Valvoline Restore & Protect

[altaylar]

My diesel takes 15 quarts.

I wonder if throwing say 2 to 3 quarts of VRP in with a quality diesel spec oil (with a robust additive package), over the course of a few oil changes, would give the cleaning benefit over time without diluting what a diesel spec oil needs to accomplish?

Personally I would not do it. The downside seems bigger than the upside.

 

[tired]

Ingredient disclosure? There is none other than hazardous materials on the SDS. Even then that can be accommodated for in regards to trade secrets.

If you mean performance requirements, then I just to take a look at the Afton Specification Handbook. There is a copy linked somewhere on this site.

I have read that this is why Valvoline has not pursued Dexos certification (the requirement to disclose ingredients) for VRP. Hence why I wondered if this might be a barrier to a Euro VRP. Unclear what this has to do with performance requirements.

 

[altaylar]

I have read that this is why Valvoline has not pursued Dexos certification (the requirement to disclose ingredients) for VRP. Hence why I wondered if this might be a barrier to a Euro VRP. Unclear what this has to do with performance requirements.

My gut feeling would be not to use VRP like PUP, and rather only use it for a couple oil changes to clean the engine. The reason is that, cleaning vs maintaining should require different concentrations of their magic, and this oil aiming for the former should be making it off balanced for the latter. There is probably a trade off there, that they did not optimize for prolonged use.

But this is pure speculation based on rule of thumb kinda reasoning.

 

[tired]

My gut feeling would be not to use VRP like PUP, and rather only use it for a couple oil changes to clean the engine. The reason is that, cleaning vs maintaining should require different concentrations of their magic, and this oil aiming for the former should be making it off balanced for the latter. There is probably a trade off there, that they did not optimize for prolonged use.

But this is pure speculation based on rule of thumb kinda reasoning.

Personally I would defer to the engineers at Valvoline and not try to do their job for them. It’s formulated to clean very gently. It takes 4+ OCIs to complete its magic. It is not like the Valvoline Premium Blue product which is intended to be used once. The detergent used is safe for permanent use. Why are you trying to complicate this?

I’m curious, would you only use HPL once then because it cleans so well? Or do you think it’s ok to be used indefinitely?

 

[kschachn]

My gut feeling would be not to use VRP like PUP, and rather only use it for a couple oil changes to clean the engine. The reason is that, cleaning vs maintaining should require different concentrations of their magic, and this oil aiming for the former should be making it off balanced for the latter. There is probably a trade off there, that they did not optimize for prolonged use.

But this is pure speculation based on rule of thumb kinda reasoning.

I suppose I would not worry since VRP has an API SP license.

 

[kschachn]

I have read that this is why Valvoline has not pursued Dexos certification (the requirement to disclose ingredients) for VRP. Hence why I wondered if this might be a barrier to a Euro VRP. Unclear what this has to do with performance requirements.

Me too that’s why I asked.

 

[ndarkside93]

Curious at what mileage you changed the intermediate filters?

I’ve read all 138 pages of this thread and I’d like to try VRP in my newly acquired 2012 CRV with 117K on the clock. There were consistent oil changes for ~50K miles, but then other dubious “holes” in its history. Judging from the crust and varnish I see in the oil fill, I’m guessing there were some extended OCI’s. I’m trying to gauge how long to run the VRP before swapping out the initial filters. This car is going to have lots of short trips and will probably only reach 3-5K miles per year. Thanks in advance!

I would go for 3k miles given the lack of oil change history for parts of the cars history. After the first change I would say you can safely run 5k or annual intervals.

 

[altaylar]

I suppose I would not worry since VRP has an API SP license.

You are right, i dont think there is any need to worry, and it should be more than okay to use. I was just thinking it may not be the optimal choice. Like, on this forum we are all splitting the hair, people choose 0w30 M1 because it has a couple percent PAO that is missing in 5w30 and so on.
Otherwise i have no doubt this oil should keep an engine happy through one's ownership. Just like PUP or M1 would do.

Personally I would defer to the engineers at Valvoline and not try to do their job for them. It’s formulated to clean very gently. It takes 4+ OCIs to complete its magic. It is not like the Valvoline Premium Blue product which is intended to be used once. The detergent used is safe for permanent use. Why are you trying to complicate this?

I’m curious, would you only use HPL once then because it cleans so well? Or do you think it’s ok to be used indefinitely?

Yeah i see your point, i think my comment above should answer that.
Regarding HPL, I am not really familiar with their products so I canmot comment. But I have a car that I occasionally use and I put more important in the Molybdenum content of the oil I use in that for start up protection, whereas in my daily driver I aim for low Mo to keep the oil clean while also looking for low HTHS for minimum fuel consumption. My track car gets a very high HTHS ester base oil for protection and thermal stability. As our favorite youtuber says, application dictates chemistry.

But ones again, if one wants to use VRP rather, lets say Pennzoil Platinium, all through their ownership of a vehicle, I don't think they would be facing a significant different hazard function. I just would not think its the optimal choice. Not yet at least

 

[CarguyP]

Impressive you read the whole thread before asking a question!

With that low of mileage, I’d just change every 6 months. Loading up filters to the point they go into bypass is really rare with VRP so you’ll definitely be safe from that standpoint (changing at low mileage). You’ll also be doing a fair amount of short tripping so better to change it on a time basis due to likely fuel dilution.

