Warranty questions

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Tucson Five-O

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Good afternoon everyone. Sunny & 64 here in Tucson today. :-)

Have a 2008 Impala with the 3.5L v-6 engine. It spec's 5w30 oil.

Question 1: if I decide to try Amsoil non-API oil is the warranty in danger in the event of any problems?

Question 2: if I want to try a little lighter oil, like the ASM (100C-9.0 viscosity) does it matter, since the oil is already non-API?

Question 3: if the UOAs on the Amsoil 0w-20 run down to 0% on the OLM come back stellar like I expect, I may reset the OLM and run it longer, to say, another 50% then retest, using the EAO oil filter to help the process a little. If I follow this course, does the longer OCI's further affect the warranty?

In other words, does using the Amsoil, regardless of grade or OCI automatically void everything if there is a problem, or does any problem have to attributed or caused by the oil, whether API or not and its condition at the time in this engine?

My other option that I am mulling over is to blend PP 5w-20 with PP 5w30 50/50 to get a thin 5w30 (just over the 9.3 100C viscosity)

I know there is debate on this forum over what does and doesn't cause warranty problems. I respect all opinions here and appreciate all input.

I do not want any potential problems, but I think that the 0w-20 Amsoil ASM is an outstanding oil. The engine is the old cam-in-block design with roller hydraulic lifters with VVT. Unless there is something in the bottom end that doesn't like the thin oil I think it will be fine. And I am aware that most of the 5w30 oils, synthetic or not (maybe excluding Valvoline Synpower) will shear, probably by design, to 20w in 1-2K miles, so why not start with the top quality ASM oil?

Thanks,
Gary
 
Amsoil will only back you using the correct grade. If you use a 0w30 or 5w30, then Amsoil will back you up, but you can't drop to a 0W-20 or a 5W-20.

It probably won't hurt anything but if something goes wrong, engines are not cheap.
 
Read this before you try screwing around with oils and oil change intervals beyond what the OEM recommends.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/posts/553323/

If you want to run Amsoil, just stay with the ASL 5w30. It's API approved and meets OEM requirements. Follow the OLM. In Tuscon, you'll probably get 7,000+ miles before the OLM gets to 0.

Past warranty, run Amsoil 0w-1 for 10 year intervals if you like, since it'll be your dime if the motor grenades!

I'd personally want no problems if the motor dies under the 5 year/100K GM power train warranty.
 
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Originally Posted By: Tucson Five-O
..The engine is the old cam-in-block design with roller hydraulic lifters with VVT. Unless there is something in the bottom end that doesn't like the thin oil I think it will be fine. And I am aware that most of the 5w30 oils, synthetic or not (maybe excluding Valvoline Synpower) will shear, probably by design, to 20w in 1-2K miles, so why not start with the top quality ASM oil?

Thanks,
Gary



Gary, that's the way I see it. You could run anything from a 0w20 to a 15w40 and that engine wouldn't skip a beat. It would probably take 20w50 without issue in hot climates. Thing is- I don't know that you'll see a measurable fuel economy gain with a 5w20 or 0w20. I'm on my second batch of (off spec) 5w20 in my 2007 Cobalt Ecotec 2.2L. I've been running it at least a year now. I can't see a MPG gain with my use. The only possible way GM would deny a warranty claim is if you showed them off spec oil change receipts or told them you ran other than 5w30. It would have to be a horribly ugly warranty claim for GM to hire CSI to figure out what used oil you have in the sump.

Joel
 
Definitely don't want to go 20w-50 in these motors as the VVT would never activate. I can feel on our 07 in the cold weather that it takes a little bit for the VVT to really start working after the oil warms up a bit. Once it activates, you can accelerate at 1,100 rpm in high gear going 40 mph rather quickly.
 
Always, always follow the owners manual and the service bulletins. If there is an engine failure that can be linked to oil in the very, very slightest way and if you aren't using what they say.....they have grounds to deny coverage.

I say service bulletins because..... My Toyota 4-Runner's manual requires 5w30, as is stated on the oil fill cap on the engine. But, a service bulletin that came out about a year after I purchased stated that 5w20 was approved.

