What Potential Harm From 0W Oils ?
- Thread starter ChrisD46
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Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
For a gas car or truck engine with 5W20 or 5W30 stamped on the oil fill cap - what is the potential harm in running a 0W20 or 0W30 oil ?
None.
But get ready to see a lot of these;
For a gas car or truck engine with 5W20 or 5W30 stamped on the oil fill cap - what is the potential harm in running a 0W20 or 0W30 oil ?
None.
But get ready to see a lot of these;
In my 2003 Acura MDX it had 5W-20 on the filler cap and in the owner's manual. I ran 0W-30, 5W-20, 5w30 and 0W-20 at various times. Even ran 10W-30 for awhile. Didn't seem to make much difference in performance, noise or fuel economy. Most were full synthetics but did use Motorcraft semi-synthetics for about 15k. I think you are perfectly safe in using 0W-30 during warm or cold times of the year and probably ok with 0W-20 during really cold times. So, I'd say there isn't much harm except that I would avoid 0W-20 in super hot climates or if doing extremely strenuous driving such as pulling a trailer or hauling heavy loads up steep grades.
0,more than likely has better base stock.
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
For a gas car or truck engine with 5W20 or 5W30 stamped on the oil fill cap - what is the potential harm in running a 0W20 or 0W30 oil ?
None.
But get ready to see a lot of these;
+1
Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
For a gas car or truck engine with 5W20 or 5W30 stamped on the oil fill cap - what is the potential harm in running a 0W20 or 0W30 oil ?
None.
But get ready to see a lot of these;
+1
Dont cross the streams then the next thing you know cats and dogs will start living together.
Originally Posted By: dave1251
Dont cross the streams then the next thing you know cats and dogs will start living together.
Whoa! Whoa! Whoa! You went straight to cats and dogs living together! Rather drastic, if you ask me.
Dont cross the streams then the next thing you know cats and dogs will start living together.
Whoa! Whoa! Whoa! You went straight to cats and dogs living together! Rather drastic, if you ask me.
Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
For a gas car or truck engine with 5W20 or 5W30 stamped on the oil fill cap - what is the potential harm in running a 0W20 or 0W30 oil ?
The 0W has nothing to do with hot operating temp's.
Technically it just means the oil will still pump at -40 degrees.
Additionally 0W oils tend to have higher viscosity indexes than than 5W oils.
For that reason they are at least semi-synthetic and generally formulated from higher quality base oil stocks.
For a gas car or truck engine with 5W20 or 5W30 stamped on the oil fill cap - what is the potential harm in running a 0W20 or 0W30 oil ?
The 0W has nothing to do with hot operating temp's.
Technically it just means the oil will still pump at -40 degrees.
Additionally 0W oils tend to have higher viscosity indexes than than 5W oils.
For that reason they are at least semi-synthetic and generally formulated from higher quality base oil stocks.
If the vehicle is under warranty, warranty compliance can be an issue. Most dealers and mfg reps do not agree that a 0w oil can replace a 5w oil, even though most oil companies say otherwise.
Originally Posted By: The Critic
If the vehicle is under warranty, warranty compliance can be an issue. Most dealers and mfg reps do not agree that a 0w oil can replace a 5w oil, even though most oil companies say otherwise.
As if dealers and mfg rep's know a d@mn thing technically about motor oil.
That said, 0W-20 oils do tend to be lighter than 5W-20 oils even at operating temp's. It has nothing to do with them being 0W but rather that as a class many 0W-20 oils are just formulated to be lighter, especially OEM 0W-20s.
If the vehicle is under warranty, warranty compliance can be an issue. Most dealers and mfg reps do not agree that a 0w oil can replace a 5w oil, even though most oil companies say otherwise.
As if dealers and mfg rep's know a d@mn thing technically about motor oil.
That said, 0W-20 oils do tend to be lighter than 5W-20 oils even at operating temp's. It has nothing to do with them being 0W but rather that as a class many 0W-20 oils are just formulated to be lighter, especially OEM 0W-20s.
Originally Posted By: Kuato
I've been running 0w30 almost exclusively in both our Jeeps for a couple of years now.
Which 0w30 have you been running, GC? Have you done any UOA's?
I've been running 0w30 almost exclusively in both our Jeeps for a couple of years now.
Which 0w30 have you been running, GC? Have you done any UOA's?
The only problem with 0w oils is that there is not a greater selection of 0W30's at WM.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: The Critic
If the vehicle is under warranty, warranty compliance can be an issue. Most dealers and mfg reps do not agree that a 0w oil can replace a 5w oil, even though most oil companies say otherwise.
As if dealers and mfg rep's know a d@mn thing technically about motor oil.
That said, 0W-20 oils do tend to be lighter than 5W-20 oils even at operating temp's. It has nothing to do with them being 0W but rather that as a class many 0W-20 oils are just formulated to be lighter, especially OEM 0W-20s.
