Which sysnthetic for 2GR-FE?

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Bought a new 09 LE V6 (2GR-FE engine) last week, will dump the FF at around 1000 miles and run dino again for about 2000 miles before I switch it out for synthetic. I have had great result from Amsoil 2000 series back in the day when I had my LS1, but it's a bit expensive to be use on the camry for OCI @5K, I'm going to keep this car for the long haul, but for now I'll stick with the OCI for warranty reason. About 80 miles commute to work everyday, 50/50 city and hwy, the car will see quite a bit of bumper to bumper traffic in DC area, and occationally I go WOT on hwy when there are no cars around. :D

So, for those who has this engine in your car, what do you run?

I'm running M1 5w30 EP in my wife's 2005 SE V6 (3MZ-FE) but would like to try something else in the 2GR-FE
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Yea I know dino will last just as long, but I want to use synthetic anyway.
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I had 110K miles when I sold it back in 2003, but at around 50K miles I'd swaped the head/cam, pushrods, springs, and retainers, everything looks great, that LS1 was a daily driver as well as my 1/4mi drag car (twice a month at the track), the LSI also went through about 20 bottles(15lbs) of 150 shot Nitrous as well.
 
Rotella 10W30 dino would be my first choice. Havoline 5W30 my second choice and Havoline 5W20 my third choice. I also like Chevron Supreme and TropArtic. It is hard to beat Tropartic 5W30 since it is a decent oil and only $1.84 at Walmart!
 
I do a search and have not found any UOA for this 2GR-FE engine, strange. Anyway, I will not put dino in my car. why? because I can afford to pay a few extra bucks for synthetic for the piece of mind. I would only use dino during the breakin period.
 
What is Toyota's recommended grade for your 09 Camry? If they recommend 0W-20 that will narrow your choices a bit.
 
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Any ole 5w20 or 0w20 GF4 motor oil will do fine. Pennzoil is easy enough to remeber. The GR Series of engines are shaking out to be an easy to own unit.
 
Try Valvoline Synpower they offer 5W-20 and 0W-20 although I have never seen this grade at local stores. My father has the 06 Camry (2.4 L 2AZ-FE 4cyl). I put in his first synthetic, Synpower 5w30 @ 25K miles. He says his car has been able to consistently make 450 miles on a full tank. Where he was never able to do before.

There is a good deal for Synpower in the rebate section, AMR is $9.99 if Vavloline honors their rebate.
 
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Toyota recommended 5w30 in my owner manual and it's label on the oil cap. But one of the most recent TSB listed 5W-20 can be use in our GR series engine to "improve fuel economy". It's kinda hot here in the summer (97 degree today) and it was over 100 degree like two weeks ago, with this summer heat, lots of stop and go, and getting stuck in bumper-to-bumper traffic, I'm not sure if it's a good idea to use 20 weight oil.

I get 24mpg on first tank and expect it to improve a little after breakin process is done. :D I heard quite a few complaints about these 2GR-FE engine tend to have the cold start tapping noise, probably causes by the valvetrain but mine hasn't develop this yet.
 
5w-20 conventional oil is all you need in 100 degree weather.

Your a couple of extra bucks every 5k adds up (it is twice as much in most places)

It is your money, but you are wasting it.
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I'd run *any* 5w-20 for 5k or 6months in ANY weather with NO concerns.

Take care, bill


PS:
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Thanks for the money saving tips, but If I was concern about saving money I would rather drive 55mph on hwy instead of 65mph to yield better mpg. Better yet, if I was in a budget I would of bought a Yaris instead, which is a far more effective way to save money than using dino oil instead of synthetic. :-)


Sorry, I refuse to use dino oil after the breakin is done. LOL
 
I would go with Mobil 1 since they have the best marketing, brand and reputation among the general public. Since you are more interested in "piece" of mind than making a good decision on oil, and you can afford to buy any oil and change it whenever you want, I would suggest that as the best option to max out the warm fuzzies. Hey, it's only money - it's not like that money might have a better use somewhere else, right?
 
