When replacing sway bar bushings...

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2008 Honda Pilot SE. The videos I've watched all instruct you to tighten the bolts at ride height. I assume this means you hand tighten the bolts after replacing the new bushings, but HOW exactly to do that gives me pause. Do I hand tighten them, put the tire back on, lower it to the ground and then Slide under and tighten the rest of the way?

It's gotta be simple but just need clarification. Thank you in advance for your assistance.
 
The bushings that the sway bar itself ride in, fastened to the body, do not need the vehicle at ride height. There's no variability to them, the bracket the bushing sits in is to be completely tightened down. You may need the wheels at the same height so you aren't fighting the bar flexing away from the body because it has an uneven load, which could mean both wheels on the ground or both jacked up, just not one jacked up and the other not, but this is only if you don't disconnect the end links. With the end links disconnected there is no stress on the bar and it doesn't matter.

This is for ease of installation so if you can get the bolt threaded you've already got the bar close enough to tighten it all the way.

The sway bar end links, have a ball joint design rather than compressed rubber or poly bushings so it doesn't matter, except again you want wheels close enough to the same travel height so you aren't fighting different distances to install them. Whole front end up, whole front end down, either way have both sides even.

If they are polyurethane bushings, be sure to lather plenty of thick silicone grease on the inside or else they're probably going to start squeaking. Some bushings have a groove molded in to hold more grease. Some people drill a hole in the bracket and put a grease fitting on (or just leave the hole then use a grease needle) where the split is in the bushing so they can add more grease later if needed, but it might be about as much work as just taking the bolts out to regrease them again later if needed.
 
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Originally Posted by Dave9
If they are polyurethane bushings, be sure to lather plenty of thick silicone grease on the inside or else they're probably going to start squeaking. Some bushings have a groove molded in to hold more grease. Some people drill a hole in the bracket and put a grease fitting on (or just leave the hole then use a grease needle) where the split is in the bushing so they can add more grease later if needed, but it might be about as much work as just taking the bolts out to regrease them again later if needed.
Silicone won't last for very long, anti seize is where it's at.
 
I torqued my bushings and end links down with the wheels off and axle hanging as the frame was suspended on my Trailblazer. Had no issues.
 
Originally Posted by maxdustington
Originally Posted by Dave9
If they are polyurethane bushings, be sure to lather plenty of thick silicone grease on the inside or else they're probably going to start squeaking. Some bushings have a groove molded in to hold more grease. Some people drill a hole in the bracket and put a grease fitting on (or just leave the hole then use a grease needle) where the split is in the bushing so they can add more grease later if needed, but it might be about as much work as just taking the bolts out to regrease them again later if needed.
Silicone won't last for very long, anti seize is where it's at.


Nope. Need something VERY tacky. anti-seize will wash out a lot faster than the super tacky grease that typically comes in a small packet WITH poly bushings, when you buy them from an aftermarket vendor.
 
I use Raybestos silicone brake grease aka paste. All silicone (except PTFE fortified), is one of the thicker silicone greases out there though as gathermewool mentioned, some bushing kits come with a packet of grease, but it is usually not as thick as the Raybestos.

On the plus side any included grease is free while the Raybestos costs about $20 for an 8oz container. IIRC Autozone sells little packets of silicone grease at their counter-side stands but I don't recall if it's thick, or thin dielectric grease.
 
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I did the sway bar bushings on my 2005 Pilot. Getting the right height just helps you hook them up. With the vehicle on jack stands, and a wood block as backup, I just jacked up the suspension in the corner I was working on, until they lined up for easy hookup.
 
Originally Posted by Dave9
I use Raybestos silicone brake grease aka paste. All silicone (except PTFE fortified), is one of the thicker silicone greases out there though as gathermewool mentioned, some bushing kits come with a packet of grease, but it is usually not as thick as the Raybestos.

On the plus side any included grease is free while the Raybestos costs about $20 for an 8oz container. IIRC Autozone sells little packets of silicone grease at their counter-side stands but I don't recall if it's thick, or thin dielectric grease.


