Switching from 0w-20 to 0w-30 experience

[SureshR]

I was never aware of fuel dilution phenomenon when I bought this car used at 21k. So I did a close to 5k run and sampled it thinking it was going to be perfect. So I decided I can do 3k max oil changes with cheaper oils. However I recently switched back to Amsoil products and experimenting with 5w30 and 10w30 Amsoil XL 20k formula see how it does with 5-6k runs.

Using boutique oils and just doing 5-6k OCI is an utter waste of money when any competent group III should last at least 5K. Sounds like you need a higher weight or at least higher HTHS oil than what you're using for your engine, that is with HTHS at the upper rather than lower end of what the specified oil grade is - that at least should give you enough of a safety margin before fuel dilutes your oil beyond providing useful protection.

 

[tired]

Formulations change all the time. With or without an API license change and within or outside Annex E interchange allowances.

You said “It's significant when formulations change, and what made the oil so impressive is removed”. I suppose I’m after what it was that was removed and made it no longer “so impressive”. I think one could make the argument that it is improved considering it now has BMW Longlife-01 approval which it lost for a while.

Thank you for the reply. I appreciate you pointing out what you took issue with and why. Very poor word choice on my point that I only see in hindsight now. I didn't communicate my point well.

What I was referring to was the formula change removing the ester (and ANs and PAO?? Memory fuzzy on that one. Possibly just decreasing PAO. I'm sure someone can correct me.) and transitioning it to a group III oil alone now.

I think it regained the LL-01 approval because of the decreased virgin oxidation which is requirement for LL. (And why 0w30 M1 ESP lacks it but 5w30 has it, for example.)

Even though my poor phrasing would suggest otherwise, I wasn't trying to say it is a "bad" oil now. Just different than what Dave at HPL said was the best OTS oil available. (And maybe he'd still say the same if it were tested again, as I mentioned above, but to my knowledge, there haven't been additional tests.)

 

[Hohn]

If that were true, EPA would have never allowed, and almost no manufacturers would have taken the CAFE hit if they could pick up 10% by sticking with smaller diameter rims.

My vehicle comes with 18s or 20s depending on trim level, and considering that the Touring trim with 20s weighs several hundred pounds more in luxury upgrades over the base model with 18s and suffers less than a 3% mileage hit, I’d love to see some industry data backing your 10% claim as I’d switch tomorrow if that were true.

This is only true if your usage perfectly mimics the EPA test cycles.

When I went from 225/45r17s on my IS250 down to 205/60r16s on STEEL wheels, I gained 4mpg quite consistently and with nearly identical revs/mile is was not due to speedometer error. Despite going to steel wheels, the weight reduction per wheel was 8# of unsprung mass. Never mind the rotational inertia due to how that weight is distributed.

I really which steel would make a comeback in wheels. A356 casting alloy can have it's specific yield strength easily exceeded by even basic 4140 alloy, allowing a steel wheel to be no heavier than an aluminum counterpart while being stiffer and having superior fatigue properties.

 

[4WD]

This is only true if your usage perfectly mimics the EPA test cycles.

When I went from 225/45r17s on my IS250 down to 205/60r16s on STEEL wheels, I gained 4mpg quite consistently and with nearly identical revs/mile is was not due to speedometer error. Despite going to steel wheels, the weight reduction per wheel was 8# of unsprung mass. Never mind the rotational inertia due to how that weight is distributed.

I really which steel would make a comeback in wheels. A356 casting alloy can have it's specific yield strength easily exceeded by even basic 4140 alloy, allowing a steel wheel to be no heavier than an aluminum counterpart while being stiffer and having superior fatigue properties.

Can you find them with good coating ? If not, want to get them coated right away - have seen “steelies” ate up in three winters bcs they come with such a poor/thin coating …
Even in Texas - all of my trailers get changed to galvanized …
The OEM rims are horrible …

 

[Hohn]

Can you find them with good coating ? If not, want to get them coated right away - have seen “steelies” ate up in three winters bcs they come with such a poor/thin coating …
Even in Texas - all of my trailers get changed to galvanized …
The OEM rims are horrible …

I have mine a bath of Surface Shield and they looked rust free after two Indiana winters when I sold the car.

 

[Synth vibes]

I really appreciate

Your approach to this

Given your use case it is as scientific as you can do.

I also appreciate the numbers you shared with psi, temp and mpg.

Even if the difference is negligible, it is fun to see people dive into these topics and share experiences .

And ultimately, you are taking smart steps to keep your vehicle running it's best and keeping you and your fam safe.

Cheers