Why do so many people want to run 0 weight oils?

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Originally Posted By: daman
Originally Posted By: BuickGN

UOA results are a very poor way to judge an oil's effectiveness at reducing wear. Teardowns are the only accurate way.

Here we go again
smirk2.gif
,,well then why do they exist?


I can tell you why the don't exist, and that's to compare the wear protection of various oils based on nothing but wear metals found in a couple UOAs.

I think the limitations of emission spectroscopy in this regard have been covered sufficiently on this board.
 
0w20 is required to go the full OCI (10k 1 year) on my new Toyota 4 runner. I might as well switch the jeep from 5w20 to 0w20 when it runs out of Napa Syn.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I believe Dr. Haas did some testing along with oil analysis as well. So IIRC his claims are backed up with UOA results too. Its been a while since I read his articles though.


UOA results are a very poor way to judge an oil's effectiveness at reducing wear. Teardowns are the only accurate way. Come on now, this has been gone over before.

Babying a car on a 20wt that was meant to be run hard on a 60 weight is hardly testing. Of course, I'll agree that the 20wt would still be very effective at reducing wear if the oil temp never went above 160 in those cars.


This has been gone over before, in many of the thick vs. thin debates of the past. My point here was that Dr. Haas did quite a bit of research and didn't write that article off the top of his head. We all know tear downs are the best way to determine, wear, how clean an engine is, etc. But without tearing an engine apart the UOA is pretty much the only game in town. Then there are a lot of people who use Dyson labs and put a tremendous amount of faith in them for determining engine condition. I'm pretty sure Dr. Haas didn't rely on a $20 report when doing his testing. He clearly stated he didn't track the car either. He probably selected his oil based on how he planned on using his car, confidence in his research leading up to his decision to try it, and thinking out of the box.

Gary Allan had some good results with a 0W10 oil too, again thinking out of the box.

Let me add I'm a believer in using the oil the engine builder spec'd. Ford has extensively tested their vehicles, and there are many articles showing the results of their tests using 20 grade oils. These oils have proven themselves time and time again, in all kinds of conditions, in engines spec'd for them.

Actually it is pretty simple. Use an oil spec'd for the engine, climate, and conditions you plan on using the vehicle in. If you feel your conditions are unique contact the mfg and ask. Out of warranty use what ever makes you happy. I don't have the resources Dr. Haas has so odds are I would have stuck to Ferrari's spec'd oil as well, or contacted them and asked. Still his car didn't implode. Sometimes thinking out of the box leads to all kinds of positive results, and industry wide improvements.


Don't forget that Dr. Haas and Gary do not use oils that you can find at your local Wal-Mart.
 
I got my [censored] kicked in another forum for saying I use 0W-30 GC in my Jeep Liberty. They were saying how 0W-30 is like water and will mess up the 3.7L in my Jeep.

I just laughed. The 0W-30 too thin myth has been dubunked here and elsewhere many times. It's just funny to see people clinging on to old myths.

Thoughts?
 
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Originally Posted By: Hitzy
Anyone know who makes Supertech 0w30 for Walmart here in Canada?
It's on sale for $4 a quart which is a good price here and I picked some up to use in the my mom's Escape next winter. She's one of those folks that would never plug her vehicle in no matter how cold it gets. Figured I give it a go for $20.


That's a pretty good price.
The last time I checked Safety Kleen was the manufacturer of all Cdn WalMart oils. The problem it is hard to get a PDS on them.
 
Originally Posted By: sangyup81
Did you give them cSt specs of different oils vs. GC?

No, me and another guy are using 0W-30. Me GC, him M1 AFE. We both got blasted for using "water" in our engines. Tried my best to remain polite while proving them articles and faqs debunking the 0W-xx myth but they wouldn't hear of it. One guy was a mecanic and said all the articles online about 0W-30 are [censored] and not true and that he knows that 0W-30 is like water because he's a mecanic with years of experience...lol
 
Originally Posted By: sangyup81
You shoulda shown him the Syntec 5w30 and Syntec 0w30 Specs

Being a mechanic doesn't make someone a chemist

Indeed.

