To change or not to change?

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Originally Posted by jrod102
I have worked in the automotive business since I was a kid. Didn't use Fram 30 odd years ago not gonna start now when theres other options. I'll stay under my rock.



It alright. Fram is good but there are other options. The more I think about it you can extract a quart of oil with a hand pump every 5K and change your filter every 10K replace your PCMO and your engine will be good.

Or you can just use synlube.

I'm joking about synlube.
 
"Or use a good quality synthetic oil and a quality oil filter, and work your way up from 6 or 8,000 miles using an oil analysis to make sure you aren't over-extending."
Did you happen to read my very first post? I already use Amsoil signature series 5w or 10w30 and a Amsoil EA023 and do a full OCI @ 10000m. I have sent my oil to Blackstone a few times.
 
How much oil does your car use in 1000 miles? If it doesn't burn much, I don't see how it's cost effective and safe to keep changing filters and topping off the filter's 1/2 qt every 2.5k miles, even amsoil. To me, I think that's too little new oil. At that rate, since your car take 7 quarts, it's like going 35K between full oil changes. If your car burns 1/2-1 qt per 1k miles, then it'd be convenient to just top off every 2.5-3k miles and replace with a budget-line Wix filter.
 
"At that rate, since your car take 7 quarts, it's like going 35K between full oil changes." Chevy 4.3L vortec 4wd, takes 4.5qts not 7. It I'll lose about a full quart with what leaks out and whats in the filter.
 
My apologies, I googled the capacity for trailblazer, not the blazer.

If it was my car... a new basic filter and one full quart of new amsoil oil every 2.5K miles, I'd probably do it if I absolutely refuse to do a full oil change again.

1 qt per 2.5K miles would mean 4.5 qts would do 11.3K miles, I think that's doable. Right?
 
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Whats the problem? Just add oil as needed to keep it at the"full" level and change your good quality oil filter every 10, 000 miles. This is not eye surgery...
 
Originally Posted by jrod102
The logic is: quit doing oil changes. Changing the filter and topping off @ 2500, 3000, 5000 etc, Amsoil lasts longer than that and at those filter change intervals your always adding some fresh oil to the mix and getting rid of some used oil out of the mix. Adding fresh oil in every so often should keep the TBN good.


I get the topping off part. Just don't understand the need to toss a perfectly good filter. Just drain a few quarts and add new oil. I have a car that uses a quart every 1200 miles. So I keep adding then every 10k, I do a full change (could probably do just a filter I suppose).
 
I was an Amsoil EAO/EAK filter user and now use Fram Ultra because it's a lot less expensive and provides the same filtration and flow. I wouldn't throw my money away on the Amsoil filters any longer and I really like the Amsoil brand because of my experiences with it. I have also confirmed with Fram that the Ultra has double the flow rate than the OE requires for my application.

On top of that Fram makes and sells more filters than anyone and also makes filters for some vehicle manufacturers under their brand name so if the brand was really an orange can of death they wouldn't be around any longer or carried by huge retailers like Wal-Mart. Think of the lawsuits...
wink.gif


You can also run the Amsoil filter for multiple changes no problem if you want to stick with it at the higher price. Especially the EAO filters which are 25,000 mile rated.

Because your blazer is easy on oil you are a prime candidate for extended drain intervals which would make the Amsoil lower cost per mile than changing more frequently with some other oil that can't last as long. I have 2 vehicles in our family on yearly changes and they go about 18,000 miles (30,000km) per change. One is a Caravan and the other is a CRV.
 
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when amsoil was KNOWN to be PAO i changed @ 10 thou + a filter @ 5 thou.now that Scamsoil just mets a spec + says NOT what its base oil is i use Mobil I @ half the cost $$$$
 
They are still PAO in their SS line You might want to check your facts before calling them Scamsoil. Please provide proof of your claims (Which you can't)

Second, M1 uses Group III to some degree in ALL their oils. BUT WHO CARES. It's real world performance that counts and M1 and Amsoil have both been uses in more engines than you can count and both have great success stories of engines that have accumulated many miles running it.

You really do sound like a Moron running around with your comments.
wink.gif


Originally Posted by benjy
when amsoil was KNOWN to be PAO i changed @ 10 thou + a filter @ 5 thou.now that Scamsoil just mets a spec + says NOT what its base oil is i use Mobil I @ half the cost $$$$
 
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Originally Posted by ruhroh

If it was my car... a new basic filter and one full quart of new amsoil oil every 2.5K miles, I'd probably do it if I absolutely refuse to do a full oil change again.

1 qt per 2.5K miles would mean 4.5 qts would do 11.3K miles, I think that's doable. Right?


^^^ This scenario is COMPLETELY doable with any off-the-shelf API SN rated oil. It doesn't have to be amsoil at all.
 
"Just drain a few quarts and add new oil." Well since my 4.3L only holds 4.5 qts of oil if I "just drain a few quarts" I'd go ahead and do the whole oil change.
 
Originally Posted by Patman
Changing the oil filter every 2500 miles is a waste of money no matter how you look at it, totally unnecessary. Any of the premium oil filters can handle that full 10k interval easily.


+1
 
(CT8) If your not actually gaining anything/much from a complete change and can go xxxx miles and only drop the filter and add back what you lost why not? If I only spend about $10 for a qt of Amsoil (and thats about what I can get it for) and $5 for a good filter thats,... $15 we'll say @ 5000m. or I can spend $50 for oil and $15 (or more) for an EAO filter every 10000m at the oci I'm at now thats $65. If I do it myself. The difference is $30 every 10000m or $65 every 10000m. A savings of $35 and no labor. Maybe the question is what chance am I taking by not doing the complete change every 10000m like I have been?
 
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'Scamoil' or not I've used it many many years with zero trouble and will keep using Amsoil as long as I can get it locally. I'll shove a roll of toilet paper in a Mason jar an duct tape it to the block before I'd use a Fram anything. Nobody needs to sell me on Fram. I DON'T LIKE FRAM. Maybe everyone else does, and thats fine. I can get M1, Baldwin, Wix, AC Delco, Purolater, Bosch, Hastings, Napa (Wix), Fleetguard, Mann, Donaldson etc, etc. All I ever asked is what does anyone think of not doing a full oil change and only drop the filter at reasonable mileage and add back what was lost from doing so. Then I mentioned what oil and filter I use and my current OCI. This doesn't actually mean I'll do this, it's just something I was thinking about and wanted opinions on it.


Thank you for any and all help/opinions!!!!
 
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you mentioned that (1 qt) on page 2. I just noticed there were 3 pages! I just read the page 1
grin2.gif

Seems like you get about %25 out each time! Not bad.
 
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