Replaced the rear seat back cover in the Highlander. Three minute job.
What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
Redid a lot of sketchy wiring and mounting. A lot of bolts and screws stuck up and got caught on the sheets. Sometimes on the road you just make it work and deal with it later.. like 10 years later. One of the lights wires was pinched right from the factory, led's probably prevented a fire. The stereo sounds pretty good with the 6.5's mounted that way, kinda ugly though. Might order another jvc with Bluetooth though.
Pulling the carpet up and just cleaning isn't quite going to work. That looks like a factory cut but why? Guess a trip to a u pull it yard is in my future.
Pulling the carpet up and just cleaning isn't quite going to work. That looks like a factory cut but why? Guess a trip to a u pull it yard is in my future.
Not technically updating as this truck still uses the same "as built" calibration....GM never needed to release a TEHCM update to fix a issue.
What I was doing was reprogramming a used '17 Silverado 1500 6L80E TEHCM over to the '15 Silverado 2500 6L90E calibration & OS.
About 80% of the time I can clone a 6L80E/6L90E TEHCM using HP-Tuners if I have a good TEHCM with the same OS as the faulty one via a Segment Swap., If the operating system ID numbers doesn't match I have to reprogram using GM SPS2.
I Program, Reprogram, Clone & Tune TEHCM's for several Transmission Shops in the area as I can do them stand alone/bench program without the vehicle or transmission present.....Mobile module programming outfits around here are flaky diva's!
Got the trans buttoned up & installed, Coolers flushed, 14 quarts of Dexron VI & a thorough test drive for the TCM to learn the clutch volumes. Customer declined having it tuned.....But I detest the TCC scheduling on '14 & up GM 6L80E/6L90E units. So I ate the $100 & 20 minutes.
GM has the TCC come on right after the 1-2 shift, Partially unlock during every upshift after that & never fully lock....Even at 80 mph cruising in 6th.
I disabled lock-up in all lower 4 gears, Left 5th & 6th TCC tables alone, And set ALL TCC Desired Slip RPM tables to Zero.
Back in the early 90's there was a local Honda dealer that would order Civic's without any stereo in them at all and then bring them to the shop I worked at for a simple Sony shaft style head unit, 2 cheap door speakers, and an antenna. They specifically instructed us that the factory harness was to be cut since they didn't want to pay for the Metra adapter, and our owner was too weak to insist on it.
There were many hundreds of brand new Civics out there rolling around with a cut factory harness. Don't remember how much the dealer charged the end customer for it, as I recall it was something like a $200 invoice with $35 of it going towards the installer's numbers.
Hated doing it every single time, but sometimes you do as you're told.
At least they opted for Sony, over something like Sparco. And really, a half-decent installer can do a great job with splices, wire lengths and routing. Did your team “learn” the cable colors and wire lengths and get them into a half-decent process? Or was every civic like the first time ever?
Last night worked on our 2018 CX-9 and my nephew's 2010 Crown Vic.
CX-9 got some new plugs at 73,323 miles. Old ones looked good
Mazda calls for 40k intervals on the plugs. Used NGK Iridiums.
Crown Vic needed a window motor and regulator on the driver rear side. Pretty straightforward. Only modification was drilling out the rivets and replacing with 1/4 inch bolts.
CX-9 got some new plugs at 73,323 miles. Old ones looked good
Mazda calls for 40k intervals on the plugs. Used NGK Iridiums.Crown Vic needed a window motor and regulator on the driver rear side. Pretty straightforward. Only modification was drilling out the rivets and replacing with 1/4 inch bolts.
So, I can’t get the tripod bearing off to reboot the old CV. Going to try another puller/more hammering later this week.
I put the backup (new) replacement cv in and got it buttoned up.
Demo lots of demo. Not sure how Jayco managed to build it, two screws must of put in with magic. Found some hidden water damage looks like the passenger side tail light is leaking. Now just need take all the electrical off the old bed base. Once the twin bed base is built will rearrange everything.
My very good friend bought a brand new '78 Datsun long bed PU our senior year in HS. He bought the truck with radio delete. He got a in-dash Sanyo cassette deck and started the install.
I was helping him run wires, we made some custom harnesses using Molex connectors, etc.
It got time to find a lighting circuit for the head unit. We didn't have a wiring schematic; there was a wire running to the headlight switch. My friend told me to splice into the lighting wire going to the headlamp switch. I was reluctant but I took a side cutter to it. It made a crunch sound. Datsun used a fiber optic to light the headlight knob instead of a bulb.
Ohh no, I used to know it like the back of my hand.
They were clean installs, just...meh.
Oops. Hard lesson to learn.
