Value Craft Coolant-Autozone
- Thread starter ted s
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Yep, stalwart users of high-silicate green-snot-of-death rejoice! (Not all "Autozone" branded products are bottom-feeder sourced - but not for lack of trying.) High silicate antifreeze is dead - long live extended life/universal G-05!
Valucraft is a very good traditional green coolant. It is loaded with aluminum friendly phosphates and silicates. I would not hesitate to use it. But remember to change it out every 18 to 24 months.
I've researched the subject quite a bit, studied ASTM test results, MSDS sheets, and patents for traditional antifreeze. The very best of the traditionals is probably Peak (regular formula, not to be confused with Peak long life). Peak holds some fine patents on the formulation of traditional antifreeze, with ASTM test results to support their claims. And Peak takes its traditional line seriously and unapologetically. They know it's good stuff.
Autozone "Valucraft", Pep Boy's "ProLine", and Tractor Supply Company's "Traveller" are also very good. I suspect that the TSC Traveller might even be made by Peak. All of these contain silicates and phosphates which are good news for aluminum.
A step down from the above mentioned is Texaco which loses marks for failure to contain phosphates. It's close to traditional formulation but not quite.
A good traditional green coolant when properly maintained is equal to the newer formulations in corrosion protection, perhaps better in some cases.
When it comes to the newer coolants, one the best rivals for the above brands is probably Zerex G-05. It is an excellent coolant with ASTM test results which are highly competitive with the best traditional formulations. Valvoline/Zerex 578-3 is another very good formulation, but almost impossible to find in retail outlets. Unfortunately, in the real world, choice of antifreeze is not so easy.
Where I live, Prestone has the market almost to themselves. The word monopoly comes to mind. Any other brand is very hard to find. In my neck of the woods, the only place you can find Zerex G-05 is at Pep Boys. Peak traditional can be found at Rite-Aid drug stores.
I've researched the subject quite a bit, studied ASTM test results, MSDS sheets, and patents for traditional antifreeze. The very best of the traditionals is probably Peak (regular formula, not to be confused with Peak long life). Peak holds some fine patents on the formulation of traditional antifreeze, with ASTM test results to support their claims. And Peak takes its traditional line seriously and unapologetically. They know it's good stuff.
Autozone "Valucraft", Pep Boy's "ProLine", and Tractor Supply Company's "Traveller" are also very good. I suspect that the TSC Traveller might even be made by Peak. All of these contain silicates and phosphates which are good news for aluminum.
A step down from the above mentioned is Texaco which loses marks for failure to contain phosphates. It's close to traditional formulation but not quite.
A good traditional green coolant when properly maintained is equal to the newer formulations in corrosion protection, perhaps better in some cases.
When it comes to the newer coolants, one the best rivals for the above brands is probably Zerex G-05. It is an excellent coolant with ASTM test results which are highly competitive with the best traditional formulations. Valvoline/Zerex 578-3 is another very good formulation, but almost impossible to find in retail outlets. Unfortunately, in the real world, choice of antifreeze is not so easy.
Where I live, Prestone has the market almost to themselves. The word monopoly comes to mind. Any other brand is very hard to find. In my neck of the woods, the only place you can find Zerex G-05 is at Pep Boys. Peak traditional can be found at Rite-Aid drug stores.
The high doses of silicates in traditional green-snot-of-death are not stable over time. Even in the sealed jug, the silicates will dissociate within three years or sooner. In use, the high silicate concentrations will form a gell glop in the bottom tank of the radiator. Later, hard silica precipitates form that are bad news for waterpump seals. The reduced silicate content in G-05 has shown remarkably better stability at remaining in solution - even over extended drain intervals.
vizvo - are you saying silicates are good for aluminum? or just phosphates? I always thought silicates were BAD for Al.
Ray/Vizo -- what's your take on mixing newer Japanese coolants with traditional silicated green? (like my Nissan dealer says they do). I bought my '99 maxima right after the previous owner had the 60k service done - and the dealer said they did a drain/fill with "regular green" coolant, although they couldn't tell me which brand. hence I decided 10k miles later to flush all the coolant out as best I could, and then fill with Nissan OEM. but after I used all 3 of my distilled water gallons in the flush, the fluid was still slightly green - I decided to just drain the radiator and fill with full strength Nissan.
do you think any remnants of the previous silicated green snot will cause me problems???
thanks!
Ray/Vizo -- what's your take on mixing newer Japanese coolants with traditional silicated green? (like my Nissan dealer says they do). I bought my '99 maxima right after the previous owner had the 60k service done - and the dealer said they did a drain/fill with "regular green" coolant, although they couldn't tell me which brand. hence I decided 10k miles later to flush all the coolant out as best I could, and then fill with Nissan OEM. but after I used all 3 of my distilled water gallons in the flush, the fluid was still slightly green - I decided to just drain the radiator and fill with full strength Nissan.
do you think any remnants of the previous silicated green snot will cause me problems???
thanks!
I used to use standard Prestone in my 94 Saturn because I never could find any brand around me that advertised phosphate free. I haven't had any problems and I don't think the phosphates are an issue when using distilled water.
Now, of course, Prestone has gone to the "all makes, all models". I don't consider anything "universal" likely to be great for anything, so this time I used Peak. This standard forumlation was only available at one store near me (I don't have an AZ convenient).
I suspect that two years down the road it will be impossible to find any traditional coolant any more. I don't suppose a G-05 formulation will cause any issues, but I got scared off of Dex-Cool in 1996 when a rep at Texaco said that it would work fine in my '94 but it might turn my hoses funny colors. (ohh-kayy, sounds odd but what do I know... it's not that big a deal to change the coolant every couple of years- if it's working why change.)