My daughters warranty through Toyota ends 4 years after purchase or 48,000 miles. She is closing in on 28k miles and will be to 48k before I blink my eyes. Until 48k, I will religously change the oil every 5k miles....and yes, I am using synthetic. But bet your lucky stars....once I reach 48k, I will pour Amsoil in that puppy and OCI every 12 months.

Where my 4-Runner is concerned....I have a 7yr/100k warranty....so every 6 months it will get a fresh fill of synthetic. Yep...I hope to keep this 4-Runner for 10-15 years and want her pristine on the inside.

By the way...no sense to flame me for 6 month OCI's with synthetic. I do it because it makes me feel better and because I live at 7k elevation, regularly going above 10k, pulling mountain passes and I want the extra protection from the stress and very, very friggid temps.
 
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BigJohn My daughters warranty through Toyota ends 4 years after purchase or 48 said:
My warranty on the 06 vibe just ran out at 36k miles. I've been doing 7500-10000k oci with synthetic since new. The warranty was change the oil in all conditions with 3 months/5k miles. I guess I missed out on a couple of oil changes
grin2.gif
Click to expand...
 
Quote:
Question 1: if I decide to try Amsoil non-API oil is the warranty in danger in the event of any problems?

Question 2: if I want to try a little lighter oil, like the ASM (100C-9.0 viscosity) does it matter, since the oil is already non-API?

Question 3: if the UOAs on the Amsoil 0w-20 run down to 0% on the OLM come back stellar like I expect, I may reset the OLM and run it longer, to say, another 50% then retest, using the EAO oil filter to help the process a little. If I follow this course, does the longer OCI's further affect the warranty?


1) Absolutely NOT.

2) You really should stick with the correct viscosity. Indeed Amsoil's warranty says so as well.

3) I would think you would have a stronger case.

Quote:

In other words, does using the Amsoil, regardless of grade or OCI automatically void everything if there is a problem, or does any problem have to attributed or caused by the oil, whether API or not and its condition at the time in this engine?


No. Using Amsoil will not automatically void your warranty.

We do need a better search engine. This one just popped up yesterday (and a bunch of times before)
 
Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
Definitely don't want to go 20w-50 in these motors as the VVT would never activate.


Yeah, 20w50 would be extreme. I was under the impression the VVT actuator on these pushrodders was electronic and nothing to do with oil or oil pressure? (It's the triangular shaped thing above the crank pulley for those not familiar.)
09%203.5L%20V6%20VVT%20LZE%20IMP%20LoR.jpg


Joel
 
Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
Read this before you try screwing around with oils and oil change intervals beyond what the OEM recommends.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/posts/553323/

If you want to run Amsoil, just stay with the ASL 5w30. It's API approved and meets OEM requirements. Follow the OLM. In Tuscon, you'll probably get 7,000+ miles before the OLM gets to 0.

Past warranty, run Amsoil 0w-1 for 10 year intervals if you like, since it'll be your dime if the motor grenades!

I'd personally want no problems if the motor dies under the 5 year/100K GM power train warranty.


I don't think ASL is API approved. It does not have the API on the bottle. (at least the bottles I had)

XL was API approved but I just checked and Amsoil has changed it and it says recommended for; Before it said API approved SM.

Pablo? Did they change something here with XL? I know the web site changed, how about the oil?

Bill
 
Originally Posted By: JTK
Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
Definitely don't want to go 20w-50 in these motors as the VVT would never activate.


Yeah, 20w50 would be extreme. I was under the impression the VVT actuator on these pushrodders was electronic and nothing to do with oil or oil pressure? (It's the triangular shaped thing above the crank pulley for those not familiar.)
09%203.5L%20V6%20VVT%20LZE%20IMP%20LoR.jpg


Joel


I believe the actual mechanism/cam gear is hydraulic/oil pressure activated, but it's electronically controlled.
 
