There are a bunch of pawn shops in the area that have lots of used chainsaws. I was looking at some stihl's and was wondering if anyone would buy a used saw and what to look for. some of them looked like they were in good shape and were about half/or less than half the price of a new stihl--still expensive though.. I have heard that stihl's are very good and very serviceable---my dad has had one for at least 20 yrs. any thoughts would be appreciated
used chainsaws?
- Thread starter joel95ex
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I bought a used one earlier this year when my (loaned) Stihl 028AV SWB disappeared from my brother's garage-it was an 032AV that is roughly 25 years old-but it had excellent compression, and had been maintained fairly well. IMHO a used Stihl is better than 85% of the new saws out there, and the older ones (pre-2000) were the toughest of all.
There are stihl saws and then there are pro stihl saws. Make sure you know which you are looking at. A newer plastic crankcase one is ok but you don't want to pay for a pro saw when you buy it.
You can check compression by lifting the say by its starter handle, it shouldn't drop quickly if at all. If the paint is worn /scorched off the bar only near the chain, the oiler isn't working well. You can pull the plug to see if its been running lean or rich. On some saws its two bolts to pull the muffler to see how the piston and rings are doing. Pull the air filter to see if its letting dust through into the carb.
The chain shouldn't move too much from side to side in the bar, if so its a worn bar or a not matching bar and chain width.
I'd go to the local stihl dealer and see what they have for used saws and prices as well. There you will be able to start the saw and they shouldn't try to rip you off with a bad saw.
You can check compression by lifting the say by its starter handle, it shouldn't drop quickly if at all. If the paint is worn /scorched off the bar only near the chain, the oiler isn't working well. You can pull the plug to see if its been running lean or rich. On some saws its two bolts to pull the muffler to see how the piston and rings are doing. Pull the air filter to see if its letting dust through into the carb.
The chain shouldn't move too much from side to side in the bar, if so its a worn bar or a not matching bar and chain width.
I'd go to the local stihl dealer and see what they have for used saws and prices as well. There you will be able to start the saw and they shouldn't try to rip you off with a bad saw.
Make sure you get one with the safety features functional. I have an old Stihl from before the days of chain brakes, anti-kickback, etc. and I don't even like using it any more.
FWIW the professional level Stihl saws have white handles and the homeowner level saws have orange handles.
Stihl, Jonsered, Shindaiwa and the larger Husqvarna saws are all top notch. The lower end Huskys are made by Poulan. So, you'll be paying Husqvarna prices for a Poulan saw. Not sure if that applies to Jonsered but it probably does considering that both brands are made by the same manufacturer just branded differently.
Originally Posted By: cchase
FWIW the professional level Stihl saws have white handles and the homeowner level saws have orange handles.
Interesting. I never noticed that.
Just went to their website and this is how they list them:
Occasional (home use)
Semi-Pro (use several times a week)
Professional Applications (use every day)
The occasional home use ones have the orange handles, the rest all have white handles. Very interesting indeed.
FWIW the professional level Stihl saws have white handles and the homeowner level saws have orange handles.
Interesting. I never noticed that.
Just went to their website and this is how they list them:
Occasional (home use)
Semi-Pro (use several times a week)
Professional Applications (use every day)
The occasional home use ones have the orange handles, the rest all have white handles. Very interesting indeed.
My buddy has a 1 year old MS290 (orange handle)and was over cutting with me last weekend. It was putting oil everywhere but in the bar groove and was jetted way to lean, to the point where it would bog in a cut over 12"... We couldn't adjust the carb and my saw was cutting the bigger stuff atleast twice as fast, so I did all the cutting and he did the loading. I think his saw is out of warranty too so we'll see what the damage is at the dealer.
Anyways, long story short, get a white handle stihl.
Anyways, long story short, get a white handle stihl.
I have owned an MS290 for over 2 years, haven't done a thing but at oil and gas. They are a medium duty saw and plenty stout for most farm and heavy home use. I cut large hardwood all the time and it slices through like butter.
They compare to the older 029 model and are one of the most popular Stihl chainsaws.
As others have said, check compression, and see if they will let you run it. I wouldnt but a used saw without carefully looking it over and running it.