Now, of course, Prestone has gone to the "all makes, all models". I don't consider anything "universal" likely to be great for anything, so this time I used Peak. This standard forumlation was only available at one store near me (I don't have an AZ convenient).
I suspect that two years down the road it will be impossible to find any traditional coolant any more. I don't suppose a G-05 formulation will cause any issues, but I got scared off of Dex-Cool in 1996 when a rep at Texaco said that it would work fine in my '94 but it might turn my hoses funny colors. (ohh-kayy, sounds odd but what do I know... it's not that big a deal to change the coolant every couple of years- if it's working why change.)
Hi Sky Jumper. During its useful service life, silicates exist in the coolant at the molecular level. Some folks erroneously believe that minute particles of glass or sand are circulating in there coolant. This is not the case. Phosphates and silicates work together and are highly protective of aluminum at the molecular level. It is only in old used up coolant where the silicates sometimes disassociate or polymerize.
Japanese coolant contains phosphates but no silicates. In this article, Motor discusses the dilemma repair shops face with their need to carry many different coolants to top up client vehicles. Motor finds that a proper after-market substitute for Japanese coolant doesn't really exist.
Motor says this with respect to alternatives for OEM Japanese coolant:
Considering that you drained, flushed, and beefed up your system, I wouldn't sweat it. Only a very small percentage of regular coolant remained. Corrosion protection shouldn't be adversely affected. For all practical purposes you're running straight Nissan coolant.
Japanese coolant contains phosphates but no silicates. In this article, Motor discusses the dilemma repair shops face with their need to carry many different coolants to top up client vehicles. Motor finds that a proper after-market substitute for Japanese coolant doesn't really exist.
Motor says this with respect to alternatives for OEM Japanese coolant:
It looks like those service techs who worked on your vehicle read Motor . . .
Considering that you drained, flushed, and beefed up your system, I wouldn't sweat it. Only a very small percentage of regular coolant remained. Corrosion protection shouldn't be adversely affected. For all practical purposes you're running straight Nissan coolant.
vizvo - thanks for the great information.
Valucraft is silicate AND phosphate based.
There is no third-party aftermarket coolant which is only phosphate based. Why not check with your Suzuki dealer for what they use?
According to this guy:
There is no third-party aftermarket coolant which is only phosphate based. Why not check with your Suzuki dealer for what they use?
According to this guy:
Hes Canadian...Suzuki America doesnt carry that line of chemicals...and besides, my dealer is a tool...er, I mean they are a Jeep dealer. "Uh...weve got Mopar! Coolants coolant, right?"
Also, after re-reading the(ValueCraft) label, I notice Phosphate at the top of ingredients, and silicates at the end...does this make any difference?
BTW are you a member of that forum?
Also, after re-reading the(ValueCraft) label, I notice Phosphate at the top of ingredients, and silicates at the end...does this make any difference?
BTW are you a member of that forum?
I own a Suzuki Aerio, we got this TSB about coolant, and after reading this topic Im even more confused, as Valuecraft was the only coolant I could find that fit the TSB.
Are you certain Valuecraft is a silicate type coolant? If so any recommendations for just Ethylene Glycol Phosphate
Based coolant???
Any suggestions or comments would be apreciated.
Are you certain Valuecraft is a silicate type coolant? If so any recommendations for just Ethylene Glycol Phosphate
Based coolant???
You need the typical Japanese coolant. Honda, Toyota, and Nissan all call for coolant that matches what you posted.
Well if its that common, why is it so hard to find? Any brands that you can name to help me in my search?
Only Japanese dealerships carry non-silicate, phosphated OAT antifreeze. Dunno why aftermarket American antifreeze makers haven't jumped on that bandwagon yet. I s'pose it's 'cuzz the Japanese produce and sell so few cars over here...
(GM & Ford wish!) Unless you buy the Japanese antifreeze, that leaves DEX-COOL (and its various unlicensed clones such as the current yellow-jug Prestone) ethylene glycols with OAT and no silicates or phophates, or G-05 with OAT and reduced silicates and no phosphates. If you're brave, you can pour conventional green-snot-of-death into your all aluminum ricer and hope bi-yearly drains and refills will do the trick long term. By the way, silicates are not "bad" for aluminum, per se. They're just not stable in solution long term in high concentrations.
Sooooo you're stuck buying this stuff from the stealership huh...
Bummer
Hey Ray, and or someone else,
How about making a "sticky" post at the top of the coolant section that lists in an easy to read format the types of coolants available,brands, their chemistry, and their suggested application (car manufacturer recommendation)???
Maybe cover diesel applications also.
Thanks
Also, why are you so hard on the old "green snot of death"? I have used it without any problems for the past 30 years. As long as I changed it every 2 years and used good water, it performed fine. Don't you agree that most problems are from neglected maintenance?
How about making a "sticky" post at the top of the coolant section that lists in an easy to read format the types of coolants available,brands, their chemistry, and their suggested application (car manufacturer recommendation)???
Maybe cover diesel applications also.
Thanks
Also, why are you so hard on the old "green snot of death"? I have used it without any problems for the past 30 years. As long as I changed it every 2 years and used good water, it performed fine. Don't you agree that most problems are from neglected maintenance?
Appearantly Nissan coolant is silicate free, but the Honda is in question as its blue(not import green) and doesnt mention phosphates or silicates. And Toyota seems to use (pink)organic acid. Another place told me Mopar coolant could work too, but I wasnt certain he was right about that or not, I gotta look further to confirm.
Well after more research Ive found that the ValueCraft is exactly what my car requires...also the Mopar coolant is acceptable(same thing).
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