Right, but if you have a warranty claim, you are at their mercy.
Originally Posted By: The Critic
If the vehicle is under warranty, warranty compliance can be an issue. Most dealers and mfg reps do not agree that a 0w oil can replace a 5w oil, even though most oil companies say otherwise.
As if dealers and mfg rep's know a d@mn thing technically about motor oil.
That said, 0W-20 oils do tend to be lighter than 5W-20 oils even at operating temp's. It has nothing to do with them being 0W but rather that as a class many 0W-20 oils are just formulated to be lighter, especially OEM 0W-20s.
Right, but if you have a warranty claim, you are at their mercy.
Get out the whips, I've gone the other way on my Accord by using PU 5w-20 insead of 0W because I have a good stock on hand from the recent WM clearances.
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: The Critic
If the vehicle is under warranty, warranty compliance can be an issue. Most dealers and mfg reps do not agree that a 0w oil can replace a 5w oil, even though most oil companies say otherwise.
As if dealers and mfg rep's know a d@mn thing technically about motor oil.
That said, 0W-20 oils do tend to be lighter than 5W-20 oils even at operating temp's. It has nothing to do with them being 0W but rather that as a class many 0W-20 oils are just formulated to be lighter, especially OEM 0W-20s.
Right, but if you have a warranty claim, you are at their mercy.
Mr Critic, I have asked this Q? elsewhere with no replies. Can you tell me, in detail, how a car manufacturer and its engineers, determine what wt. an engine oil is, and how it might have ruined an engine if such claim is made? It seems they would have to be NASA scientist or darn near that.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: The Critic
If the vehicle is under warranty, warranty compliance can be an issue. Most dealers and mfg reps do not agree that a 0w oil can replace a 5w oil, even though most oil companies say otherwise.
As if dealers and mfg rep's know a d@mn thing technically about motor oil.
That said, 0W-20 oils do tend to be lighter than 5W-20 oils even at operating temp's. It has nothing to do with them being 0W but rather that as a class many 0W-20 oils are just formulated to be lighter, especially OEM 0W-20s.
Right, but if you have a warranty claim, you are at their mercy.
Mr Critic, I have asked this Q? elsewhere with no replies. Can you tell me, in detail, how a car manufacturer and its engineers, determine what wt. an engine oil is, and how it might have ruined an engine if such claim is made? It seems they would have to be NASA scientist or darn near that.
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Mr Critic, I have asked this Q? elsewhere with no replies. Can you tell me, in detail, how a car manufacturer and its engineers, determine what wt. an engine oil is, and how it might have ruined an engine if such claim is made? It seems they would have to be NASA scientist or darn near that.
I would wager that most claims never reach that stage. A simple denial from a dealer or manufacturer is enough for most owners to move on. The average owner does not have the time or financial resources to battle a vehicle manufacturer on a warranty claim denial. Remember, the vehicle is out of service while you attempt to fight the manufacturer, and you're left without transportation. It is simply irresponsible for people on this forum to continue advocating against using the OEM specified lubricant while a vehicle is under warranty; most people who take their advice are not in a position to fight the manufacturer in the event of a warranty claim.
Mr Critic, I have asked this Q? elsewhere with no replies. Can you tell me, in detail, how a car manufacturer and its engineers, determine what wt. an engine oil is, and how it might have ruined an engine if such claim is made? It seems they would have to be NASA scientist or darn near that.
I would wager that most claims never reach that stage. A simple denial from a dealer or manufacturer is enough for most owners to move on. The average owner does not have the time or financial resources to battle a vehicle manufacturer on a warranty claim denial. Remember, the vehicle is out of service while you attempt to fight the manufacturer, and you're left without transportation. It is simply irresponsible for people on this forum to continue advocating against using the OEM specified lubricant while a vehicle is under warranty; most people who take their advice are not in a position to fight the manufacturer in the event of a warranty claim.
The wife's 2007 Kia Sedona 3.8L just turned over 100K miles ...Since it's out of warrentee now I am tempted to try a 0W30 M1 (5W20 shown on the fill cap) and run it 6K miles / 6 months . My Hyundai is still under warrentee so probably best to stay with 5W20 (as stamped on the oil fill cap) .
Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
The wife's 2007 Kia Sedona 3.8L just turned over 100K miles ...Since it's out of warrentee now I am tempted to try a 0W30 M1 (5W20 shown on the fill cap) and run it 6K miles / 6 months . My Hyundai is still under warrentee so probably best to stay with 5W20 (as stamped on the oil fill cap) .
Why only 6K?
The wife's 2007 Kia Sedona 3.8L just turned over 100K miles ...Since it's out of warrentee now I am tempted to try a 0W30 M1 (5W20 shown on the fill cap) and run it 6K miles / 6 months . My Hyundai is still under warrentee so probably best to stay with 5W20 (as stamped on the oil fill cap) .
Why only 6K?
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