Trumpet Oil for Pistol

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Originally Posted By: billt460

Sounds good. Does every "Gun Oil" have these necessary attributes? Or are you simply saying they SHOULD have them? And how does the consumer know for certain if they do? Because just looking for the term...... "Gun Oil" on the label doesn't give me all that much confidence.

Funny you should mention that.Most of the trumpet oils leave deposits, and really don't work well on trumpet valves. Folks that are professionals and can and need to feel and see the difference will tell you that Ultrapure surpasses any known "Trumpet Lub"..you can't make this stuff up. Imagine that..a valve oil that does not work very well on valves.

Not surprising that some "Gun Oils" may not work that well on firearms.
 
Originally Posted By: billt460
Originally Posted By: bsmithwins
Corrosion protection - Guns are open to the elements and get wet. Engine oils aren't very good at preventing rust.
EP additives - Not a lot of firearms have oil pumps lubricating plain bearings, so you need more EP additives. Engine oils are designed around the the oil being pumped to bearings and getting to a steady temp. Creepiness - To get into spaces between parts to lubricate them and protect them from corrosion. People tend to complain when engine oils ooze out of every seal in the motor.


Sounds good. Does every "Gun Oil" have these necessary attributes? Or are you simply saying they SHOULD have them? And how does the consumer know for certain if they do? Because just looking for the term...... "Gun Oil" on the label doesn't give me all that much confidence.


Personally, I look for oils that meet mil spec for gun oils. For example:
ROYCO 308CA meets the spec for MIL-PRF-32033 and is a NATO O-190 oil. Link to .pdf: http://oilmart.com/data/products/pds/613/PDS Royco 308CA.pdf
ROYCO 634 meets all requirements of MIL-SPEC: MIL-PRF- 63460D Link to .pdf with tech data: https://www.mil-specproducts.com/Documents/384_%5BPDS%5D%20Royco%20634.pdf

I can't afford to check each gun oil I buy to make sure it's going to protect my guns from rusting and has a decent EP package. If it passes the relevant tests for military qualification the oil is going to meet basic minimum standards.

Plus, since these are bulk commercial products, they are way cheaper by the gallon than the typical gun snake oils.

BSW
 
Originally Posted By: billt460
Originally Posted By: gman2304
1 oz of Rem oil or Hoppes at Walmart is just a few bucks, is designed and formulated for firearms, and is good for dozens of cleanings. Lets don't over think this.


I would just like to know what's in it that makes it.... "A gun oil formulated for firearms"? This question keeps coming up, but never is provided with an adequate answer.


Remington arms was founded in 1816. It's the oldest American company still building it's original product....Guns! I'm just guessing, but after making guns for 201 years, they just might know a little bit about making an 'adequate' oil for their fire arms! I don't know what's in it...but I tend to trust a company whose been in business for over 200 years.
https://www.remington.com/support/safety-center/safety-data-sheets-sds
 
Originally Posted By: gman2304
I don't know what's in it... I tend to trust a company....


Neither do I. Back to my original question. And "Trust" has got nothing to do with any of it.
 
Rem-Oil is garbage. It has no viscosity, and runs everywhere you don't want it to, like water. And the stuff evaporates in no time. Is it better than getting a sharp stick in the eye, in a cold, wet duck blind? Perhaps, but not much else.
 
billt460 said:
Rem-Oil is garbage. It has no viscosity, and runs everywhere you don't want it to, like water. And the stuff evaporates in no time.


You're beginning to get it. It's low vis for a reason, and the carrier evaporates in no time.
 
Originally Posted By: gman2304
billt460 said:
Rem-Oil is garbage. It has no viscosity, and runs everywhere you don't want it to, like water. And the stuff evaporates in no time.


You're beginning to get it. It's low vis for a reason, and the carrier evaporates in no time.