Other people were like "it says 5w30 on the cap, using anything else will mess up the engine".

I couldn't stop laughing. I'm like jeez have I gonna back in time 15 years or what lol
 
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Originally Posted By: RageOfFury
No, me and another guy are using 0W-30. Me GC, him M1 AFE. We both got blasted for using "water" in our engines. Tried my best to remain polite while proving them articles and faqs debunking the 0W-xx myth but they wouldn't hear of it. One guy was a mecanic and said all the articles online about 0W-30 are [censored] and not true and that he knows that 0W-30 is like water because he's a mecanic with years of experience...lol

When an argument from authority trumps an argument from evidence, you can be pretty sure that you're dealing with people who have no real desire to be informed.
 
I came here(BITOG) thinking I was going to run a 15w40 in my car this summer b.c I thought 5w and 0w were too thin for summer 60+ starting temps and has over 150K. But after reading a fair ammount and Dr. Hass I went with M1 0w-40
 
Other people were like "it says 5w30 on the cap, using anything else will mess up the engine".

I couldn't stop laughing. I'm like jeez have I gonna back in time 15 years or what lol [/quote] Whats so funny, I see and hear this alot with the 5w20 crowd, they think anything thicker will warrant another battery just to turn the engine over.
 
While we're at it, I have a question... My boss (I work at a small shop) insists on ONLY using listed parts for a given application- which is an admirable trait for the most part. I know he's a little behind the times in terms of oil tech (so am I), but he insists that Ford (I believe) NEEDS to have the 5w-20 oil otherwise problems can arise in the form of lifters doing something out of the sorts (memory is a little fuzzy)... Whatever it is, is definitely bad in his book. I'm not so quick to believe it, but I'm a little more open minded.

Is there any merit to his accusations?
 
Ask him what happens to Canadian Fords using 5w-20 as opposed to Texan Fords using 5w-20.

Do they have lifter issues?

Is a 5w-20 in even a Texas operated Ford anywhere near operating visc for the first 15 minutes or so? Where is it? Somewhere in the 30, 40, or 50 weight range? How about the Canadian Ford?

Those are the conditions you ask to be rationalized/resolved under the proposed "truth".

Ask him if his belief is based on certain year modular engines blowing filters off when heavier oils were used. Ask him if he knows that those engines had defective/dysfunctional relief valves in the oil pumps.

Some people connect the right dots for the wrong reasons.
 
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
While we're at it, I have a question... My boss (I work at a small shop) insists on ONLY using listed parts for a given application- which is an admirable trait for the most part. I know he's a little behind the times in terms of oil tech (so am I), but he insists that Ford (I believe) NEEDS to have the 5w-20 oil otherwise problems can arise in the form of lifters doing something out of the sorts (memory is a little fuzzy)... Whatever it is, is definitely bad in his book. I'm not so quick to believe it, but I'm a little more open minded.

Is there any merit to his accusations?

Does he mean that you have to use the FORD brand (Motorcraft) 5w-20? There would be something to that, since it's usually hard (although certainly not impossible) to beat an oil formulated by a company for its own engines.

Otherwise, if he's just obsessing over the viscosity grade, then he's definitely worrying about the wrong thing. He should be obsessing over the Ford approval, not the viscosity grade. Oils of a given viscosity grade can still perform very differently from each other, but the approval means that Ford tested the oil and knows it will work.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Drew99GT said:
Buick, there are 0w-XX oils, even 0w-30, that have lower NOACKS and higher HT/HS viscosities then any conventional SM/GF-4 oils and many "synthetic" passenger car oils. Look at some of the HDEO 0w-30s. It's all in how an oil is made. Most passenger car oils are blended on the thinner side.

The NOACKS and HT/HS viscosities of synthetic 0w-xx are usually equal to or better then conventional 5w30 and 10w-30 oils, so you kind of get the best of both worlds with a 0w-xx oil - equal or usually better high temperature viscosity/oxidation control, and better flow at cold starting temps.