I would use the recommended visc oil ant the recommended oil change intervals {olm} Unless the engine requires syn oil or you are pushing oil change intervals greatly the added cost of syn oil is not buying you anything for the extra money spent. The engine should outlast the ownership of the car unless some mechanicle problem occurs then syn won't help anyway
 
i would go with the 5-30 as reccomended...if you change your oil and follow olm, it would be hard for them to deny warranty...i know there is some law about car warrantys somewhere on net
 
Putting warranty issues aside, I think the ASM would be a great choice if you were to use a 20wt oil.
 
Originally Posted By: Pablo
http://eolcs.api.org/DisplayLicenseInfo.asp?LicenseNo=0995


Gets me....

Schedule A - License Agreement
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[Microsoft][ODBC SQL Server Driver][SQL Server]Line 1: Incorrect syntax near '='.

/EOLCSdbFunctions.inc, line 745
 
To avoid any possible problems down the road it is best to stick with what the owner's manual tells you while under factory warranty. Run the listed weight(s), do the OC by the OLM or the mileage limit given, and DO NOT use non API certified oils. Make sure the API certified oil you use also has the API Starburst symbol per the manual( some aftermarket companies with API certified oils - usually service level SL - that can't have the Starburst symbol offer suplemental warranties to cover you if denied by the car mfg for using the wrong oil - believe they will actually help you at your own risk - all depends on the company's integrity ).

Don't for a second believe anyone that tells you you can do otherwise and not have warranty issues "if" you have engine problems. Unless it is something like the oil pump or some other interanl part failed for a non lubrication reason GM is going to require proof of proper maintenance. Chances are they will require it period regardless of what happened. They are going to demand receipts unless you had all the OC's done at the dealer where they are recorded.

Those who will try and tell you to do what you wish will try and use the Magnuson-Moss act to defend those claims but the truth is that law does not allow you to do whatever the heck you want to. The car mfg has a legal right, even under that law, to set requirements you must meet to preserve that factory warranty.

Keep in mind as well we are talking "warranty requirements/car mfg rights" here and not what is good or bad oil, not following the manual 100% will blow your motor up, or anything like that. The car mfg has a LEGAL RIGHT to require you follow some requirements to preserve that warranty they provide to you. Just the same as Amsoil has requirements they will hold you to if you try and make a claim under their supplemental warranty. GM has the same rights Amsoil does.

Some things can be pushed a little in regards to what you do with your vehicle under warranty if you know what you are doing and have a common sense service department to deal with but it isn't a lot of leeway. I worked dealer service and have dealt with these situations when consumers go against the manual and have problems THEN get no help from the aftermarket companies who promised it if they did what they said rather than what the car mfg says. It blows me away when I read some of the outrageous claims made by aftermarket companies( I am NOT singling Amsoil out here before anyone jumps me - this is a generic comment covering the entire aftermarket )about what car mfg's can and can't do with warranties they provide us. Simply amazing the bravado so many of them display. I feel bad for consumers who believe half of what they shovel.

Botom line based on my experience in the business and based on reading the pertinent law(s)...

They CAN tell you what weight(s) you can use
They CAN tell you the fluid must meet or exceed standard XXXX( car mfg's )
They CAN tell you it must be API certified( carry the Starburst symbol or meet the listed service level XX )
They CAN tell you how often it must be changed

That is just how it is. What they can not do is make you use OEM fluids/parts nor force you to have regular maintenance and non warranty repairs done at the dealer. They can not do that unless they provide the parts and labor free.

While you are under the factory warranty stick with the 5w30; or 0w30 if that is allowed in the manual. The 3.5L does great on 5w30. Do not run 10W-40, 20W-50, 5W-20, or anyother weight not listed as approved by GM in your manual. Use an oil that meets or exceeds GM6094M( doesn't have to be "GM Certified" just needs to meet or exceed the spec )and has the API Starburst Symbol as required. Change it by the OLM or whatever mileage limit is listed in your manual.

If Amsoil offers an API certified 5w30 that carries the Starburst symbol then use that oil by all means. I believe they have one oil line that would qualify but if they don't then use another brand while under warranty. Once your 100,000 mile PT Warrranty expires use whatever you want. Until then follow the owner's manual.
 
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