Not the bushings I bought for my STI way back when. That stuff was tacky AF! Thickness isn't the issue; it's tackiness.
 
^ Pretty much the same difference for silicone grease. Like I wrote I use the Raybestos, I just wouldn't spend $20 on it if you're only doing a single sway bar... but it is great for the intended purpose of brakes too!
 
The end links is doesn't matter.

For the bar to unibody bushings it is preferred (as with all suspension bushings) that they be tightened with the weight on the vehicle so that they are in the normal relationship. You can do it with the vehicle on ramps.
 
Originally Posted by gathermewool
Nope. Need something VERY tacky. anti-seize will wash out a lot faster than the super tacky grease that typically comes in a small packet WITH poly bushings, when you buy them from an aftermarket vendor.
I still have the pack of grease that came with energy suspension bushings. It's just silicone grease as far as I can tell, nothing special about it. Once the AS coats the rubber and sway bar bushings it's pretty much there to stay, you're basically plating them with graphite/copper.
 
One product I use quite a bit for stuff like this is Dow Corning Molykote 3451. It is extremely resistant to water wash-out and harmless to most elastomers.

Kind of like a poor man's Krytox, but less expensive because it is a fluorosilicone. I find it useful for many automotive applications.
 
Originally Posted by maxdustington
Originally Posted by gathermewool
Nope. Need something VERY tacky. anti-seize will wash out a lot faster than the super tacky grease that typically comes in a small packet WITH poly bushings, when you buy them from an aftermarket vendor.
I still have the pack of grease that came with energy suspension bushings. It's just silicone grease as far as I can tell, nothing special about it. Once the AS coats the rubber and sway bar bushings it's pretty much there to stay, you're basically plating them with graphite/copper.


I should have clarified that I've used moly anti-seize (never the high-temp copper) on exposed parts and, with the exception of the fantastic results with fasteners, anti-seize seems to wash away after a year or more from semi-exposed surfaces.

I'm not a grease guy, but aren't there ratings for tackiness and water wash-out resistance? The stuff that came with my Whiteline bushings was SUPER tacky, way more so than something like Silglyde, which is what I used for brake jobs. Speaking of which, I'm actually not very impressed with Silglyde when it comes to retention in the bracket slides, where the pads are held. It seems to wash out and I'll likely be looking for something more appropriate in the future.
 
Originally Posted by gathermewool
I should have clarified that I've used moly anti-seize (never the high-temp copper) on exposed parts and, with the exception of the fantastic results with fasteners, anti-seize seems to wash away after a year or more from semi-exposed surfaces.

No, anti-seize is not meant to be exposed to the elements like that.The stuff I referenced is however. In fact it is used in applications exposed to steam.
Quote
Description: Heavy duty; Chemically resistant; High temperature fluoro-silicone grease.

Applications: Lubricating grease for metal/metal combinations with slow to medium-fast movements and medium to high loads over a wide temperature range. Particularly suitable in harsh environments found with chemicals, acids and alkalis.

Features: High oxidation resistance; High drop point; Wide service temperature range; High resistance to water and water wash-out; Resistant to most solvents and chemicals.

Composition: Fluorosilicone oil; PTFE thickener.

Temperature Range: From -40 to +230 °C
 
Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by gathermewool
I should have clarified that I've used moly anti-seize (never the high-temp copper) on exposed parts and, with the exception of the fantastic results with fasteners, anti-seize seems to wash away after a year or more from semi-exposed surfaces.

No, anti-seize is not meant to be exposed to the elements like that.The stuff I referenced is however. In fact it is used in applications exposed to steam.
Quote
Description: Heavy duty; Chemically resistant; High temperature fluoro-silicone grease.

Applications: Lubricating grease for metal/metal combinations with slow to medium-fast movements and medium to high loads over a wide temperature range. Particularly suitable in harsh environments found with chemicals, acids and alkalis.

Features: High oxidation resistance; High drop point; Wide service temperature range; High resistance to water and water wash-out; Resistant to most solvents and chemicals.

Composition: Fluorosilicone oil; PTFE thickener.

Temperature Range: From -40 to +230 °C


Ah!
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