Thinner Oil provides better Oil Seal

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Emanuel, there are multiple things going on here. The overhaul was prolly not the best that could be. Prolly good enough, but not torque plate honed, etc.

So the cylinders are not not 100% round after torquing the head bolts/studs down. The new rings were (?) plasma faced, chrome faced, plain iron rings?

Were the valve guides replaced with OEM style guides and seals?

Is there any indication of oily film in the intake (PCV system, etc.)?

Have you had a used oil analysis (UOA)? Is there any fuel dilution? What kind of fuel do you run (straight gasoline, ethanol blend, straight ethanol, etc.).

Can you fit an oversized oil filter? It will add media area and total oil system volume. Both good things.

Since it's a 4-qt system and you add 3 or 4 qts per oil change interval, it's very likely that it will easily go 6,000 miles/10,000 km between changes IF you can get good oil ... What oils are available in your area?

W/o a UOA, we don't know if it's ingesting too much fuel and has blow-by ... If the rings are not sealing well enough, all bets are off ...

W/o knowing which oils you are running, we can't really say how long it can go on one fill and top-ups ...
 
Originally Posted By: Rolla07
2.5 qts per 1k miles? Id go at least 10k miles before a full change. Your ad pack will always be fresh. Put on a good filter and keep going. Id also go to a thicker oil and a high mileage one as well. That might help slow the consumption and save you money on topping up.


A leak can be something as an old, dried out, or missing oil cap gasket. That's what it was on mine.

I also have a 4-quart system and upon replacing the source of my loss of oil, I may not even be using any.

If your gasket is fine, look to PCV system for error.
 
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Emanuel, there are multiple things going on here. The overhaul was prolly not the best that could be. Prolly good enough, but not torque plate honed, etc.

It wasn't the best rebuild, I know.

Originally Posted By: BrocLuno

The new rings were (?) plasma faced, chrome faced, plain iron rings?


No idea, they were Toyota OEM ones

Originally Posted By: BrocLuno

Were the valve guides replaced with OEM style guides and seals?

It has OEM Toyota valve seals but the valve guides are the ones that came from the factory


Originally Posted By: BrocLuno

Is there any indication of oily film in the intake (PCV system, etc.)?

I decided to clean the throttle body not so long ago and I saw a lot of oil on the inside of the intake manifold.

I have checked the PCV Valve, I am pretty sure it is the one that came from the factory with the car but it makes the clicking sound that a PCV should normally make when you shake it and it wasn't blocked. I put my mouth on the end of the valve cover of the PCV (after removing it from the car) and I could blow air without problems and when I tried to suck I felt a restriction, I mean it didn't seal perfectly but it did reduced the flow backwards. From my understanding this is how a healthy PCV should work.

Am I wrong? Could my PCV be worn even in this conditions?

Originally Posted By: BrocLuno

Have you had a used oil analysis (UOA)? Is there any fuel dilution? What kind of fuel do you run (straight gasoline, ethanol blend, straight ethanol, etc.).

A UOA is cost prohibitive here, I am not sure if our fuel has ethanol on it, what I know is that is has a high sulphur content (600 ppm if remember well)

Originally Posted By: BrocLuno

Can you fit an oversized oil filter? It will add media area and total oil system volume. Both good things.

I am currently using a 10 mm higher oil filter, the problem with oversized oil filter in this engine is that they are closer to the exhaust manifold, but I think I can use one with more diameter.

Originally Posted By: BrocLuno

Since it's a 4-qt system and you add 3 or 4 qts per oil change interval, it's very likely that it will easily go 6,000 miles/10,000 km between changes IF you can get good oil ... What oils are available in your area?

20w50 & 15w40 API SL & SM Rated are the more common here, there are also HDEO 15w40 CI4 rated and sometimes I can get Motorcraft HDEO 15w40 CJ4 Rated for cheap.

I can also find 5w30, 5w40 & 10w30 Synthetic Oils one has VW 502/505, BMW Long life 01, API SM Ratings and the other one has API SN Rating. I can buy them even cheaper than the dino oils because people here is used to use 20w50 so they are scared of 5w40 oils. I haven't began to use this oils because the engine has used 20w50 98% of its life so I'm scared that it wouldn't like the 5w40. The KV100C of the 20w50 is 18 CST and the one from the 5w40 is 13.5 CST, I really don't know if and engine that has always used thick oil woukd like this 5w40.

I was planning to use it, and my plan was to try 15w40 first and see how the engine reacted. I have noticed an 20% increase in oil consumption changing from 20w50 to 15w40. I think that oil consumption increase isn't entirely related to the thinner oil, I have been doing a lot more short trip driving and I didn't measure the oil consumption as carefully as I'm doing now. But I'm leaning more towards coming back to 20w50 than to use 5w40 even considering that it is a great oil judging by the ratings and that I can buy it cheaper.

Should I give the 5w40 a try?
What is preferable in a oil burner? Use a excellent oil or use one that reduces Oil Consumption?


There is also a myth in my country that if you switch from dino to synthetic your oil pump screen tube will become stuck because the reaction of the dino and the synthetic oil will cause sludge that will block the oil flow. I don't think that is true, even the synthetic oil bottle says you can mix it with dino oil without problems. And I put that synthetic on a uncle 2012 Corolla with 150k miles that had always used and Synthetic Blend 15w40 SM Rated and there weren't any problems in 2000 miles. Even when logically I know that myth isn't true, it does scares me.

Originally Posted By: BrocLuno

W/o knowing which oils you are running, we can't really say how long it can go on one fill and top-ups ...


I'm gonna save 26% on oil expenses if I follow my 3k filter and 6k oil drain intervals. I think that the piece of mind is more valuable for me than saving 26%
 
I recently calculated my oil consumption with excel and realized that my previous calculations were wrong, my engine is only burning a 1 qt every 1300 miles (0.75 qts every 1k miles).

This means that the oil consumption is the same that with the 20w50 I used to use, so I'm gonna keep using HDEO 15w40 and 3k miles OCI because to replace the entire sump based on the consumption I would have to cover 5k miles and I don't feel confident about doing that without an UOA
 
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