No, you don't get it. The "carrier" doesn't evaporate, the oil itself does. You might as well lube your guns with Kerosene. I gave up on that junk years ago. And gave away the bottle I had. It doesn't stay where you put it. But goes everywhere you don't. And dries up faster than spit on a 100 degree sidewalk. Another over hyped, over priced, garbage, "gun oil". That is anything but.
 
Hows about a home brew 'gun oil'?

2 parts Dexron II transmission fluid..
1 part Mobil1 10w30
1 part STP oil treatment

This probably won't work for me as the Mobil1 in the garage is 0w20...
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted By: billt460
Originally Posted By: gman2304
billt460 said:
Rem-Oil is garbage. It has no viscosity, and runs everywhere you don't want it to, like water. And the stuff evaporates in no time.


You're beginning to get it. It's low vis for a reason, and the carrier evaporates in no time.



No, you don't get it. The "carrier" doesn't evaporate, the oil itself does. You might as well lube your guns with Kerosene. I gave up on that junk years ago. And gave away the bottle I had. It doesn't stay where you put it. But goes everywhere you don't. And dries up faster than spit on a 100 degree sidewalk. Another over hyped, over priced, garbage, "gun oil". That is anything but.


I have to agree with Bill. Remoil is useless.

Used it to lube my DPMS LR-308. Put the rifle in the safe, and had a couple FTF next time is shot it. A couple of drops of just CLP on the BCG got it running normally.

Only problem I've ever had with that rifle was when I used Remoil.

Found out that DPMS specifically cautions against the use of Remoil in their guns. I've been using the AMSOIL gun oil on it recently (thanks Pablo) with the same circumstances: clean it, lube it, put it away, take it out and shoot it.

Zero problems with a different lube. I've tried Safariland LP, TW-25 grease, AMSOIL, and it runs fine with all of those.

It's the Remoil that's the problem.
 
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Originally Posted By: Astro14
Found out that DPMS specifically cautions against the use of Remoil in their guns.


Interesting. I knew the stuff was garbage, but I didn't know any manufacturers specifically singled it out as a, "do not use" product. And the kicker is DPMS is owned by...... Wait for it..... REMINGTON, (AKA Freedom Group). So you basically have a conglomerate who doesn't want their own lubrication product used on the very firearms they make. Not much of a glowing endorsement to say the least.
 
I know! Ironic, right?

I'll try and find caution in print, so I can share it...

Well, no luck on the DPMS - but here is the Dan Wesson owner's manual for their .45s...and they sure imply that there are two kinds of gun oil: high-quality and Remoil, CLP and Hoppe's Elite...interesting...

Maybe I'm remembering the DPMS guidance wrong, but I'll say this: that rifle sure didn't like Remoil, and it likes everything else. So, rather than risk using the Remoil again, I threw it out.

 
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Don't recommend Hoppes Elite Gun oil (or Remmington)..lol..although that bespeaks the inherent higher failure rate for the 1911 types. And the DW is tighter than normal.

1911 was certainly an engineering marvel in its day..but that day has come and gone. Glad I shot them in the past.
 
Originally Posted By: billt460
Originally Posted By: Linctex
Originally Posted By: Superflop
Great gun oil can be bought for $40 a gallon...


Mobil 1 doesn't cost that much, unless you are getting the new "Annual Protection" baloney


That's what I was going to say. And unless you're a competition shooter, a quart of Mobil 1 will all but last a lifetime, if all you use it on is weapons.


I'm a competitive shooter and Mobil 1 is all I use for gun oil, bought a quart of 10w-30 back in 2008 and it's still 2/3 full .. LOL
 
Originally Posted By: bsmithwins

Corrosion protection - Guns are open to the elements and get wet. Engine oils aren't very good at preventing rust.
EP additives - Not a lot of firearms have oil pumps lubricating plain bearings, so you need more EP additives. Engine oils are designed around the the oil being pumped to bearings and getting to a steady temp.
Creepiness - To get into spaces between parts to lubricate them and protect them from corrosion. People tend to complain when engine oils ooze out of every seal in the motor.

