They were more concerned with cold starting and not oil consumption. Quite different than an over-the-road trucker that had to add four quarts of oil at every fuel stop.All the ones I have built 15w40 has been used. Also used in a fire apparatus in New England.
They were more concerned with cold starting and not oil consumption. Quite different than an over-the-road trucker that had to add four quarts of oil at every fuel stop.
I have noticed most stationary units call for a straight SAE40 oil because the assumption is the unit is in a heated structure that is not to say a 15w40 wouldn't be just as good. I wouldn't sweat running either.I have read many articles on whether the proper oil for a 2 stroke Detroit Diesel is a straight weight 'i.e. SAE 30, 40 or 50 or a blended oil such as 15w 40 and there are arguments for both sides as to which one to use, however I just bought a Spartan Fire Truck with a Detroit 8v92TA DDEC engine and have included as a attachment the Specification chart from the manufacturer (Spartan Motors Inc) that lists the recommended oil as 15w40. Thoughts anyone?
That has nothing to do with the grade either mono or multi.Good point and thank you Ripcord. My other concern with a straight weight oil is they were developed before turbochargers were ever introduced, however the T1 Claims to be appropriate for both turbo and non turbo applications.
Who mentioned using an ND oil? That would be foolish.Thanks guys, I'm kinda on the fence either way I know we always ran Sae 30 in our 71 and 110 series Detroits years ago without any problems ever and at that time no one even mentioned 40wt, however oil technology has changed a lot since then and one has to wonder is newer better or is there no school like the old school? How about a compromise maybe run Sae 40wt normally and every 4th oil change use 15w40 to remove the deposits left by a non detergent oil? Or a straight weight oil with a some kind of a supplement? Lets take a final poll please finish your reply with a yea or nay on straight weight SAE40 regardless of brand and I will tally up and count the vote at the end.
Ya why would you even?Who mentioned using an ND oil? That would be foolish.
valid argument thanksMy assumption on the 15w40 recommendation is probably because the trucks could end up in cold climates and usually fire trucks are started and driven to the scene rapidly. It’s better to have a good flowing oil
Bigdig4, from 1978 until about Y2K I spent most of my work life dyno'ing, repairing or rebuilding 6V and 8V71's as well as 6V92's... basic Detroit recommendation for those engines was an SAE 30 or 40 monograde oil that carried Milspec 2104b... they didn't even care about the C rating... in the later years fleet I worked at switched over to 15w40 just because the Detroits were obsolete and the 4 stroke portion of the fleet became the majority and I dont remember us having any issues using 15w40 in the 2 stroke Detroit's. FWIW most of them use so much oil I suspect it doesn't matter.. if you are truly a 2 stroke Detroit guy you will enjoy this picture of history I still have in my toolbox and if you are new to them you will ask me what this stuff is. either way those are what I consider the best sounding diesel engines ever built..I have read many articles on whether the proper oil for a 2 stroke Detroit Diesel is a straight weight 'i.e. SAE 30, 40 or 50 or a blended oil such as 15w 40 and there are arguments for both sides as to which one to use, however I just bought a Spartan Fire Truck with a Detroit 8v92TA DDEC engine and have included as a attachment the Specification chart from the manufacturer (Spartan Motors Inc) that lists the recommended oil as 15w40. Thoughts anyone?
Every height gauge available in there!.... . if you are truly a 2 stroke Detroit guy you will enjoy this picture of history I still have in my toolbox....
We used to cut the ends off the valve/injector push rod tool and weld them back together into a L. You didn't have to swap the tools and you could flip it with one hand. I only had two injector height gauge tools. One for brown tags and another for all the others. Don't think I ever used the other injector gauge, just the one for brown tags....I still have in my toolbox and if you are new to them you will ask me what this stuff is. either way those are what I consider the best sounding diesel engines ever built..
for the most part I think I mostly used the 1.460 and 1.470... never even used them from the Kent Moore set in the picture.. used the other 2 I bought... I ran the dyno for a couple years, ended up setting and checking injecotrs and the rack every day..We used to cut the ends off the valve/injector push rod tool and weld them back together into a L. You didn't have to swap the tools and you could flip it with one hand. I only had two injector height gauge tools. One for brown tags and another for all the others. Don't think I ever used the other injector gauge, just the one for brown tags.
I have some special ones for the CAT 3406 (with Jakes) in the tool box too. And the timing pin.
really, you can set the injector height with a caliper, if that is all you have.. the governor you can just use a wrench and a pliers... that special kit I have there has never been used, either... its like new but 40 years old.My grandfather would get called back to the shop years after he retired to tune the Detroit's in the dump trucks since there wasn't anybody left who knew them. I'm pretty sure he didn't have those fancy tools, though, and had learned to do it by ear.
I was there when we divi'ed up his tools after he passed and I'm pretty sure if you couldn't buy it from Sears he didn't have it, lolreally, you can set the injector height with a caliper, if that is all you have.. the governor you can just use a wrench and a pliers... that special kit I have there has never been used, either... its like new but 40 years old.
Ha! So basically you're saying they leak everywhere.Detroits only leak oil from two places...
Pipe plugs and machined surfaces.