I am planning a major vacation/trip and need a pretty long oci. What is special different about m1 extended performance than say regular old m1 5w30???
what special about m1 extended performance 5w30
- Thread starter EvanD
- Start date
- Status
It's designed to keep the engine clean for a longer period and absorbs the engine by products better and can hold them in suspension for longer OCI's than the non E.P. stuff this keeps the TAN/TBN in check and more stable.
It's a very stout oil and I would use it without reservation if you are set on M1 products.
It's a very stout oil and I would use it without reservation if you are set on M1 products.
Last edited:
TBN for one it carries A1/A5, B1/B5 spec and meets requirements for diesel powered vehicles API CF or CD so it's a pretty good built oil.
tig1 runs this oil and has had very good numbers from it.
tig1 runs this oil and has had very good numbers from it.
Why not go with the M1 HM 10w-30 SL A3, B3/B4 - you wont need a compromised 5w-xx will you? The 10w-30 should stay in grade.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Why not go with the M1 HM 10w-30 SL A3, B3/B4 - you wont need a compromised 5w-xx will you? The 10w-30 should stay in grade.
So M1 5w30 EP is a "compromised" oil in your opinion?
Why not go with the M1 HM 10w-30 SL A3, B3/B4 - you wont need a compromised 5w-xx will you? The 10w-30 should stay in grade.
So M1 5w30 EP is a "compromised" oil in your opinion?
For my application 5w30 or less would work better. I don't want a weight arguement.
It is an extremely good product. A little better base stock than regular Mobil 1 with an additive package that is about twice as strong. Would be the perfect oil for your trip.
Originally Posted By: evandostert
For my application 5w30 or less would work better. I don't want a weight arguement.
You've come to the wrong place then my friend
For my application 5w30 or less would work better. I don't want a weight arguement.
You've come to the wrong place then my friend
Originally Posted By: lipadj46
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Why not go with the M1 HM 10w-30 SL A3, B3/B4 - you wont need a compromised 5w-xx will you? The 10w-30 should stay in grade.
So M1 5w30 EP is a "compromised" oil in your opinion?
Honestly, I never saw the need for "Mobil 1 EP." Not only should "Normal" Synthetic M1 be fine, but perhaps it was Mobil's foray into the Marketing game.
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Why not go with the M1 HM 10w-30 SL A3, B3/B4 - you wont need a compromised 5w-xx will you? The 10w-30 should stay in grade.
So M1 5w30 EP is a "compromised" oil in your opinion?
Honestly, I never saw the need for "Mobil 1 EP." Not only should "Normal" Synthetic M1 be fine, but perhaps it was Mobil's foray into the Marketing game.
I just have a bad feeling about Mobil - why are the UOA not superior, no explanation for raised iron. I prefer something that I can trust, like even Quaker State Ultimate Durability. Even ST synthetic gives excellent UOA at 12,000 miles. My own recommendation for a LONG trip, would be Castrol Edge, 10w30. Even though we all hate Castrol's marketing, their oil is excellent. Otherwise, QS, Valvoline, or PZ, any 10w30 synthetic.
this grade of oil is just more shear stable, and a synthetic 10w30 has the cold properties of a conventional 5w30, so you have it all covered.
this grade of oil is just more shear stable, and a synthetic 10w30 has the cold properties of a conventional 5w30, so you have it all covered.
Originally Posted By: Captain_Klink
I just have a bad feeling about Mobil - why are the UOA not superior, no explanation for raised iron. I prefer something that I can trust, like even Quaker State Ultimate Durability. Even ST synthetic gives excellent UOA at 12,000 miles. My own recommendation for a LONG trip, would be Castrol Edge, 10w30. Even though we all hate Castrol's marketing, their oil is excellent. Otherwise, QS, Valvoline, or PZ, any 10w30 synthetic.
this grade of oil is just more shear stable, and a synthetic 10w30 has the cold properties of a conventional 5w30, so you have it all covered.
How many millions of vehicles that run this oil are on the side of the road with worn out engines caused by M1 and it's "high" iron? not many around here.
M1 is a quality product that i use every day and haven't lost an engine from it yet in only probably a million miles or more.
