So how do you know Valvoline Restore and Protect did anything?
While the engine picture looks clean..
Not sure how you can declare its condition is from VRP?
Valvoline Restore and Protect
- Thread starter Scott S
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While the engine picture looks clean..
Not sure how you can declare its condition is from VRP?
An important thing learned from this VRP thread is before I thought of a clean internal engine without considering oil ring / piston ring carbon coking . *You can have an otherwise clean engine free of varnish and sludge - but if you have carbon coked up or stuck oil control rings then the longevity of the engine will be severely compromised unless action is taken to free up rings to do their job as originally intended .
Exactly what happened to me.
Is that because they're full SAPS?
If you just have a regular North American gas vehicle with a catalytic converter, is there any reason to use a low SAPS oil?
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I think people need to read the name... "Restore & Protect" does not mean "Repair & Protect".
It can restore your 100k-200k+ mile engine that has regular usage (not been abused) and regular buildup from use. It's not meant to fix your leaking engine, you might get lucky but it's not the aim of the product. It's for enthusiasts exactly like us I would say, who want to keep their car running at peak performance.
It can restore your 100k-200k+ mile engine that has regular usage (not been abused) and regular buildup from use. It's not meant to fix your leaking engine, you might get lucky but it's not the aim of the product. It's for enthusiasts exactly like us I would say, who want to keep their car running at peak performance.
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I saw somebody mention it earlier in this thread but didn't see anybody with a definitive answer... how does using MoS2 with this effect the "restoring" aspect of the R&P ??? Should it effect it at all?
INDEED. Not only can you have a surgically overhead with stuck piston rings, but you can also have pistons that are relatively OK with a completely nasty looking overhead. While I've posted some dramatic cleaning pics of the overhead of my Odyssey, I can't say that I've seen much change in consumption whatsoever-- this van never really used any noticeable amount even at 200k.
That said, it sure does seem to run smoother and better now and I'm seeing better mileage by 1-2mpg pretty consistently. So it's almost certain the pistons are cleaner.
But the valuable point here is that piston cleanliness and overhead cleanliness can have zero relationship to each other, or even run in opposite directions. Recall that K20c4 teardown with stuck oil control rings and literally every other part of the engine was surgically clean, top to bottom.
Prior to HPL and VRP that is what I thought LOL. I can't believe I was that dumb for all those years.
Continued use might clear the screen again.
You just described why I bought Total Quartz 9000 Energy 0W-30 back in 2013. And why I now also use Ravenol 10W-30 full synthetic.
Moderate amounts of detergents (8.8 tbn for total, 7.9 for ravenol), with a fairly high ratio of zddp to calcium (1:2.5 for total, 1:2 for ravenol) were other reasons to pick those specifically. The total also was MB 229.5 approved.
Like most all of us , early in 2010 I was always shopping the synthetic deal of the day , hoarding , etc. (mostly vanilla group III synthetic oils) like QSUD , some Castrol Magnatec and the like before mainly running M1 5W30 EP / M10W30 ESP and always with a 4,000 mile max OCI in Kia / Hyundai engines . The OCI interval probably helped no matter the oil - now running VRP 5W30 in same vehicles for at least a few more OCI’s to clean the rings , optimize VVT passageways , etc. before a possible return to M1 0W30 ESP .
Exactly what happened to me too, and jammed rings happened early on my Hyundai. Go figure, “ It’s a Hyundai”.
Valvoline has always stated:
"... for four or more consecutive oil changes at standard maintenance intervals..."
I've never heard of any change to this recommendation by Valvoline.
They used to say “4,” and now it’s “4 or more.”
This is the first I have heard this but I recall many who misunderstood the recommendation as 'up to four'. In the last two years or so I've only ever read the directions as 'minimum four, OEM OCI'.
I believe in the case of Hyundai / Kia you may have to pursue five to six 4K mile OCI’s before you have ultimate oil ring cleaning .The VRP has played well with my Hyundai / Kia vehicle engines using a 3.5K to 4K mile average OCI.
All of their marketing materials have all been updated, but if you look around online you can find references to the claim, like below.
https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?p=31534031
Of course, maybe I (and the others) am just misremembering. But I feel like we talked about this change in this monster thread at some point before.
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A formulation change?
Or maybe a way to keep selling to those folks who haven't seen their desired results after 4 changes?
I like the idea of being slow and steady so as to not overwhelm filters, but after 4 changes and not seeing the desired results, I'm moving on.
I mean it's still an API SP oil, and it's priced the same as other OTS synthetics that don't have magic cleaning capabilities, so I'd say you're not really losing much.
Don't be the guy on the bottom.
People here have seen results after 4 changes.
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I like the pic!
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