Valvoline Restore & Protect 0W-20 cannot find VOA and UOA

Shouldn't have mattered though. Top-Tier oils are not required by the manufacturer. My sons Kia Rio had oil changed every 5K, like clockwork. Usually off the shelf synthetics, once in a while it got a semi-synthetic (which was factory fill BTW.)

Engine should have been perfectly fine. at 105K, started using oil due to stuck rings. I don't know for sure that Amsoil or anything else would have made any difference. Valvoline R&P maybe? Really no way to prove it as far as I have seen.

A piston soak corrected the issue. Doesn't burn any oil now, but car doesn't get used much anymore.
I bet these oils didn't pass a double length IIIH test.
 
Has anyone here ever asked why so many BITOGers even need VRP?
I use it because my daughter was gifted a 2012 Camry with about 120k on it. My father in law went by the Toyota service recommend, which was 10k. He had these done at the dealer.

When we got the car here, the oil level was really low and dark. The change sticker still showed about 3k left on the change, but that was 7k prior. It does take oil.

So when VRP came out I decided to give it a try after reviews here started to show positive results. I am on the second oil change, at 4k intervals with VRP.

And while I was at it, decided to try it in my wife's 2012 Pilot for giggles to see what happened, I have always done that one at 4k intervals with 180k on the clock.

So, that's why I am trying VRP out. And no, I haven't noticed reduced oil consumption yet.
 
I bet these oils didn't pass a double length IIIH test.
Probably not, but, again, not required by the manufacturer. If that test was part of standard tier oils, then shame on Hyundai / Kia for not making their oil spec correct. Lots of people with the stuck ring issue, using correct oil per their spec. Engine design and manufacturer blunder for sure.
 
Probably not, but, again, not required by the manufacturer. If that test was part of standard tier oils, then shame on Hyundai / Kia for not making their oil spec correct. Lots of people with the stuck ring issue, using correct oil per their spec. Engine design and manufacturer blunder for sure.
But as a BITOG member and car owner from new, this can be avoided or at least ameliorated, prevented from becoming too nasty.

I can definitely see buying a used car and having to deal with it.
 
Has anyone here ever asked why so many BITOGers even need VRP?

Thanks everyone for the posts and the info!

I'm not sure if I need it. I just want to give it a try by recommendation from a few people on here. A week ago I didn't know this oil existed. I have new M1 oil for my next oil change, so I can return the VRP to Walmart with no issues.

However, it's interesting how many people recommend it, but there are only a couple of oil analysis (only at 2500-3500 OCI) on the forum and not covering all grades and no VOA.

Valvoline considers the VRP series their top tier oil, per a BITOGer on here who talked to them.
 
First, the reason you may find it difficult to find threads is because people (including you) are not consistent in the manner in which they title threads, etc.

Thanks for the note!
I think I tried all those combinations of words in both UOA and VOA and didn't get much info. Then decided to open a thread. I looked already at info that the other guys posted above, before I opened the thread. But sadly, it looks like in term of oil analysis that is all we have currently on the forum - one 5W-30 UOA and a screenshot from youtube video about VOA of 0W-20 and 5W-20.
I'm guessing, if I got the same search results as the people in this thread - that's all the current available analysis of this oil.
 
Has anyone here ever asked why so many BITOGers even need VRP?

Just to name a few:

1. There are still a lot of people that think 5K OCI is fine for mineral and synth blend oils.
2. There are a lot of people that think 10K-20K OCI is fine for full synthetic/hydrockrack oils.
3. There are a lot of people who think that 6K OCI is not a big difference vs 5K OCI.
4. There a lot of hydrocrack oils that claim they are full/100% synthetics.
5. There are a lot of people who never check their oil level and run only by the oil monitoring of the vehicle.
6. There are a lot of people who don't know what "severe driving condition" means.
7. There are a lot of people on the forum who drive pre-owned vehicles driven by any of the people mentioned above.
8. There are a lot of people in here who drive 10+ years old vehicles.
9. There are a lot of people who prefer to use cheaper oil and 5K OCI instead of double the price boutique oils with extended OCI. (shout out to the Brotella fellas, jk)
10. There are many manufacturers that require/recommend low viscosity oils just because they need to fit in certain EPA requirements that compromises oil lubricity and engine longevity in favor of cleaner air in big cities and nature preservation.
 
In similar situation - inherited a 2012 SE from mother in-law - dealer serviced, now approaching 137k miles. I've used all three 3 VRP grades (0W-20, 5W-20, 5W-30) in this car, can't tell a difference (Los angeles climate). Oil consumption is/was near nil, though ... i just VRP for peace of mind. Do check the last time the ATF fluid was serviced, the factory fill was on it's last legs at 120k.
 
Just to name a few:

1. There are still a lot of people that think 5K OCI is fine for mineral and synth blend oils.
2. There are a lot of people that think 10K-20K OCI is fine for full synthetic/hydrockrack oils.
3. There are a lot of people who think that 6K OCI is not a big difference vs 5K OCI.
4. There a lot of hydrocrack oils that claim they are full/100% synthetics.
5. There are a lot of people who never check their oil level and run only by the oil monitoring of the vehicle.
6. There are a lot of people who don't know what "severe driving condition" means.
7. There are a lot of people on the forum who drive pre-owned vehicles driven by any of the people mentioned above.
8. There are a lot of people in here who drive 10+ years old vehicles.
9. There are a lot of people who prefer to use cheaper oil and 5K OCI instead of double the price boutique oils with extended OCI. (shout out to the Brotella fellas, jk)
10. There are many manufacturers that require/recommend low viscosity oils just because they need to fit in certain EPA requirements that compromises oil lubricity and engine longevity in favor of cleaner air in big cities and nature preservation.
That’s a good answer but I’m guessing some of those don’t apply to people here. Well regulars at least
 
Thanks for the note!
I think I tried all those combinations of words in both UOA and VOA and didn't get much info. Then decided to open a thread. I looked already at info that the other guys posted above, before I opened the thread. But sadly, it looks like in term of oil analysis that is all we have currently on the forum - one 5W-30 UOA and a screenshot from youtube video about VOA of 0W-20 and 5W-20.
I'm guessing, if I got the same search results as the people in this thread - that's all the current available analysis of this oil.
There's been a fair amount of UOA's posted on VRP that I'm aware of. Mostly for 5w30 but a nice long one on 0w20. These are from the 1st 3 pages of the UOA section:

 
That’s a good answer but I’m guessing some of those don’t apply to people here. Well regulars at least

We all had to start from somewhere. Many people are/were ignorant/misinformed/uninformed when it comes to their preconceptions of motor oil. They end up here looking for an answer and hopefully down the rabbit hole they go.

Well, those that are willing to learn at least :)
 
I've skimmed those - at first glance I really didn't see the cause of the oil consumption to be ring build up.
Maybe not, but without an engine teardown, I guess it would be hard to know? The Q7 had piston/ring issues I believe. Hyundai has bad design. Not sure about the Fit. I think from his posts, he ran his oil too long with a small sump.
 
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