Yup. Use a high temperature anti-seize. Good point for those that might not be familiar with this, because it's not a joyous occasion when your threads come out with the spark plug the next time you try to change them. ALWAYS use anti-seize (or grease is OK for low temps) on aluminum threads.quote:
Originally posted by keval85:
Just my 2cents but when ever I put spark plugs in a aluminum head I always coat the threads with graphite anti-seize,believe me it will make your life alot easier next time.As for the torque I agree with JAKEBRAKE 1/8 past snug........keval85
You don't need a really high end torque wrench, just a couple that are decent quality and cover the ranges you need. I think my little 3/8" drive is 10-250lb-in, while my 1/2" drive is 10-250lb-ft. They're both Mastercraft Pro series, and were both under $100 each.quote:
Originally posted by acranox:
Unless you own a really high end torque wrench, it might not be that accurate.
For example, I have a Husky wrench, 10-100lb-ft. But the specs say something like it's accurate to within about 1 lb-ft, but at the ends of the range, it's like +/- 3 lb-ft.
Good advice. I'm going to change in this week-endquote:
Originally posted by Drew99GT:
Why is this so hard for people? If it is a gasket seat plug, 1/8 turn past hand tight is not nearly enough to crush the gasket. Just put the plug in by hand, thread it in until it doesn't turn any more. Hook up your ratchet and tighten it lightly until it won't turn any more with light to moderate force. That way, you know that the gasket is crushed all the way and the plug can then remove heat from the combustion chamber. You can easily feel this procedure when installing plugs. No torque wrench, no turn angle BS to mess with.
from what i have been taught you should use the lower or upper 10% of the torque wrenches settings. if you have ever dropped your torque wrench it is out of calibration (if you dropped a micrometer would you think it is still accurate?)quote:
But you have to use a little discretion. Unless you own a really high end torque wrench, it might not be that accurate.
For example, I have a Husky wrench, 10-100lb-ft. But the specs say something like it's accurate to within about 1 lb-ft, but at the ends of the range, it's like +/- 3 lb-ft. So Basically, setting it at 13, could give me 10-16.
You should definitely use it, but you could also verify whether the torque specification is for dry or lubricated threads. I've always done them with anti-seize. Maybe I'm overtorquing them? It probably wouldn't matter since it's such low torque given the thread size though. I've never had any problems, but it's something I'll check for next time I'm doing plugs.quote:
Originally posted by sxg6:
suprised so many people here recommend anti seize. i know a lot of people that dont use it because it acts as a lubricant and can cause you to over-torque the plugs. i dont know whether or not to use it next time i change mine
The other concern with it is that you are placing it between the plug and the head, and it will interfere with heat transfer away from the plug.quote:
Originally posted by sxg6:
suprised so many people here recommend anti seize. ..... can cause you to over-torque the plugs.
-quote:
Originally posted by dkcase:
snip...
I have always used it and always will. Almost any fastener you may ever want to loosen should get anti-sieze. snip...