OCI on a 2020 Elantra, on its second 2.0 Nu engine 
It had a Purolator Tech TL14612 filter on it, which I found insulting
So it got Total MC3 5w30, because IMO the 5w20 isn't enough, and a PG/OE H/K filter
Air the tires, note the owners manual for warranty records, spin round the block, then back it out of my driveway and into my neighbor's across the street
Door to door service
Then checked a neighbors oil burning 2018 Compass (2.4 Multiair 50k), I instructed her to go in for the PCM update to reduce oil consumption, she just had it done last week
It was still about 2qts low
I filled it properly, next change will be a better grasp on if it made a difference
If not, I think there's a warranty extension on the engine if it fails a consumption test
Looked over my dad's dying work van
Wrong, and even wrong-er
It's not rocket science to get the right bulbs, and yet people still screw up
Then I tidied the shed, discovered that yes indeed I have far too much oil in stock, and that more shelving is required
Bottled coolant for disposal in old washer fluid bottles, need to empty the bulk oil containers at the waste disposal event coming soon
The Villager might need a PCM, as it's unable to communicate with the inspection computer, but I wanted to verify what part # I had
It's a chore would be an understatement
It had a Purolator Tech TL14612 filter on it, which I found insulting
So it got Total MC3 5w30, because IMO the 5w20 isn't enough, and a PG/OE H/K filter
Air the tires, note the owners manual for warranty records, spin round the block, then back it out of my driveway and into my neighbor's across the street
Door to door service
Then checked a neighbors oil burning 2018 Compass (2.4 Multiair 50k), I instructed her to go in for the PCM update to reduce oil consumption, she just had it done last week
It was still about 2qts low
I filled it properly, next change will be a better grasp on if it made a difference
If not, I think there's a warranty extension on the engine if it fails a consumption test
Looked over my dad's dying work van
Wrong, and even wrong-er
It's not rocket science to get the right bulbs, and yet people still screw up
Then I tidied the shed, discovered that yes indeed I have far too much oil in stock, and that more shelving is required
Bottled coolant for disposal in old washer fluid bottles, need to empty the bulk oil containers at the waste disposal event coming soon
The Villager might need a PCM, as it's unable to communicate with the inspection computer, but I wanted to verify what part # I had
It's a chore would be an understatement
Picked up a cheap parts bike for my son's Cobra...but now I'm working to get it running to just keep as a backup/practice bike. Installed new rings and fired it up today. Runs great, but I need to do a few other things before he can throw his leg over it.
Today I did an oil change on my brother's CR-V with the 2.4l. He had a check engine light on with a P2646 code: "'A' Rocker Arm Actuator System Performance / Stuck Off Bank 1". The oil was about 1/2 quart below the add mark and about 10k miles since the last oil change so I changed it with new filter and some 5w-20 Kirkland synthetic. I cleared the codes and the code didn't come back after a 20 minute test drive. It seems like the VVT solenoid and pressure switch have been replaced at some point. It was really clean and the harness looked like it had been disturbed, but I'm kind of expecting the problem to come back.
Put two loaded rear struts on a Toyota Venza. Super easy job. Local Firestone quoted him $1200 parts and labor. Local independent quoted him 1000. I got two Gabriel ready mounts and installed them for $450.
Replaced the power steering pump, power steering hoses and belts on my 78 F250. This one got a little hairy. It was a GM Saginaw pump, with a pressure hose from a Bronco and an adapter to fit the line to the pump.
The adapter had become a permanent part of the crusty old hose. The pressure fittings I had were all GM style and would not thread into the new Ford line I had. So by trial and error I discovered that the power steering pressure fitting from a 95 F150 will fit into the GM style pump and accept the fitting from a Ford line.
Replaced the power steering pump, power steering hoses and belts on my 78 F250. This one got a little hairy. It was a GM Saginaw pump, with a pressure hose from a Bronco and an adapter to fit the line to the pump.
The adapter had become a permanent part of the crusty old hose. The pressure fittings I had were all GM style and would not thread into the new Ford line I had. So by trial and error I discovered that the power steering pressure fitting from a 95 F150 will fit into the GM style pump and accept the fitting from a Ford line.
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I took all four baffroom vents apart. Cleaned. Scrubbed the covers. Clean as a whistle now.
Then I put two cotton pads soaked in peppermint oil and Gorilla taped two pads at the opening of each squirrely fan.
Yet another ingress spot for fake ladybugs. Non-deadly way to deter them
Then I put two cotton pads soaked in peppermint oil and Gorilla taped two pads at the opening of each squirrely fan.
Yet another ingress spot for fake ladybugs. Non-deadly way to deter them
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2021
- Messages
- 1,597
I wasn't going to work today, but I decided to anyway so I can take Friday off without feeling too bad about it.
1986 Toyota 4runner
Cleaned, lubed and reassembled rear brake adjusters, reassembled, cleaned and adjusted rear brakes, replaced front brake pads, replaced left inner tie rod
2010 Ford Ranger 4.0 V6
Replaced cylinder 2 fuel injector, thermostat housing, radiator and changed the oil
1986 Toyota 4runner
Cleaned, lubed and reassembled rear brake adjusters, reassembled, cleaned and adjusted rear brakes, replaced front brake pads, replaced left inner tie rod
2010 Ford Ranger 4.0 V6
Replaced cylinder 2 fuel injector, thermostat housing, radiator and changed the oil
From a couple days ago.
Programmed two TPMS sensors. Tire shop swapped the sensors for $15/tire.
The original plan was to swap the dead L/R sensor. Several hours after the initial scan/diagnosis, the R/R sensoe was found to be unresponsive. So, we ended up replacing two sensors.
Programmed two TPMS sensors. Tire shop swapped the sensors for $15/tire.
The original plan was to swap the dead L/R sensor. Several hours after the initial scan/diagnosis, the R/R sensoe was found to be unresponsive. So, we ended up replacing two sensors.
Sick for a week and a half with Covid but almost fully recovered. Working on the Kubota D722, made a water pump gasket, they dont sell them individually. Made a fuel solenoid block off plate. Torqued the flywheel. Next up is cutting and re-welding the engine side bar mounts, once I figure out how to weld.