Originally Posted By: ben805
Thanks for the money saving tips, but If I was concern about saving money I would rather drive 55mph on hwy instead of 65mph to yield better mpg. Better yet, if I was in a budget I would of bought a Yaris instead, which is a far more effective way to save money than using dino oil instead of synthetic. :-)


Sorry, I refuse to use dino oil after the breakin is done. LOL


Yeah your right, the extra $400 over conventional is not that much to spend for syn oil that does no good.

Your mind is set. Why ask questions?

Glennc's response is perfect above.

I'd suggest EP since it is more $$ and good for 15k miles.

It will make great 5k oil.
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hmm....well, I'm already using the M1 5w30 EP on my wife 2005 SE V6 for 5K OCI for 3 years, no problem or anything but I wanted to try something different is all. :D I think this time around I'm going to try the PP...
 
There is one UOA here from a Sienna. I'm going to use PP 5w30 in mine with 5,000 mile intervals. I have a bunch of PP I scored for $1.99/qt. Don't forget the ebay deal on toyota cartridge filters.
 
Well if you like synthetic M1 and Toyota's goes together like pea's and carrots!! M1 0W20,5W20,5W30,10W30,10W40,5W40 in regular or HM will all work great in that engine. I do not recall if that engine is recomened for a XW20 or not but if it is then it will do fine. Toyota do not have wear number issues the main thing you have to watch for in a Toyota is insolubles and tbn. Most Toyota tear up the oils chemical properties not it's physical properties so much. RTS 5W40 and M1 0W40 are also great choices. The M1 0W40 is going to shear down to a 30Wt. but chemicaly it resists oxidation very well and it has great tbn retension and will produce nice wear and a super clean engine in your Toyota. I ran the 0W40 in a 1995 Tacoma with 2.7L I4, a 2001 Tundra with 4.7V8 and my 2003 Camry with 2.4L I4 it has done greatin all of them. In terms of cold weather starting it is the only oil that will allow my Sear Craftsman rideing lawn mower to start inthe winter time consistently without haveing to put it on a battery charger. When I use a synthetic 5W30 PP and M1 it will not turn fast enough with just's it battery to start.

In the end as long as what ever synthetic you run can make to your OCI with tbn intact and a flash point close to 400°F with out excessive consumption it is not going to matter much what brand you use. Just make sure you do UOA because do not have a lot of or any UOA for this engine and it would be nice to see if fuel is going to be an issue with it.

If you wanted to go
 
Originally Posted By: ben805
Toyota recommended 5w30 in my owner manual and it's label on the oil cap. But one of the most recent TSB listed 5W-20 can be use in our GR series engine to "improve fuel economy". It's kinda hot here in the summer (97 degree today) and it was over 100 degree like two weeks ago, with this summer heat, lots of stop and go, and getting stuck in bumper-to-bumper traffic, I'm not sure if it's a good idea to use 20 weight oil.

I get 24mpg on first tank and expect it to improve a little after breakin process is done. :D I heard quite a few complaints about these 2GR-FE engine tend to have the cold start tapping noise, probably causes by the valvetrain but mine hasn't develop this yet.


I run 5w20 in my 1GR FE and in my jeep that I offroad with in deep sand (a real engine heater) Texas. Virginia commuting, even the Beltway is not hard on oil.
 
Originally Posted By: sunfire
What is Toyota's recommended grade for your 09 Camry? If they recommend 0W-20 that will narrow your choices a bit.


Recent Toyota TSB suggests 5w20 for this engine, as well as 0w20 for some others. The manual and the oil cap say 5w30. It is a 6+ quart sump, would that fact alter any decisions about dino vs. syn?
 
Why stop at Mobil 1 EP? If you want some peace of mind, go out and buy some Amsoil SSO for $10/quart. I bet that extra money would give you some great peace of mind for 5k OCIs.
 
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