They compare to the older 029 model and are one of the most popular Stihl chainsaws.
As others have said, check compression, and see if they will let you run it. I wouldnt but a used saw without carefully looking it over and running it.
I have a 5 yo MS250 with a 18" bar that has always ran great. It'll cut eucalyptus and pine that is thicker than the bar length all day. I just tuned up a 20 yo 026AV that had been beaten and abused and it also runs great. The owner proceeded to cut down 16" redwoods after the tune-up.
If the saw appeared mechanically sound, was a Stihl, Husqvarna, or Echo, and the price was right, I'd buy it.
If the saw appeared mechanically sound, was a Stihl, Husqvarna, or Echo, and the price was right, I'd buy it.
Stihl's run for ever,although pawn shops are crooks.
I would rather buy locally out of the paper or craigslist.
I would rather buy locally out of the paper or craigslist.
Take along a compression gauge, anything above 125lb is ok, above 150lb is a keeper.
Ask if you can remove the muffler to inspect the piston.
If any scoring, pass, it's been lean seized.
Pro Stihl's, Husky XP's, Dolmar/Makita, Jonsered, Solo and Shindaiwa are all good saws and parts are available online for everything except Stihl.
Ask if you can remove the muffler to inspect the piston.
If any scoring, pass, it's been lean seized.
Pro Stihl's, Husky XP's, Dolmar/Makita, Jonsered, Solo and Shindaiwa are all good saws and parts are available online for everything except Stihl.
I bought a mid 80's 024AV Super a couple weeks ago for $40.00. The previous owner said it had been running fine but just quit. He had already bought a new saw and was getting rid of the 024. I put a couple hours of work into cleaning/adjusting and had it running as good as new. The chain was shot but for less than $20.00 a new one was put on. I didn't need it and gave it to a friend who had recently had his own old Stihl mysteriously disappear.
Any Jonsereds, Husqvarna or Still from say 1995 and earlier will be a rugged saw. Even if compression is down a bit, that's usually nothing that new piston ring(s) won't fix.
I'd avoid pawn shops. Watch Ebay, Craig's List and Kijiji. Check the local ads every day. Good deals go quickly.
Any Jonsereds, Husqvarna or Still from say 1995 and earlier will be a rugged saw. Even if compression is down a bit, that's usually nothing that new piston ring(s) won't fix.
I'd avoid pawn shops. Watch Ebay, Craig's List and Kijiji. Check the local ads every day. Good deals go quickly.
Originally Posted By: tdi-rick
Take along a compression gauge, anything above 125lb is ok, above 150lb is a keeper.
Ask if you can remove the muffler to inspect the piston.
If any scoring, pass, it's been lean seized.
Pro Stihl's, Husky XP's, Dolmar/Makita, Jonsered, Solo and Shindaiwa are all good saws and parts are available online for everything except Stihl.
You are confusing your Forum's Rick. AS is where you drill out the ports on on your saw to increase airflow. BITOG is where we try to fix things with chemical add packs to our fuel and oil. We do not use compressions tests here, we would increase the viscosity of our lubricant to increase compression
Take along a compression gauge, anything above 125lb is ok, above 150lb is a keeper.
Ask if you can remove the muffler to inspect the piston.
If any scoring, pass, it's been lean seized.
Pro Stihl's, Husky XP's, Dolmar/Makita, Jonsered, Solo and Shindaiwa are all good saws and parts are available online for everything except Stihl.
You are confusing your Forum's Rick. AS is where you drill out the ports on on your saw to increase airflow. BITOG is where we try to fix things with chemical add packs to our fuel and oil. We do not use compressions tests here, we would increase the viscosity of our lubricant to increase compression
Quote:
You are confusing your Forum's Rick. AS is where you drill out the ports on on your saw to increase airflow. BITOG is where we try to fix things with chemical add packs to our fuel and oil. We do not use compressions tests here, we would increase the viscosity of our lubricant to increase compression
You are confusing your Forum's Rick. AS is where you drill out the ports on on your saw to increase airflow. BITOG is where we try to fix things with chemical add packs to our fuel and oil. We do not use compressions tests here, we would increase the viscosity of our lubricant to increase compression
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