 EP vs M1 5W30 ESP possibly makes 10W30 obsolete .
Why would you ever want to run 10W-30 over 5W-30?
- Thread starter Stopsign32v
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For those that know, it is. And that's why OEM's often spec 0W-40 for high performance applications. M1 FS 0W-40 also has the reputation of being used in the 24hr races at LeMans and Sebring.
Because QS FS 10W30 was the best "everymans oil" I have run the end of this past decade.
VM (vii) are junk! VM is not "oil" Less the better IMO for "challenging" applications.
Held up in my D.I. luter when everthing else was failing. Also evidenced a good winter warmup as a 5W20 substitute.
Sadly and likely reformulated to low grade GRP III basetstock interchange and no longer majority GTL juice.
Stuff goes in the snowblower too.
VM (vii) are junk! VM is not "oil" Less the better IMO for "challenging" applications.
Held up in my D.I. luter when everthing else was failing. Also evidenced a good winter warmup as a 5W20 substitute.
Sadly and likely reformulated to low grade GRP III basetstock interchange and no longer majority GTL juice.
Stuff goes in the snowblower too.
If the oil had the MS-6395 cert on the bottle I would have no issue running it in warmer climates in the Dodge vehicles I service. Especially if I find it on sale and/or rebate.
Simple: my Dakota says that’s specified in owners manual
30-40 years ago, it was always a good idea to run oils with the smallest spread between the viscosity and the "W" rating, because base oils were generally low VI and to get a wide spread required a lot of polymer viscosity modifiers. Those were basically plastics, didn't add to lubrication capability, and tended to break down at higher temps. Sometime around 1980, GM famously recommended AGAINST ever using a 10w40, and recommended 10w30 (5wXX anything was not common at the time).
So I guess in todays world if you wanted to buy a super cheap oil with a crummy base stock with low VI and still made with a lot of VI improvers, you should go for the smaller spread.
But if you stick to top-line synthetic oils, there's some indirect evidence that they may actually use slightly lower VI base stocks for the narrow spread oils, so the *wide* spread (5w30, 0w30, 0w40) may in fact be the overall better product.
So by that logic, if you live somewhere warm enough, straight 30 would be best?
Doesn't sound right to me...
How old is your Dakota? My 2005 recommended 5w30 for all temps.
Sure, if it has the license or approval you need. You'd avoid the VM in a multigrade. Multigrade oils aren't inherently "better", just more convenient.
Given everything else, monograde oils are superior. Some monograde oils can meet the requirements for a multigrade without VM.
Because it's not. straight 30 implies mineral oil. Real full synthetic "straight 30" is often actually 10w30
What it means is an oil without any VM.
I know, but if john doe buys a "straight 30" it will be mineral and who knows what generation of add pack. One can do better. Mineral would be fine for very short oci though.
My Dakota is a 2002 with 3.9 v-6 2wd
I would nitpick that a little. You can achieve viscosity spread by a combination of base oil properties and VMs (including pour point depressants). Say can get 10w30 with XX percent VM and a cheap base oil. If you can get a 0w40 with the same percentage VM, but a superior base oil, then I’d pick the 0w40. And IMO, that’s exactly what yiu get on the shelves at parts stores. You have to go to specialty oils to get a 10w30 with the same quality base stock as a 0w40
Have been enjoying this thread. Am running a 2008 Kia Sorento 3.8L, 148k kms . Currently Amsoil Signature 5W30. I pull a landscape trailer during the summer and was using Amsoil SS 10W30. One cylinder has piston slap during warm up. Come Spring, I'll change out to a heavier blend. I live in Southern Ontario (near Belleville) where temps can get up to 40-45C these days. If you owned my '08 Sorento, what would (not necessarily Amsoil) you put in the crankcase? From the post s thus far, I may go with Mobil 1 0W-40 European Formula.
Not auto related..... But I remember going back a few decades briggs engines used to make a big thing about not using 5w30s. I am sure it was because of break down with oils of the day in an air cooled engine. I believe they wanted a 10w30, or a 30wt to be used. They probably had a lot of warranty issues I would assume?
As the years went by, they started mentioning the use of synthetics is the best to use.
I remember using the Amsoil ASL 5w30 automotive oil in the Briggs engines. It worked great. This was long before the small engine oils came out.
As the years went by, they started mentioning the use of synthetics is the best to use.
I remember using the Amsoil ASL 5w30 automotive oil in the Briggs engines. It worked great. This was long before the small engine oils came out.
Briggs now sells and promotes a warranty approved 5w30 synthetic:
"... for use in all air-cooled 4-cycle engines"
" Best protection at all temperatures as well as improved starting with less oil consumption."
https://shop.briggsandstratton.com/...100074-5w30-synthetic-engine-oil-32-oz-bottle
https://www.briggsandstratton.com/na/en_us/support/faqs/browse/mower-oil-type-and-capacity.html
They're tough old girls, aren't they? Mine eventually started having transmission problems at about 19 years old and about 140k miles, but the engine was fine. Honestly it was the *rest* of the truck that was disintegrating around it- seats, AC, vents, suspension, windshield washer squirters, etc.
Still, 140k without any issues on a steady diet of mostly synthetic 5w30 and very occasionally 10w30 when it was on sale for a particularly good deal. And that's mostly DFW road/highway commuter traffic (bumper-to-bumper) in Texas summer heat,- and being parked on the street for all that time.
Ended up replacing her with a 24 Honda Ridgeline, and thus far, I'm immensely pleased. For what I do, it's better; quieter, rides better, hauls light stuff, has a trunk(!), gets better economy, AWD, etc...
When its on sale with a rebate!