toyota 2AR-FE best oil to use in HOT weather?

If you look back when the engine originally came out it took 5w30 and even 10w30. There were almost no changes to this engine up til 2017, with minor changes mostly being rings and emission stuff.
Well that’s the thing, has this engine changed since 2006/2007, and if so, how? I’ve never really been able to get that answer. Not as far as measurements, tolerances, internal differences ,etc. I know it did at one point require 5W30 as it’s primary oil...not sure when it switched to 0W20. I’m not sure if there’s been piston design changes since then, or changes to the VVTi, or anything else.

Either way, I’m sure I’ll be ok with 5W30 for now. But I’ve got to say that chart you attached...makes me want to go to Mobil1 0W40 now.🤣🤣
 
hey all picked up a 2015 rav 4 with a 2.5 engine, i believe its called the 2ar-fe. It comes posted to use a 0w20 but i assume we can run thicker
i live down south so its always 95++ fahrenheit outside.

the vehicle has 100k miles on it rn

i assume it has seen 0w20 its whole life

is 5w30 a safe bet cuz of the heat? we never get a winter or cold weather here so i doubt it would be an issue?

but i read something about some vvt issue or something with the 2AR-FE if the oil is too thick but i doubt that should be a problem

curious what people would recommend! or just stick with the 'thickest' 0w20 i can find?
Don’t over think it. If it makes you feel better run a 0W20 HM oil. I run 0W20 all day long in my wife’s 19 DI Pilot.
 
That's not data, it is a testimonial. And whether it is entirely true has not been established.

And even if it were "real world data" that is something that for the most part is an illusion. It is very difficult and very expensive to obtain statistically significant real world data and is rarely ever done.
Ok let’s say they are lying, look around. How long have 20 grade oils been in use? How many engine failures are we seeing? That is real world data. It’s not like the motoring public are driving around secretly running 30 grade+ in their vehicles requiring 20 grade in some grand conspiracy. You would have my attention if you showed me all the engine failures from running “thinner” oils, but no one can do that.
 
Ok let’s say they are lying, look around. How long have 20 grade oils been in use? How many engine failures are we seeing? That is real world data. It’s not like the motoring public are driving around secretly running 30 grade+ in their vehicles requiring 20 grade in some grand conspiracy. You would have my attention if you showed me all the engine failures from running “thinner” oils, but no one can do that.
Nevertheless it’s not data. But this is a common misconception on the site.
 
Yeah it’s is not real world data…

Real world experience yes…

Nothing wrong with that..

Data needs real fine measurements and real weight of parts before and after running to extremely exacting numbers. Data with clearly defined limits and range of acceptable results.

It’s like taking blood … and saying yep it’s blood and it’s red.

When the data you really want and need is the persons potassium level say it’s 3.3 and sodium level annd it’s 147 and blood glucose and say it’s 209 fasting.

We know the expected ranges for those … potassium 3.5 to 5.0 and sodium and 135- 145 and fasting glucose should be 70-120… Same thing here.
 
Well that’s the thing, has this engine changed since 2006/2007, and if so, how? I’ve never really been able to get that answer. Not as far as measurements, tolerances, internal differences ,etc. I know it did at one point require 5W30 as it’s primary oil...not sure when it switched to 0W20. I’m not sure if there’s been piston design changes since then, or changes to the VVTi, or anything else.

Either way, I’m sure I’ll be ok with 5W30 for now. But I’ve got to say that chart you attached...makes me want to go to Mobil1 0W40 now.🤣🤣
The number one concern would be making sure you have the right amount of oil in it at all times. Especially if it burns any oil (personally didn't have oil burning issues on the 2AR but depending on its condition it can happen). Lack of oil on the 2AR and 2GR will make the VVTI gear/system fail as it requires oil pressure. I think that going heavy doesn't hurt. 0w40 sounds completely fine.
 
It gets a whole lot hotter inside your engine than the 95° outside. Run the 0W-20


I think you knew the answer anyway but decided to start another thread.
 
It’s a Toyota, it doesn’t really matter. Use what you want and change it somewhat regularly and it will still go 300k whether you want it to or not.
 
It gets a whole lot hotter inside your engine than the 95° outside. Run the 0W-20


I think you knew the answer anyway but decided to start another thread.
sorry i got confused because over the years it felt liek people in cold weather would run 0w oils and the hotter the places could run 5w or 10w so i got confused with what i thought i learned since it all changed no that people brought up the truth of the thermostat.
 
sorry i got confused because over the years it felt liek people in cold weather would run 0w oils and the hotter the places could run 5w or 10w so i got confused with what i thought i learned since it all changed no that people brought up the truth of the thermostat.


That’s a different subject. The winter rating (W) refers to the pump ability of the oil. So yes, if you live where temps get well below zero then a 0W-XX would be prudent.

You don’t have to change oils based on the winter rating. I run 0W-20 year round and have traveled in 100° plus temperatures. Go with the last number which is the grade. In your case a 20 grade.
 
That’s a different subject. The winter rating (W) refers to the pump ability of the oil. So yes, if you live where temps get well below zero then a 0W-XX would be prudent.

You don’t have to change oils based on the winter rating. I run 0W-20 year round and have traveled in 100° plus temperatures. Go with the last number which is the grade. In your case a 20 grade.
ty! sorry to beat a dead horse but if my year round temp is always going to be warm, isnt it a no brainer to run a 5w30? or is '0" always 'better? i thought i read 5w30 would shear less then a 0w30 since the two numbers are closer ?
 
ty! sorry to beat a dead horse but if my year round temp is always going to be warm, isnt it a no brainer to run a 5w30? or is '0" always 'better? i thought i read 5w30 would shear less then a 0w30 since the two numbers are closer ?

If you want to run a 30 grade then a 5W-30 will be fine for your temperature. It’s cheaper as well versus a 0W-30.
 
I have the same engine. Last summer I made a 6500-mile trip across the country using M1 EP 5W-30. I went through miles and miles of 100-deg and higher temps while going through the Rockies. I was glad to be using a more robust oil. I also use that grade all year, while short-tripping and making long drives. I'd suggest seriously considering a good-quality 5W-30.
Why would I switch from Mobil 1 to High Performance Lubricants?
 
We have a 2015 Rav4 with the 2.5. Other than the annoying cold start timing chain rattle that we’ve been assured is “normal”, it is a great car. We just run 0w-20 and occasionally 5w-20 if I find it cheap.
 
We have a 2015 Rav4 with the 2.5. Other than the annoying cold start timing chain rattle that we’ve been assured is “normal”, it is a great car. We just run 0w-20 and occasionally 5w-20 if I find it cheap.
have u tried thicker ever to see if it stops the rattle? and any differences u noticed between 5w and 0w or both the same?
 
Engine temperature is controlled by the thermostat. Doesn't matter if its 50° 95° or 120° outside. Thicker oil won't make it run cooler.
If outside or "ambient" temperatures have no influence on anything, than why are the engine temps higher and the fan runs more aggressive in summer than winter? Also why does my phone get much warmer in summer than winter when in use?
 
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