I just have a bad feeling about Mobil - why are the UOA not superior, no explanation for raised iron. I prefer something that I can trust, like even Quaker State Ultimate Durability. Even ST synthetic gives excellent UOA at 12,000 miles. My own recommendation for a LONG trip, would be Castrol Edge, 10w30. Even though we all hate Castrol's marketing, their oil is excellent. Otherwise, QS, Valvoline, or PZ, any 10w30 synthetic.
this grade of oil is just more shear stable, and a synthetic 10w30 has the cold properties of a conventional 5w30, so you have it all covered.
How many millions of vehicles that run this oil are on the side of the road with worn out engines caused by M1 and it's "high" iron? not many around here.
M1 is a quality product that i use every day and haven't lost an engine from it yet in only probably a million miles or more.
Originally Posted By: Captain_Klink
I just have a bad feeling about Mobil - why are the UOA not superior, no explanation for raised iron. I prefer something that I can trust, like even Quaker State Ultimate Durability. Even ST synthetic gives excellent UOA at 12,000 miles. My own recommendation for a LONG trip, would be Castrol Edge, 10w30. Even though we all hate Castrol's marketing, their oil is excellent. Otherwise, QS, Valvoline, or PZ, any 10w30 synthetic.
this grade of oil is just more shear stable, and a synthetic 10w30 has the cold properties of a conventional 5w30, so you have it all covered.
I honestly can not figure out why you would ignore my post about not wanting a weight argument or even the topic what is different about m1 ep. I am wondering if it's reading ability or comprehension?? Not trying to offend anyone but this is very frustating.
I just have a bad feeling about Mobil - why are the UOA not superior, no explanation for raised iron. I prefer something that I can trust, like even Quaker State Ultimate Durability. Even ST synthetic gives excellent UOA at 12,000 miles. My own recommendation for a LONG trip, would be Castrol Edge, 10w30. Even though we all hate Castrol's marketing, their oil is excellent. Otherwise, QS, Valvoline, or PZ, any 10w30 synthetic.
this grade of oil is just more shear stable, and a synthetic 10w30 has the cold properties of a conventional 5w30, so you have it all covered.
I honestly can not figure out why you would ignore my post about not wanting a weight argument or even the topic what is different about m1 ep. I am wondering if it's reading ability or comprehension?? Not trying to offend anyone but this is very frustating.
Last edited by a moderator:
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,799
Quote:
but this is very frustating.
as was said, you came to the wrong place.
I like how one member handled it. No reflex (or reflux, as it may be). He just simply restated the topic and ignored the rest.
M1 EP is a pretty robust oil. It allows them to give a blanket 15k/12month recommendation for it. With some of the other M1's it will be a YMMV situation. Surely they're all good, but the EP is specifically intended to ignore OEM recommendations. I'm sure it's not perfect in doing so as I have seen some engines put a beat down on an Amsoil product from time to time ..and all but the XL line is dedicated to that market, but the likelihood of there being any condition resulting in damage is extremely low. That is, someone out there is using it to 15k/one year and the stuff is shot, but it's not like it was inert for the whole 15k.
but this is very frustating.
I like how one member handled it. No reflex (or reflux, as it may be). He just simply restated the topic and ignored the rest.
M1 EP is a pretty robust oil. It allows them to give a blanket 15k/12month recommendation for it. With some of the other M1's it will be a YMMV situation. Surely they're all good, but the EP is specifically intended to ignore OEM recommendations. I'm sure it's not perfect in doing so as I have seen some engines put a beat down on an Amsoil product from time to time ..and all but the XL line is dedicated to that market, but the likelihood of there being any condition resulting in damage is extremely low. That is, someone out there is using it to 15k/one year and the stuff is shot, but it's not like it was inert for the whole 15k.
I don't think I will make it all the way to 15k oci. I will be beating it up pretty good though and want the best. For my truck and the trip across the us.
I am going to be looking into amsoil products once I am more settled. I am considering an h1 with the turbo diesel and want the best for it.
I am going to be looking into amsoil products once I am more settled. I am considering an h1 with the turbo diesel and want the best for it.
