Thinking Too Much, Endless Possibilities

[mightymousetech]

Originally Posted By: Red91

A member on the previous page mentioned just going to 10K on the oil and filter. That honestly seems more reasonable.


I would not say it is reasonable, but it is better than going 20k.

 

[Linctex]

Originally Posted By: Red91

Oil: SJ Kendall GT-1 30wt


I read over this part - where are you getting this SJ oil?

No more than 4k-5K on the SJ oil.
Or save it for the older vehicles... modern oils are easy to come by for cheap with clearance sales and rebates.

Harvest King FULL SYNTHETIC is only $2.28 a quart at Atwoods right now.
Mix it 50/50 with your Kendall SJ oil and you can make 5K OCI with no sweat at all...

 

[PeterPolyol]

That engine and it's derivatives have, for decades, been routinely neglected without perfectly timed OCIs, and mostly in an era when conventional engine oil was pure garbage. Some examples of such would have been happy to have an oil change every 10k TBH. On something newer and running a little hotter like BMW M52 or Toyota MZ V6, sure, you'd be almost guaranteed heavy varnish and ring junk in short order, but those small blocks though... not really hard on oil IMO

 

[Red91]

That is what I was thinking.

 

[Red91]

I just checked the oil. After 3,300-3,500 miles it is just now starting to turn dark amber, and the level is just the slightest tad below the full mark. I do not understand why people freak out so over older spec oils. I think it should be good for at least 7,500 miles.

 

[Bottom_Feeder]

You think so just going by color?

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder
You think so just going by color?

Seems a popular criteria here, at least with some posters.

Personally I go by taste instead of color.

 

[mightymousetech]

Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: Bottom_Feeder
You think so just going by color?

Seems a popular criteria here, at least with some posters.

Personally I go by taste instead of color.


I change mine when it goes from vanilla to cherry flavour.

 

[BrocLuno]

Originally Posted By: 1JZ_E46
I'll never understand the fascination with extending drain intervals to ridiculous levels like this. Expect the oil to be the consistency of gear oil by the end of your test.


Well not quite... Read through this: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4445186/Amsoil_SS_5w-20,_62,000_miles,#Post4445186

Yeah, that's 62,000 miles on his same oil with top-up's. Yes, it's AmsOil, but no-one has proven to me that it's better than HD 30 for actual lubrication ... Has by-pass filtration and full flow filter in place. My take is the by-pass filtration is the key as it gets very small particulate contaminates out of the oil.

That Buick out to have room for a Frantz filter. Do a clean job on the by-pass plumbing and you can go to at least 15,000 before changing. But I'd do UOA's when I changed the full flow filter at the intermediate points ...

Buddy of mine added a Frantz to his Vette back in the day. Ran Sta-Lube 30 Racing Oil and only changed it every two years. This was in the 1970's when the oils were a joke by today's standards. All worked fine. But he had UOA's done even back then. A small block race motor was not any cheaper back then than it is now ...

If I were doing this scenario, I'd add a can of BG109 at each filter change and top-up. Would make me feel better, even if it did not re-create a full new add pak ...

I'd prolly run a 2 qt full flow filter if I were not running a by-pass. Any decent Napa Parts Store can look up a 2 qt interchange for you. If Fram makes one in Ultra that fits, it would be good because they have very good fine particle filtering. If no Fram Ultra, it would be a Napa Gold (WIX) or a Baldwin as the next best bet...

But, I personally would not do it unless I had by-pass filtration and was running an 0.050" orifice ... I'd want a lot of turn over on the by-pass system

 

[Red91]

Thank you Broc for your constructive and detailed post. Unfortunately the only way I could fit a 2 quart filter would be to remove the oil cooler, with seems counterproductive as the cooler helps extend oil life.

 

[BrocLuno]

Yeah, OK then run a Fram Ultra and maybe swap filters at 5K and oil at 10K... This is only because of the previous lack of maintenance. Fram Ultra's are pretty efficient, so they will catch a lot of what ever is coming loose ...