What am I missing, because I'm sure you're going to point it out!


Nothing. You're right as long as it's a high quality 0w oil compared to an average 5w or 10w... Or a syn vs dino as you said. But take two nearly identical high quality oils, Redline for instance and compare their 0w-20 vs 5w-20. Significant reduction in HTHS.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM


Firstly welcome back BuickGN.

I don't agree with your comparison of RL's 0W-20 and 5W-20.
Their 5W-20 is for all intents and purposes a 30wt oil so it's not an apples to apples comparison.

Thank you.

I'm comparing a 20wt to a 20wt. The 5w-20 is on the heavy side but why put it at an unfair disadvantage and compare it to a 30wt? It is a 20wt.

But if we have to, the 5w-20 is thinner than the 0w-30 at 40c and 100c yet it has a higher HTHS. The viscosities aren't going to cross on the cold end until you're colder than most of us start our engines at. It sounds like a win-win.

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM

The more viscous the oil the higher the HTHS vis. It's not a good thing or a bad thing it's just what it is.


The 0w-30 is thicker than the 5w-20 at 100c yet it has a lower HTHS.

The 0w-20 is not even worth discussing in an HTHS battle.

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM

HTHS viscosity is a valuable spec' not so much because it is taken at 150C but rather how the viscosity is measured; under pressure, which is more representative on how oil behaves in an engine vs kinematic viscosity. It should come as no surprise to anyone who has an oil pressure gauge equipped car and is familiar with RL 5X-XX and heavier oils that they behave like a grade heavier than their SAE grade because they are heavier even at normal operating temp's. RL actually advises customers of this characteristic with their oils suggesting that one can frequently drop a grade when switching to RL.


They suggest you can drop a grade and take advantage of the better flow due to the very high HTHS. Other than the slightly thick 5w-20, the others are right in grade.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM

When comparing oils purportally of the same grade it's best to be aware of any significant difference in their HTHS vis to keep the comparison valid.

Regarding NOACK percentages, while lower is obviously better, since all SM oils must have a volitility under 15% the issue is largely mute. Case in point would be PP 0W-20 which has a NOACK of 14%. Seemngly high, but this shear stable oil has been tested enough by BITOG members with no measureable oil comsumption.


There have been some on here with some oil consumption. Could also be the mechanical condition of the engine, who knows. But the point is, even if it's not measurable it can still show up in combustion chamber deposits as the engine ages. And if something is going away, even though it's just a little, something has to change with what's left behind.
 
Originally Posted By: RageOfFury
I got my [censored] kicked in another forum for saying I use 0W-30 GC in my Jeep Liberty. They were saying how 0W-30 is like water and will mess up the 3.7L in my Jeep.

I just laughed. The 0W-30 too thin myth has been dubunked here and elsewhere many times. It's just funny to see people clinging on to old myths.

Thoughts?


I see that others have already responded. I'd just do a screen capture (or block and copy) directly from the specs from the Castrol site. At about 12.5 cSt, GC is, as we all know, on the very thick end of the 30 wt range. Post the data, challenge them to rebut. That ought to do it.
 
Originally Posted By: ekpolk
Originally Posted By: RageOfFury
I got my [censored] kicked in another forum for saying I use 0W-30 GC in my Jeep Liberty. They were saying how 0W-30 is like water and will mess up the 3.7L in my Jeep.

I just laughed. The 0W-30 too thin myth has been dubunked here and elsewhere many times. It's just funny to see people clinging on to old myths.

Thoughts?


I see that others have already responded. I'd just do a screen capture (or block and copy) directly from the specs from the Castrol site. At about 12.5 cSt, GC is, as we all know, on the very thick end of the 30 wt range. Post the data, challenge them to rebut. That ought to do it.


The response will be "I don't care what the sheet says". I've had this argument before. With those who had their mind made up before the conversation even commenced, there is no turning them.
 
Guys, please save some of the more ingenious and humorous arguments [both sides] for when even thinner oils come out.
They may not call it -/neg 10, but something lighter is sure to come.
 
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