Last edited by a moderator:
Originally Posted By: evandostert
For my application 5w30 or less would work better. I don't want a weight arguement.
10w/5w/0w is not a weight argument, it's a viscosity index improver argument. The better the winter cold flow numbers typically the less shear stable and "dirtier" the oil will become. Seems like you have your mind made up and just want reinforcement.
For my application 5w30 or less would work better. I don't want a weight arguement.
10w/5w/0w is not a weight argument, it's a viscosity index improver argument. The better the winter cold flow numbers typically the less shear stable and "dirtier" the oil will become. Seems like you have your mind made up and just want reinforcement.
Originally Posted By: HangerHarley
Honestly, I never saw the need for "Mobil 1 EP." Not only should "Normal" Synthetic M1 be fine, but perhaps it was Mobil's foray into the Marketing game.
No I think it is more like mobil's foray into the "hey we need to lower the average prices of our synthetics to stay the leader (ie we need to be at the price Walmart needs us to be at) but still offer a traditional long drain oil that M1 was known for. Yes there are still some great regular M1 oils but if they reduce the regular 5w20, 10w30, 5w30 a little and offer the EP for a few bucks more.
Honestly, I never saw the need for "Mobil 1 EP." Not only should "Normal" Synthetic M1 be fine, but perhaps it was Mobil's foray into the Marketing game.
No I think it is more like mobil's foray into the "hey we need to lower the average prices of our synthetics to stay the leader (ie we need to be at the price Walmart needs us to be at) but still offer a traditional long drain oil that M1 was known for. Yes there are still some great regular M1 oils but if they reduce the regular 5w20, 10w30, 5w30 a little and offer the EP for a few bucks more.
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
10w/5w/0w is not a weight argument, it's a viscosity index improver argument. The better the winter cold flow numbers typically the less shear stable and "dirtier" the oil will become.
In group 3/4 oils YES, but in most group 4/5 product this is not always the case, depending on the total 'range' or viscosity spread, although even they must add some V.I. improvers to their 0W-xx oils (albeit MUCH less than the group 3/4s must add to get the same spread/cold flow numbers).
10w/5w/0w is not a weight argument, it's a viscosity index improver argument. The better the winter cold flow numbers typically the less shear stable and "dirtier" the oil will become.
In group 3/4 oils YES, but in most group 4/5 product this is not always the case, depending on the total 'range' or viscosity spread, although even they must add some V.I. improvers to their 0W-xx oils (albeit MUCH less than the group 3/4s must add to get the same spread/cold flow numbers).
Originally Posted By: evandostert
I am planning a major vacation/trip and need a pretty long oci. What is special different about m1 extended performance than say regular old m1 5w30???
Besides price there is most likely nothing different between this hyped up oil and any other oil.
Oil is a lubricant. Pick the heaviest oil based on your seasonal temperatures. 15W/40 is the better grade of oil for southern regions and summer climates.
I am planning a major vacation/trip and need a pretty long oci. What is special different about m1 extended performance than say regular old m1 5w30???
Besides price there is most likely nothing different between this hyped up oil and any other oil.
Oil is a lubricant. Pick the heaviest oil based on your seasonal temperatures. 15W/40 is the better grade of oil for southern regions and summer climates.
Originally Posted By: tradosaurus
Originally Posted By: evandostert
I am planning a major vacation/trip and need a pretty long oci. What is special different about m1 extended performance than say regular old m1 5w30???
Besides price there is most likely nothing different between this hyped up oil and any other oil.
Oil is a lubricant. Pick the heaviest oil based on your seasonal temperatures. 15W/40 is the better grade of oil for southern regions and summer climates.
what the [censored] dude!!!
Originally Posted By: evandostert
I am planning a major vacation/trip and need a pretty long oci. What is special different about m1 extended performance than say regular old m1 5w30???
Besides price there is most likely nothing different between this hyped up oil and any other oil.
Oil is a lubricant. Pick the heaviest oil based on your seasonal temperatures. 15W/40 is the better grade of oil for southern regions and summer climates.
what the [censored] dude!!!
- Status
Similar threads
