Whats the least expensive JASO MA spec full synthetic?

For any Jaso motor oil to be certified besides the clutch slippage test it also has to carry one of the well known classifications which API is accepted in this country.

"The motor oils that meet the JASO T 903:2006 standard can be classified into four grades: JASO MA, JASO MA1, JASO MA2 and JASO MB. The classification is based on the results of the JASO T 904:2006 clutch system friction test.

In order for a motor oil to meet any of the above mentioned JASO standards it must be at least of one of the following quality levels:


  • API SG, SH, SJ, SL, SM
  • ILSAC GF-1, GF-2, GF-3
  • ACEA A1/B1, A3/B3, A3/B4, A5/B5, C2, C3"

Source = https://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/JASO_MA_JASO_MB.php
 
I see this is an old post but have you ever tried ordering it from Walmart online?
The Valvoline synthetic 10/40 is $8.89 and the conventional $6.37
My next oil change should be around the end of April, so I might try ordering some oil then. $6.37 is alot cheaper than the advanced auto parts store where I usually go, Thanks. This bike doesn't appear to use any oil when I check it, and I have a 1/2 qt left over from my last change. I attribute that to being water cooled. When I had my Road King, I never noticed excessive heat coming off the engine, it's even less noticeable with water cooling.,,
 
I couldn’t believe my local Oreilly’s sells that Castrol for $10.99 a quart also. BMW puts their name on the bottle and it jumps $10 a bottle. I’m coming up on my 600 mile service on my new GSA.
 
Yes, I know that. The BMW branded oil is close to $20 a liter. I’m not buying five 6 quart packs to save 15%.
 
No, the Honda GN4 is not synthetic, but the Goldwing does not require it.
Honda says the 8,000 mile OCI is what is sufficient using the GN4 oil.
I would bet you would see no difference in engine life using the GN4 oil vs a JASO MA synthetic at the same intervals.

No, Mobil 1 HM 10w-40 is not JASO certified or recommended, but it is a non-energy conserving oil that works in a wide variety of motorcycles.
The GN4 is within pennies of being the same price as the ST full syn. Why would I run a blend if it's the same price as a full syn?
 
Of course we all know that SuperTech isn't JASO certified and even suspect to be JASO spec.

Despite that......

Back when I realized that engine oil prices were going to 'sky-rocket' in 2020, I purchased over 40 gallons of SuperTech 15w40.... just as an insurance policy, because I got it for $8 a gallon.

I would happy pour it in any of my rigs or motorcycles......


.........
What do you mean ST isn't JASO certified? It says it is right on the label.
 
This a good price for full synthetic JASO MA2/SL motorcycle oil which meets current BMW specs and is about $10.00 cheaper a quart than BMW spec Advantec oil.

Castrol 06113 Power RS 5W-40 4-Stroke Motorcycle Oil - 1 Quart, (Pack of 6)​


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MISDII/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
It's still more expensive than the ST. So far the only JASO MA full syn I've found that's less expensive than the ST is the Rotella T6. I'd just have to deal with their odd weights if I go that route...
 
$8 a quart for ST MC specific 10w40/20w50 VTwin synthetic or $10 a quart for M1 MC specific 10w40 4T/20w50 VTwin synthetic.

M1 is good oil when looking at the UOA's and real world use. An oil change takes 3 or 4 qts that is $6-$8 dollars difference between the two over a year if a person changes that one year regardless of mileage. If the user changes it at the recommended mileage, that's two riding seasons. Miles not time is the issue.
 
Mobil 1 to me is the by far the best value in motorcycle oils. The numbers for both 10W-40 Racing 4T and 20W-50 V-Twin are fantastic, and as mentioned, it's cheap and readily available at Walmart. I agree with the above, it's not worth saving $6-8 for Supertech. If you change your oil annually, that's like two gallons of gas over the course of the entire riding season...
 
Rotella T6 isn't JASO MA certified. Shell just claims it meets the spec.
How is Joe consumer supposed to know the difference between an oil that actually meets a spec, or one that just claims to meet it?
 
Mobil 1 to me is the by far the best value in motorcycle oils. The numbers for both 10W-40 Racing 4T and 20W-50 V-Twin are fantastic, and as mentioned, it's cheap and readily available at Walmart. I agree with the above, it's not worth saving $6-8 for Supertech. If you change your oil annually, that's like two gallons of gas over the course of the entire riding season...
I'd be surprised to notice any difference in terms or wear, or engine protection by using the M1 over the ST...
 
I'd be surprised to notice any difference in terms or wear, or engine protection by using the M1 over the ST...
That's why we have the freedom of choice, and there's nothing wrong with that. I personally run Mobil 1. I cherish my motorcycle and I want something that I trust and feel good about using. Supertech motorcycle oil may be fantastic, I don't know. But I trust Mobil to formulate a product for this usage that is beyond the minimum requirements, while Supertech/Warren isn't a vertically integrated and innovative company the way ExxonMobil is. For the extra two or three bucks per quart, I want the Mobil 1.
 
That's why we have the freedom of choice, and there's nothing wrong with that. I personally run Mobil 1. I cherish my motorcycle and I want something that I trust and feel good about using. Supertech motorcycle oil may be fantastic, I don't know. But I trust Mobil to formulate a product for this usage that is beyond the minimum requirements, while Supertech/Warren isn't a vertically integrated and innovative company the way ExxonMobil is. For the extra two or three bucks per quart, I want the Mobil 1.
I'd consider M1, but it doesn't appear to be available in a 30 weight (JASO MA), which my Gold Wing calls for...I could use it my Hawk though, which calls for 40 weight...
 
I'm a motorcycle guy. Been hanging out on this forum for many years. My old user ID timed out, so had to update, but I remember many older threads. One in particular, by a GoldWing guy running energy conserving oil in his rig. The haters said NO, but he laughed. Ran EC 5w-30 in his Wing. Honestly, I wouldn't hesitate to use a diesel oil in my motorcycle, and I do. Or maybe should say I have. For the last 20 years, I've been running diesel oil in my motorcycles. Fear over clutch destruction is greatly overblown. Only oils with friction modifiers pose a risk, and even with those, only for bikes with a weak clutch.
 
Hey for what it's worth, I'm running super tech 20w50 right now in my ZRX 1200. It'll get an opportunity to compare against Amsoil 20w50 and M1 20w50. When wear numbers are similar, I like to see how well it held grade. And more importantly, how was the shift feel toward the end of a 5,000 mile oci.
 
How is Joe consumer supposed to know the difference between an oil that actually meets a spec, or one that just claims to meet it?
If it has the official JASO logo on it, then all the oil specs and test data has been sent to JASO for review to confirm it meets all the specs. An oil manufacture who doesn't do that just makes the claim without vetting it all through JASO, and the consumer has to trust that it "meets" the JASO specs.

Here's what the JASO registration logo looks like. You can also see a monthly updated registration list on JASO's website.

This is on a bottle of YAMALUBE 4-stroke 10W-40. That number above the "MA" is the registration number for this oil.

1758583505484.webp
 
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