Where is the stop threshold regarding oil leaks?

Joined
Dec 15, 2002
Messages
1,712
Location
Simpsonville SC
So frustrating the small oil leaks that I keep having to address on the wagon (2010 VW Passat CCTA 2.0 TSI). Over the past 2 years I've replaced the RMS, timing chain cover gaskets, VVT magnet gasket, cam bridge o-ring, all breather hoses that were leaking, and dipstick tube o-rings. Some were cheap DIY, others were pretty expensive. Now have another leak and seems to be the filter housing/oil cooler gaskets. That would be a major DIY and a shop would charge $1000-$1500 minimum. I know its a subjective question, but where should I stop trying to deal with all of this? I got the car cheap, but have put close to $5K in trying to seal it up (along with companion part replacement) and think the point of no longer caring is close. Only a couple drips and the cardboard I stick under it handles it just fine. Nominal loss over the 5K OCI so no big deal there. Just sucks that I have to keep cleaning the engine to keep it less oily. Any good OTC products that mitigate leaks or HM oils that would work? Currently have a can of LM Motor Oil Saver in the sump and after almost 750 miles there seems to be no change. Never had as leaky of a VW since my old MK1 GTI.
 
The cost of a replacement vehicle is likely the largest contributor to your purchase inertia.

Are you looking at any?
Not yet. I really like the car other than the nigling issues like the leaks. If I did, would prefer a new purchase to have warranty and limit prior issues. But dang, they are so expensive these days and finding a good used one is difficult and almost as costly. Almost dropped some serious $$$ on an Audi RS6 Avant (wagon) until that went south with the seller pulling all kinds of BS. Might look to change brands and get something a little more bombproof like a nice Honda Civic :unsure:. Retiring soon and playing with the idea of having just 1 car to limit all kinds of issues. But have tried this before and doesn't work well when we both need to go different directions at the same time. 1st world problems LOL.
 
It's really just whether or not the leak bothers you. It seems like it does. It's subjective as you said. I've put up with far worse leaks far longer. Sometimes it's liberating to be white trash (like me) and not care.
 
It's really just whether or not the leak bothers you. It seems like it does. It's subjective as you said. I've put up with far worse leaks far longer. Sometimes it's liberating to be white trash (like me) and not care.
Slowly evolving to the WT side of things. I mean, cardboard is really easy to get at my next dumpster dive.
 
I bought a 06 Acura TL off of my friend and spent way too much on replacing every oil leak seal. The last one I did was the rear main seal. It just bothered me that it was leaking, I ponied up the $1500 to finally have it replaced. I replaced the following seals. The rear crank seal cost $30 but you have to remove the whole subframe and transmission to get to it.

Rear crank seal
Front crank seal
Cam seals
Cam plate seals
Oil pump seal
Pick up tube seal
VVT pump seal
VTEC solenoid seals
Valve cover gaskets
 
Yes VW are trash.
I just returned from errands (food store) and a brief test drive of a 2023 Taos bas model. It has no sunroof and the smaller screen.
I like the car and I love what BITOGers and others with brains (yes, we're not the only ones-ha-ha) have to say.
With 10,100 mi. on the odo the salesman, who had a good demeanor, suggested we could start talking around 23K.

If the car is going to crumble away at 100K, I don't want one. Cleaning the intake is a thing I suppose I can accept.
I have a lot of homework to do.
 
I decide based on likelihood of it getting catastrophically worse without noticing right away - like a main seal - which I would replace.

Something like a front timing cover cover that isn't leaking onto the exhaust I would let slide. If its a gasket not a seal, unlikely it blows out unexpectedly. My Xterra valve covers weeped a little for years until I finally got tired of putting a cardboard under it.

However I really like Japanese cars because they seem to be far less likely to leak than other manufacturers - as far as my small sample is concerned at least.
 
Yes VW are trash. Gave in on them a long time ago. Seems like literally nothing has changed in the last 10 years.
I call it the VW tax, when your VW gets to be about 10 to 12 years old your repair bills start looking like a car payment.
Have a 2005 Jetta, haven't done anything other than normal maintenance. Has ~200k miles. Still gets ~40mpg.
 
Both my daughters have leaker cars that I couldn't deal with anymore. Got 2 bottles of Blue Devil rear main seal repair and they seem to have stopped for now. As soon as they start fouling the driveway again they will be gone,
 
Both my daughters have leaker cars that I couldn't deal with anymore. Got 2 bottles of Blue Devil rear main seal repair and they seem to have stopped for now. As soon as they start fouling the driveway again they will be gone,
No dangerous leaks, ie; dripping on exhaust or belts/hoses. Seems to come on when really cold out and car has sat for a couple days. Leads me to believe seals are old and shrunken, thats why I was asking about stop leaks or HM oil. I did a round of MaxLife 10W-40 right after I purchased the car and all but the RMS stopped weeping. May go back to that until I decide to drive it off a cliff.

Really like VWs for the Germanic feel and all. Typical small stuff never really bothered me until recently. Never had a leaker until now (except the MK1). Taos is nice and considered it for replacement, but this one is paid off and don't want another payment. $400 amortized over 4 years can pay for a lot of gasket/seal repair. And beer.
 
Any good OTC products that mitigate leaks or HM oils that would work? Currently have a can of LM Motor Oil Saver in the sump and after almost 750 miles there seems to be no change. Never had as leaky of a VW since my old MK1 GTI.
G II+ based oils are better at seal conditioning than GTL and to a great extent, PAO blends. Esters also exhibit poor hydrolytic stability, readily breaking down in water to form carboxylic acids and other acids that can damage seals. I'd pick a good CK-4 5W-40 and see how much it helps.
 
Back
Top