When I changed mine for the first time, after 220k miles of bulk dino, I got a moderate amount of crud in the filter media. Nothing crazy but it was satisfying.

Yeah- took a few days! Lots of good info on here!

Yup- was planning on doing time-based changes based upon the expected drive cycles- thanks! I still might do an early filter swap to get an idea of what it’s collecting.

 

[altaylar]

Yeah- took a few days! Lots of good info on here!

Yup- was planning on doing time-based changes based upon the expected drive cycles- thanks! I still might do an early filter swap to get an idea of what it’s collecting.

I bought a cheap tool from Amazon to cut open filter housings. Works quite well, might worth having a look if you don't already have one

 

[CarguyP]

I bought a cheap tool from Amazon to cut open filter housings. Works quite well, might worth having a look if you don't already have one

Good idea- I saw a guy use something in one of the YouTube videos. I’ll check it out.

 

[methusaleh]

Going in the mother-in-law’s Ford Edge sludgemonster with 114k miles on the clock. The only vehicle in my life I’ve seen chunks of “stuff” appear as the oil was drained— I was not the one maintaining it for the first 80k or so of its life.

Forgot to add…it’s a 2011 with the 3.5 V6.

I never did update this thread; I received an alert about a reaction to this message.

About two weeks after those photos were taken, that car was totaled when my wife was T-boned by someone running a stop sign. She hobbled away with a sprained ankle and bruised shoulder.

 

[4WD]

I never did update this thread; I received an alert about a reaction to this message.

About two weeks after those photos were taken, that car was totaled when my wife was T-boned by someone running a stop sign. She hobbled away with a sprained ankle and bruised shoulder.

 

[jkasch]

I never did update this thread; I received an alert about a reaction to this message.

About two weeks after those photos were taken, that car was totaled when my wife was T-boned by someone running a stop sign. She hobbled away with a sprained ankle and bruised shoulder.

Glad it wasn’t more serious for your wife.

 

[Wheel366]

Curious at what mileage you changed the intermediate filters?

I’ve read all 138 pages of this thread and I’d like to try VRP in my newly acquired 2012 CRV with 117K on the clock. There were consistent oil changes for ~50K miles, but then other dubious “holes” in its history. Judging from the crust and varnish I see in the oil fill, I’m guessing there were some extended OCI’s. I’m trying to gauge how long to run the VRP before swapping out the initial filters. This car is going to have lots of short trips and will probably only reach 3-5K miles per year. Thanks in advance!

I have a 2014 with 170k+ miles. My changed from 0 - almost 100k were done around 5k (one was missed and we went closer to the lower percentage from the MM. After that, I used Amsoil SS for 2 changes, HPL Premium once and maybe M1 but for a lot of the post 100k it was Kirkland going by the MM. I just recently changed to VRP and will be going by the MM for this. Will use for at least 3 changes but maybe more. I do see some varnish on the shelf through the fill hole but it started going away with the Amsoil and HPL. Looking to see if after using the VRP more will disappear. I have not cut open any filters. No tools for that and no patience either. Have been using Fram Ultra filters mostly and I think I used a few Amsoil filters and I have (forget if it is on the shelf on or the car) a Puro Boss.

 

[tired]

Me too that’s why I asked.

You were the one who raised the question about performance. I did not follow.

 

[tired]

I have a 2014 with 170k+ miles. My changed from 0 - almost 100k were done around 5k (one was missed and we went closer to the lower percentage from the MM. After that, I used Amsoil SS for 2 changes, HPL Premium once and maybe M1 but for a lot of the post 100k it was Kirkland going by the MM. I just recently changed to VRP and will be going by the MM for this. Will use for at least 3 changes but maybe more. I do see some varnish on the shelf through the fill hole but it started going away with the Amsoil and HPL. Looking to see if after using the VRP more will disappear. I have not cut open any filters. No tools for that and no patience either. Have been using Fram Ultra filters mostly and I think I used a few Amsoil filters and I have (forget if it is on the shelf on or the car) a Puro Boss.

It might take 4 OCIs with the VRP, but people have had good results cleaning up varnish here.

 

[ChrisD46]

Based on UOA’s here - VRP does a nice job of wear protection (decent Moly content) along with cleaning . Valvoline says VRP is their best oil but is not considered a long drain oil . If using in 5K mile or less OCI’s you could use VRP as a forever oil no problem .

 

[CarguyP]

I would go for 3k miles given the lack of oil change history for parts of the cars history. After the first change I would say you can safely run 5k or annual intervals.

Thoughts on using the Honda A02 filter for the VRP runs? I’ve read mixed reviews of it and it sounds like it might let more of the removed “crud” through but less of a chance of being overloaded compared to a higher efficiency filter?

 

[ZeeOSix]

Thoughts on using the Honda A02 filter for the VRP runs? I’ve read mixed reviews of it and it sounds like it might let more of the removed “crud” through but less of a chance of being overloaded compared to a higher efficiency filter?

What's the top of the valve train look like through the oil fill hole? If you plan on only doing 3K OCIs with VRP, then using a higher efficiency filter like a Carquest Premium, Premium Guard or MicroGard Select which are rated for 10K miles should be fine. A lower efficiency filter will let more debris through, especially as it loads up compared to a higher efficiency filter.