As a side note, since there aren't any guns that have a catalytic converter, the additive package to achieve the above doesn't need to be compatible with catalytic elements, giving the lubrication engineer a bigger toolbox to pull from.

BSW


Basically what are you screaming for is basic mineral chainsaw bar oil.....or a semi-fluid nlgi 00/000 EP grease...

Both fulfills all your references above

laugh.gif
 
Originally Posted By: bsmithwins


Personally, I look for oils that meet mil spec for gun oils. For example:
ROYCO 308CA meets the spec for MIL-PRF-32033 and is a NATO O-190 oil. Link to .pdf: http://oilmart.com/data/products/pds/613/PDS Royco 308CA.pdf
ROYCO 634 meets all requirements of MIL-SPEC: MIL-PRF- 63460D Link to .pdf with tech data: https://www.mil-specproducts.com/Documents/384_%5BPDS%5D%20Royco%20634.pdf

I can't afford to check each gun oil I buy to make sure it's going to protect my guns from rusting and has a decent EP package. If it passes the relevant tests for military qualification the oil is going to meet basic minimum standards.

Plus, since these are bulk commercial products, they are way cheaper by the gallon than the typical gun snake oils.

BSW


Usually all MIL standards are easily surpassed with any industrial standard...

Military wants everything as cheap as possible...
 
Originally Posted By: Kamele0N
Basically what are you screaming for is basic mineral chainsaw bar oil.....or a semi-fluid nlgi 00/000 EP grease... Both fulfills all your references above.


Good point. Simply put, guns are not that difficult to keep properly lubricated, and free from rust. You don't need a bunch of $18.00 an ounce, Teflon infused, gold foil wrapped bottles of the latest, "Gun Lube Of The Week", hawked by some ex "operator", in order to keep them running dependably and free from rust. Proof of that is look at all of the shooters, both informal, as well as competition shooters, who use nothing but Mobil 1 on their guns. And there are plenty of them.

You don't see rust on their weapons, or see them seizing up in competition. And they all shoot thousands of rounds a year in rain, high humidity, blazing heat, and in most weather conditions where informal shooters wouldn't even go to the range in. And remember, most all of these top level shooters could get any of these high priced lubricants free for the asking. They're just not wanted or needed.

We see what complete garbage Rem-Oil is. A supposed "gun oil" that is marketed by the very company who makes both it, and the firearms they don't want you to use it on. It's all but laughable. Yet people will line up to buy this stuff. All thinking the next one is going to do something better and more remarkable than the last one did. And the only area where that might hold true, is it will cost you more.
 
Originally Posted By: Kamele0N
Originally Posted By: bsmithwins

Corrosion protection - Guns are open to the elements and get wet. Engine oils aren't very good at preventing rust.
EP additives - Not a lot of firearms have oil pumps lubricating plain bearings, so you need more EP additives. Engine oils are designed around the the oil being pumped to bearings and getting to a steady temp.
Creepiness - To get into spaces between parts to lubricate them and protect them from corrosion. People tend to complain when engine oils ooze out of every seal in the motor.

As a side note, since there aren't any guns that have a catalytic converter, the additive package to achieve the above doesn't need to be compatible with catalytic elements, giving the lubrication engineer a bigger toolbox to pull from.

BSW


Basically what are you screaming for is basic mineral chainsaw bar oil.....or a semi-fluid nlgi 00/000 EP grease...

Both fulfills all your references above

laugh.gif



What I've been using recently is LSA (aka Royco 46), a semi-fluid 00 grease. It's creepy, keeps steel from rusting, and has decent falex wear test results.

And it costs about $10 a quart.

BSW
 
Originally Posted By: bsmithwins
What I've been using recently is LSA (aka Royco 46), a semi-fluid 00 grease. It's creepy, keeps steel from rusting, and has decent falex wear test results. And it costs about $10 a quart. BSW


Sounds like good stuff. Do you have a link on where to buy it?
 
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