That Kendall oil will go 10K. It might be black. But I'll bet the price of the UOA the TBN will still be above 2. Run it that far and get a UOA. Then we'll all know for sure

If the oil is shot, I'll pay for your UOA

 

[Red91]

How reliable will the UOA be considering I've not established a trend? I ask because this is the first run of Kendall, the prior being Delo 400 30wt with a can of MoS2 and QS 20W-50 with a can of MoS2, from most recent backward. If I could push 10K then I would have enough Kendall GT-1 to last probably the next 4 to five years. Plus I have a change worth of Brad Penn Penngrade 1 30wt, followed by 2 gallons of CD/SJ Kendall Super D-3 30wt. I'll probably use Pronto filters for 5K at a time, as they are cheap, well built, and have a 96 or 97% efficiency rating.

Oh and I've not added any MoS2 this time, it's just straight Kendall.

 

[Linctex]

Originally Posted By: Red91
If I could push 10K then I would have enough Kendall GT-1 to last probably the next 4 to five years..


Sounds like a good plan. What kind of shape will the car be in, in 5 years?

 

[Linctex]

Originally Posted By: Red91
I'll probably use Pronto filters for 5K at a time, as they are cheap, well built, and have a 96 or 97% efficiency rating.


They may not even need to be changed that often.

Have you been cutting you old filters open?

 

[Red91]

No I have not. I've been using my free time to focus on writing and getting a little healthier honestly. I wouldn't mind cutting one open one day, but other things take up time for that endeavor.

As for the condition of the car, that is a good question. I use this station wagon like a truck, for in my opinion, it is. Just this morning I hauled a small load of gravel around filling up pot holes along the driveway. I've hauled push mowers around in it, all the lubricant products for my business have filled it in its entirety at least once, cylinder heads, flywheels, and other parts to and from the machine shop, tools, a bunch of recycling, a mower deck.....

I've used it to pull cars in and out of the shop.

Occasionally, it's actually empty.

I don't know if you've seen a picture of it on here before, but it isn't one of the absolute nicest examples on the road, and that is exactly the way I like it.

Everybody keeps saying, "great plan if it's something you don't care about", but I do care about it. It's worth more to me than it will ever be to somebody else. I just don't think it needs painstakingly obsessive maintenance.

I imagine in four or five years it will be just like it is now, not pretty, but reliable and still going.

 

[SatinSilver]

Lets see a picture of it if you don't mind.

 

[BrocLuno]

The UOA is just a first one, same as on any piece of machinery. There is no trend. But, since we are sampling at 10K, the things to look for are TBN and TAN (pay a bit extra for the TAN analysis).

I'll bet if you email Kendall, they will tell you what the baseline oil is supposed to be as far as constituents ... TAN can be assumed to be zero for any fresh oil.

There will be little or no shearing out of grade to be concerned with. The biggies we are looking for here are thickening out of grade (oxidation), and a TBN depletion or crossover where the TAN becomes more than the TBN (really the same thing). If the TBN is below 2, you can usually assume the TAN is starting to rise ...

What you don't want is an acidic oil eating bearing metal

 

[BrocLuno]

Doing all of this will make you much more knowledgeable about actual oil requirements and lifespan. Bet you will be moving to the longer OCI group after this ...

The thing is, all of us get nervous about oil after a year or about 7,500 miles. Yet, we know that ATF will go somewhere between 50~100K as long as you don't beat on the transmission. It's just 15 grade oil with a fancy ad pak ...

My old C-20 truck just went 5 years and about 10K on it's last oil change (Chevron Supreme 10w30). No issues. I kept an eye on it. Was still not black on a paper towel so I know it was not loaded with microscopic debris. Was not thick. Was not thin. Prolly could have gone longer, but I was getting ready to sell the truck, and buyers like to see nice amber oil when they pull a dip stick

Big Rigs go 20~25K on dino oil with simple bag filters. Yes, if you have fuel dilution or you get coolant in it, it has to go. But, if those systems are OK, it'll make it just fine

It's a small block (yes?). So just make sure the intake manifold bolts are snug to spec. If there is any weeping around the base, pull them, clean them on wire brush, dab of Black Ultra RTV in the hole AND on the threads and re-insert and torque. Then the only other way to get coolant in the oil is from an actual failed head gasket. And that won't happen if your coolant has not gone acidic ...

Make sure the PCV system is working right. You know the drill

 

[Linctex]

Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Yet, we know that ATF will go somewhere between 50~100K as long as you don't beat on the transmission. It's just 15 grade oil with a fancy ad pak ...


ATF doesn't have to deal with combustion by-products... which is where TAN comes from.

 

[Red91]

swap meet in May
December
December