Toyota Pink + RMI-25 10 years

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Right is 10 years on toyota super long life coolant plus RMI-25, as you see the rmi25 turns it orange (yellow plus red or pink = orange). The middle was second flush, I was pretty happy with how it looked, and I have no doubt a third flush isn't necessary, mind you what is in there now was fresh put back when the coolant looked like the middle jug. So even better then what is in the reddish jug. I always put RMI-25 in towards the end of my coolant interval, I've had great luck with it in the past take out slime in radiator and put's it into the overflow where it gets stuck. Many other benefits as well like guards against electrolysis. Probably didn't need it this run, this vehicle was bought new in 2008, but as vehicles get older I think rmi25f is worth it. [Linked Image]
 
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This isn't aimed at the OP, just a comment in general. If these long life coolants are rated for 10 year and X-mileage why don't folks do a spill/fill of the radiator in 1/2 that time to always keep clean coolant in the system and eliminate the need for flushing or worrying about things like freeze point, boiling point or electrolysis? Plus the added benefit of alway keeping the additives in the coolants that prevent scale at high levels. It would seem to me it would be greater expense in both time and fluid to have to do 3 flush/fills instead of just changing out approximately 1/2 the coolant at 1/2 it's life expectancy so that the system is always full of fresh coolant. I have always done this and never experienced the need for flushing, or problems like heater core issues etc. Just a thought, not questioning what everyone does and certainly no aimed at the OP.
 
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No worries at all, I don't mind having my strategies questioned. If you stay on top of it as you say that would be perfect. However, I have a ton of things in my life that get in the way of me doing maintenance of my vehicles. An example is for the last two months I have chain sawed at least 1/2 of my days and I'm not even at the half way point of what it takes yearly to keep the branches down on my property. So when I get to the end life of a coolant, I opt for rmi-25 based on the experience I had with it removing sludge. I like your idea, but still prefer doing a double flush. It isn't that much work and coolant isn't that expensive, but boy if something goes wrong with the cooling system it will be. My hopes that I can find the time to do a double flush 4 years from now.
 
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If you can find the engine block bolts top and bottom, then why not just do the full flush. Also, my second flush was hot just to see how it was, no problem at all since I can do everything from the top of the engine. Flush with t stat still open, get more out.
 
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If running the full 10 years I would either do a flush or a series of spill/fills. But what I was getting at is if you have the time then run the coolant to 1/2 it's life span and drain 1/2 the coolant, it's easy, no fuss, no mess and has always worked well in my experiences to not require flushes ever because the fluid is always clean in the system and protecting well. The main thing is you are doing it before it's really ugly, or doing it at all! grin2
 
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I guess most people wouldn't choose to do a flush on a new car 1/2 way through the manual's interval, but then again maybe we should. Not a bad idea.
 
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Originally Posted by Snagglefoot
On the topic of Toyota coolants here are a couple of knockoff's both in the 50/50 and concentrated types.
I can't speak for Toyota, but even the Infiniti dealer beats the Canadian Tire price. wink
 
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Originally Posted by StevieC
Not a flush, just a drain the radiator and refill with new pre-mix.
That's what I did with my '06 Matrix. A 15 minute job every 5 years. Zerex Asian the second time. The 5 year old coolant coming out looked as clean as the new.
 
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Originally Posted by Garak
Originally Posted by Snagglefoot
On the topic of Toyota coolants here are a couple of knockoff's both in the 50/50 and concentrated types.
I can't speak for Toyota, but even the Infiniti dealer beats the Canadian Tire price. wink
Some Toyota dealers can be generous. I get the bro hookup at the local dealership. I'd trust the Zerex stuff. Dunno if the Recochem/OEM stuff is a legit pHOAT or simply Dex-Cool dyed pink or red like Prestone.
 
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Originally Posted by StevieC
If running the full 10 years I would either do a flush or a series of spill/fills. But what I was getting at is if you have the time then run the coolant to 1/2 it's life span and drain 1/2 the coolant, it's easy, no fuss, no mess and has always worked well in my experiences to not require flushes ever because the fluid is always clean in the system and protecting well. The main thing is you are doing it before it's really ugly, or doing it at all! grin2
That is a good idea StevieC, Ty
 
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To the OP as I too am a fan of RMI-25 as I started using in last year in some of our vehicles and from my experience at least with a 96 Ford Taurus I did see much cooler temperature readings than what I was previously seeing before it was added. I now add it after I do a radiator flush when refilling with radiator fluid.
 
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Originally Posted by mctmatt
To the OP as I too am a fan of RMI-25 as I started using in last year in some of our vehicles and from my experience at least with a 96 Ford Taurus I did see much cooler temperature readings than what I was previously seeing before it was added. I now add it after I do a radiator flush when refilling with radiator fluid.
Such claims are a complete mystery to me. The thermostat controls coolant temperature, how can an additive change the setpoint of the thermostat?
 
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I found out about RMI-25 on this forum a number of years ago. I've been adding 4oz to my coolant every 15,000 miles and never plan to change it.
 
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Originally Posted by kschachn
... Such claims are a complete mystery to me. The thermostat controls coolant temperature, how can an additive change the setpoint of the thermostat?
I agree, mostly. The only hypothetically possible way I can imagine would be if the engine is overheating due to gunk in the radiator, which is then stripped out by the additive.
 
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Originally Posted by CR94
Originally Posted by kschachn
... Such claims are a complete mystery to me. The thermostat controls coolant temperature, how can an additive change the setpoint of the thermostat?
I agree, mostly. The only hypothetically possible way I can imagine would be if the engine is overheating due to gunk in the radiator, which is then stripped out by the additive.
This could exactly explain what occurred with my Taurus , or it help to dislodge an air bubble or gave the water pump some extra lubrication to help it perform better . Prior to using it my temp was running between 212 to as high as 230 per by scanner . Once I added it then it began to go lower and now runs from 195 to 205 . I am no expert in any of these matters so the RMI and temp change could be just a coincident but I am going to continue to use it.
 
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Perhaps the cleaning, but there's no way it helped to dislodge an air bubble nor did it lubricate the water pump. Water pump bearings are protected from the coolant by seals, once those seals are breached and allow coolant to enter into the bearing the bearings fail in short order. But I agree that if your cooling system was neglected to the point of always operating with the thermostat wide-open (out of control), then the additive may have cleaned it up sufficiently to allow the thermostat to partially close.
 
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